Shutter Lag for Canon Rebel?

Jonathan Wilson writes:

One thing I do miss is that with my G2 if it could not get a good
focus it would still take a photo, the 300D however wont take any
photo if it cannot focus or find a good focus lock.

Hi Jonathan,

I have both the G2 and 300D as well.

I've found the Rebel to be quite a shooting-priority camera. What
mode are you in when you find it won't take a photo due to lack of
focus lock? If it's green mode or one of the "creative zone" modes,
try P program mode instead.

Best Regards,
--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

Jonathan Wilson wrote in message . ..

One thing I do miss is that with my G2 if it could not get a good
focus it would still take a photo, the 300D however wont take any
photo if it cannot focus or find a good focus lock.

There have been a couple of times where I'd have prefered an out of
focus shot to no shot while shooting some trouble kicking of where the
police were involved afterwards as an aprocimate photo would have
given a record of the event, no photo gave none!

This might not apply to the situation that you've described, but
setting the lens to manual focus the camera will allow you to take
pictures without focus lock.

On 27 Sep 2004 14:34:34 -0500, (Todd H.) wrote:

Jonathan Wilson writes:

One thing I do miss is that with my G2 if it could not get a good
focus it would still take a photo, the 300D however wont take any
photo if it cannot focus or find a good focus lock.

Hi Jonathan,

I have both the G2 and 300D as well.

I've found the Rebel to be quite a shooting-priority camera. What
mode are you in when you find it won't take a photo due to lack of
focus lock? If it's green mode or one of the "creative zone" modes,
try P program mode instead.

Best Regards,

Of course, the lens can always be put on manual focus mode.

Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

On 27 Sep 2004 14:34:34 -0500, (Todd H.) wrote:

Jonathan Wilson writes:

One thing I do miss is that with my G2 if it could not get a good
focus it would still take a photo, the 300D however wont take any
photo if it cannot focus or find a good focus lock.

Hi Jonathan,

I have both the G2 and 300D as well.

I've found the Rebel to be quite a shooting-priority camera. What
mode are you in when you find it won't take a photo due to lack of
focus lock? If it's green mode or one of the "creative zone" modes,
try P program mode instead.

Best Regards,

Of course, the lens can always be put on manual focus mode.

Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

On 27 Sep 2004 14:34:34 -0500, (Todd H.) wrote:

Jonathan Wilson writes:

One thing I do miss is that with my G2 if it could not get a good
focus it would still take a photo, the 300D however wont take any
photo if it cannot focus or find a good focus lock.

Hi Jonathan,

I have both the G2 and 300D as well.

I've found the Rebel to be quite a shooting-priority camera. What
mode are you in when you find it won't take a photo due to lack of
focus lock? If it's green mode or one of the "creative zone" modes,
try P program mode instead.

The specific mode doesnt really make much difference... and it is not
really the cameras or the lenses fault. It usually happens in low
light conditions (1) so its more of the users fault (mine) and as
someone else suggested placing the lense in MF mode does obviously
remove the problem :-)

The difference however was more that with the g2 if it got as close as
it thought it could it would then fire, the 300D does require a "lock"
to take a photo (in non-manual mode) but often the spur of the moment
shot has gone/changed by the time I've found the switch, moved it, and
then manually focused.

(1) Often normally I am shooting with a fairly wide open apature for
shallow dof, or to increase the available light without increasing the
ISO. Also I realised with more thought that often I select the AF
focus point specifically instead of the "let the camera decide" mode,
and leave it set... since posting the original comments I am trying to
remember to put the "all points" back on just before I put my camera
away so it is ready and more "auto" when I need it.




Best Regards,

--
Jonathan Wilson.
www.somethingerotic.com

In article , Jonathan Wilson
writes

The big difference between the 300D and say the film equivilent is
that from standby or off it takes about 1/2 to 2 seconds to "power on"
and with the stand by mode you have to double press the shutter
button... once to kick it out of stand by, and the second press to
take the shot... it would have been nice if pressing the shutter
button pulled the camera out of standby and if the button was still
pressed, when it was fully out of stand by, it would focus and shoot
all in the one "long" press... I've got used to holding the camera
pointing down with a quick press then puting it to my eye and pressing
to take the shot, but it is a case of guessing something might happen
then going for it... in busyish situations i will half press the
shutter often to keep the camera live as I cannot be bothered to go
into the settings and change the power off depending on where and what
I wish to shoot.

It seems bizarre to me that you should spend so much time writing about
this issue, but than saying you can't be bothered to go into the menu to
change the awake time. From my experience in changing the time on my
10D, you could have done it in about 5 seconds, a fraction of the time
to type the above.

It is though good to see that Canon have improved the wake-up time
dramatically on the 20D. Not quite enough to be worth upgrading - but
nice to think that the next time I do upgrade the camera will wake up
instantly.

David
--
David Littlewood

In article , Jonathan Wilson
writes

The big difference between the 300D and say the film equivilent is
that from standby or off it takes about 1/2 to 2 seconds to "power on"
and with the stand by mode you have to double press the shutter
button... once to kick it out of stand by, and the second press to
take the shot... it would have been nice if pressing the shutter
button pulled the camera out of standby and if the button was still
pressed, when it was fully out of stand by, it would focus and shoot
all in the one "long" press... I've got used to holding the camera
pointing down with a quick press then puting it to my eye and pressing
to take the shot, but it is a case of guessing something might happen
then going for it... in busyish situations i will half press the
shutter often to keep the camera live as I cannot be bothered to go
into the settings and change the power off depending on where and what
I wish to shoot.

It seems bizarre to me that you should spend so much time writing about
this issue, but than saying you can't be bothered to go into the menu to
change the awake time. From my experience in changing the time on my
10D, you could have done it in about 5 seconds, a fraction of the time
to type the above.

It is though good to see that Canon have improved the wake-up time
dramatically on the 20D. Not quite enough to be worth upgrading - but
nice to think that the next time I do upgrade the camera will wake up
instantly.

David
--
David Littlewood

"Susan Phillips" wrote in message ...
Thank you so much. The Rebel is the camera that I really wanted, but,
didn't want to get caught up in the media hype since they are so popular
now. I have another question for those of you who own one. Is there a
significant shutter lag with this camera? I have a Sony Cybershot 3.3
megapixels and the shutter lag is very long. By the time I get the shot
taken, the action in the picture is over. This is very annoying when
you are photographing little children. Because they do not do the same
cute thing twice!

You need a DSLR to shoot kids digitally. Even then, you'll find
nothing is as fast as they are. The 300D is the 2nd slowest DSLR at
..142 secs, the Fuji S2 is the slowest. But all the affordable DSLRs
($8000) fall within 4/100th's of a sec from one another (except the
S2 which is out to lunch at .162 secs), so no big deal.