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#21
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Savageduck insisted
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 00:13:57 -0400, Tony Cooper
wrote: On Tue, 28 Jul 2015 19:05:05 -0700, John McWilliams wrote: On 7/28/15 PDT 5:41 AM, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 07:25:49 +0000, Bill W said: Okay, I was forced to post some air show photos: ;-) https://www.flickr.com/photos/489821...7654121813454/ Comments are welcome, but on the processing, of course. They're just planes in the sky, not much you can do with those as far as composition goes. Don't worry about that. It looks as though you were positioned near the end of the runway where all the planes were on final approach. You had some interesting captures. The shots of the "Buffs" B-52s reminded me of the days in the 60's and 70s, when at about 3 PM-4:30 PM everyday, there was an endless stream of B-52s overhead on the approach to Griffiss AFB returning from their SAC mission, Anyway, all work was done in LR, all photos were cropped, and all had at least some of the following adjustments: color temp, exposure, shadows, highlights, clarity, vibrance, saturation, and sharpening, and one photo used the haze removal slider (the one with the sun in the upper right corner). Those are the things I'm interested in comments on. I see after posting them that there is noise in the sky in some of them. I really need to look into that, but it might just be aggressive sharpening. I also failed to remove spots in a couple of the photos. I do need to learn to clean those lenses... There are some shots which have great potential; The F-16, The F-18, the F-86 (that has some highlight clipping which needs fixing), and The F-22. I am not clear on the ID of one of the older fighters, but I think it is either an F-80, or an F-94. Also the B-52 & B-1B are impressive, but need some dust spot clean up. The P-51 shot was spoilt by the sun flare. On to LR Post. Are these RAW or JPEG originals? Spots (dust spots anyway) are more likely to be on the sensor than the lens. It is worth learning how to clean the sensor if you are using a DSLR or a mirrorless system. Most of those can be addressed in post. Since you are using LR for post remember that all adjustments are non-destructive and reversable and can always be revisited and tweaked. Obviously, you are using a workflow you are comfortable with but here is a little input from me . In LR my RAW workflow goes something like this: 1: Set "Camera Calibration". 2: Check "Lens Correction" which includes correcting CA, zoomed in to 1:1 on contrast edges/fringes. 3: "Basic" panel: a: Set Black Point, with the cursor on the "Blacks" slider, hold down the alt/Option key, then adjust until you have one or two areas of black spots on the white background. b: Set White point, repeat the procedure above. c: Check highlights the same way sliding to the left until hot spots dissapear and clipping is dealt with. For the following the alt/Option key technique isn't used. d: Clarity, adjust for taste but don't over do. e: Shadows, sliding to right is going to open up some of the shadow detail without adjusting exposure. f: Exposure, tweak if needed. g: Contrast, Tweak if needed. h: WB (Temp, & Tint), Tweak if needed. 4: "Detail" a: Sharpening, again use the alt/Option key while moving the slider to the right to between 60-115. Then do the same with Radius, setting from 1.0-1.5. Finally with Masking hold down the alt/Option key and slide to the right, usually to 80-95 so that only the area needing sharpening is sharpened. b: Noise, pick an area of sky and zoom in to 1:1, hold down the alt/Option key and the image will apear grey. If you see any noise move the luminance slider to the right usually somewhere between 25-40. FINALLY crop to finish. Nice and clear. What happens if you crop first? In lightroom, the crop does not remove anything. It just makes what is outside the crop non-visible. It doesn't make any difference at what point in the post-processing you crop. It can do when you are setting black and white points. You only want to take into account only those parts of the image which are going to be in the final picture. -- Regards, Eric Stevens |
#22
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Savageduck insisted
On 28/07/2015 20:07, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-07-28 17:25:11 +0000, RJH said: On 28/07/2015 13:41, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 07:25:49 +0000, Bill W said: snip Spots (dust spots anyway) are more likely to be on the sensor than the lens. It is worth learning how to clean the sensor if you are using a DSLR or a mirrorless system. snip Please excuse the hijack - any top tips? My Canon 40D has some now irritating spots of muck somewhere - the sensor I think. Usually a blower such as a Giottos Rocket will move light dust. DO NOT USE CANNED AIR! The propellant will cause more problems than the dust. However, there is going to come a time when only a wet cleaning is going to remove persistant dust. Dust is going to be located in a position opposite to where you see it on your image. Dust spots in the upper left of your image will be on the bottom right of the sensor. The first thing to remember with wet cleaning and using PEC pad and/or swabs is not to economize. Only make a single wipe and don't reuse the swab, or all you will be doing is moving the contamination on the sensor. I have a few tools I use: Eclipse Optic Cleaning fluid Pre-moisened (with eclipse fluid) Swabs (buy the correct size for your sensor). Not necessary, but very helpful is some sort of luminated magifying viewer for checking the sensor. I use Photographic Solutions cleaning supplies. Their kits are useful and worth considering. http://photosol.com They do not sell direct so I use Micro-Tools. http://www.micro-tools.com/store/~/C-6/Digital-Camera-Cleaning-Supplies.aspx or 2filter.com http://www.2filter.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/Cleaning_Supplies.html Then to get a good idea of how to go about things this has always been a good site for reference. http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com I did all my sensor cleaning boot camp with my D70 which was a real dust magnet. I was thankful when the camera manufacturers implemented sensor cleaning. Now my cmeras are set to clean the sensor at power up. I use the Giottos blower around the camera/lens flange if I have shot in dusty conditions. I also use a small chamber brush and the Giottos inside the chamber without having the mirrior up to expose the sensor. Then If I have to change lenses in windy conditions I protect the change as much as I can. You can do this by trying to get indoors out of the wind, or finding some lee shelter, at worse turn your back to the wind to provide some sort of lee. For times wind is unavoidable having a change bag available is a good idea. An old pillow case makes a great change bag. Following all of that I find that the need to do a wet clean has been minimized and I find myself wet cleaning once every 8-18 months these days. Excellent - thanks (and to nospam) very much! -- Cheers, Rob |
#23
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Savageduck insisted (sensor,cleaning)
On 2015-07-29 05:31:19 +0000, RJH said:
On 28/07/2015 20:07, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 17:25:11 +0000, RJH said: On 28/07/2015 13:41, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 07:25:49 +0000, Bill W said: snip Spots (dust spots anyway) are more likely to be on the sensor than the lens. It is worth learning how to clean the sensor if you are using a DSLR or a mirrorless system. snip Please excuse the hijack - any top tips? My Canon 40D has some now irritating spots of muck somewhere - the sensor I think. Usually a blower such as a Giottos Rocket will move light dust. DO NOT USE CANNED AIR! The propellant will cause more problems than the dust. However, there is going to come a time when only a wet cleaning is going to remove persistant dust. Dust is going to be located in a position opposite to where you see it on your image. Dust spots in the upper left of your image will be on the bottom right of the sensor. The first thing to remember with wet cleaning and using PEC pad and/or swabs is not to economize. Only make a single wipe and don't reuse the swab, or all you will be doing is moving the contamination on the sensor. I have a few tools I use: Eclipse Optic Cleaning fluid Pre-moisened (with eclipse fluid) Swabs (buy the correct size for your sensor). Not necessary, but very helpful is some sort of luminated magifying viewer for checking the sensor. I use Photographic Solutions cleaning supplies. Their kits are useful and worth considering. http://photosol.com They do not sell direct so I use Micro-Tools. http://www.micro-tools.com/store/~/C-6/Digital-Camera-Cleaning-Supplies.aspx or 2filter.com http://www.2filter.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/Cleaning_Supplies.html Then to get a good idea of how to go about things this has always been a good site for reference. http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com I did all my sensor cleaning boot camp with my D70 which was a real dust magnet. I was thankful when the camera manufacturers implemented sensor cleaning. Now my cmeras are set to clean the sensor at power up. I use the Giottos blower around the camera/lens flange if I have shot in dusty conditions. I also use a small chamber brush and the Giottos inside the chamber without having the mirrior up to expose the sensor. Then If I have to change lenses in windy conditions I protect the change as much as I can. You can do this by trying to get indoors out of the wind, or finding some lee shelter, at worse turn your back to the wind to provide some sort of lee. For times wind is unavoidable having a change bag available is a good idea. An old pillow case makes a great change bag. Following all of that I find that the need to do a wet clean has been minimized and I find myself wet cleaning once every 8-18 months these days. Excellent - thanks (and to nospam) very much! I see that you are probably located in the UK. Micro-Tools has a site for European customers; https://www.micro-tools.com The UK vendor for Photosolutions appears to be "Just Ltd" in Swindon. www.cameraclean.co.uk -- Regards, Savageduck |
#24
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Savageduck insisted (sensor,cleaning)
On 2015-07-29 05:51:00 +0000, Savageduck said:
On 2015-07-29 05:31:19 +0000, RJH said: On 28/07/2015 20:07, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 17:25:11 +0000, RJH said: On 28/07/2015 13:41, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 07:25:49 +0000, Bill W said: snip Spots (dust spots anyway) are more likely to be on the sensor than the lens. It is worth learning how to clean the sensor if you are using a DSLR or a mirrorless system. snip Please excuse the hijack - any top tips? My Canon 40D has some now irritating spots of muck somewhere - the sensor I think. Usually a blower such as a Giottos Rocket will move light dust. DO NOT USE CANNED AIR! The propellant will cause more problems than the dust. However, there is going to come a time when only a wet cleaning is going to remove persistant dust. Dust is going to be located in a position opposite to where you see it on your image. Dust spots in the upper left of your image will be on the bottom right of the sensor. The first thing to remember with wet cleaning and using PEC pad and/or swabs is not to economize. Only make a single wipe and don't reuse the swab, or all you will be doing is moving the contamination on the sensor. I have a few tools I use: Eclipse Optic Cleaning fluid Pre-moisened (with eclipse fluid) Swabs (buy the correct size for your sensor). Not necessary, but very helpful is some sort of luminated magifying viewer for checking the sensor. I use Photographic Solutions cleaning supplies. Their kits are useful and worth considering. http://photosol.com They do not sell direct so I use Micro-Tools. http://www.micro-tools.com/store/~/C-6/Digital-Camera-Cleaning-Supplies.aspx or 2filter.com http://www.2filter.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/Cleaning_Supplies.html Then to get a good idea of how to go about things this has always been a good site for reference. http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com I did all my sensor cleaning boot camp with my D70 which was a real dust magnet. I was thankful when the camera manufacturers implemented sensor cleaning. Now my cmeras are set to clean the sensor at power up. I use the Giottos blower around the camera/lens flange if I have shot in dusty conditions. I also use a small chamber brush and the Giottos inside the chamber without having the mirrior up to expose the sensor. Then If I have to change lenses in windy conditions I protect the change as much as I can. You can do this by trying to get indoors out of the wind, or finding some lee shelter, at worse turn your back to the wind to provide some sort of lee. For times wind is unavoidable having a change bag available is a good idea. An old pillow case makes a great change bag. Following all of that I find that the need to do a wet clean has been minimized and I find myself wet cleaning once every 8-18 months these days. Excellent - thanks (and to nospam) very much! I see that you are probably located in the UK. Micro-Tools has a site for European customers; https://www.micro-tools.com The UK vendor for Photosolutions appears to be "Just Ltd" in Swindon. www.cameraclean.co.uk Try this; http://www.cameraclean.co.uk/products.php?cat=Sensor+Cleaning -- Regards, Savageduck |
#25
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Savageduck insisted (sensor,cleaning)
On 29/07/2015 06:53, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-07-29 05:51:00 +0000, Savageduck said: On 2015-07-29 05:31:19 +0000, RJH said: On 28/07/2015 20:07, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 17:25:11 +0000, RJH said: On 28/07/2015 13:41, Savageduck wrote: On 2015-07-28 07:25:49 +0000, Bill W said: snip Spots (dust spots anyway) are more likely to be on the sensor than the lens. It is worth learning how to clean the sensor if you are using a DSLR or a mirrorless system. snip Please excuse the hijack - any top tips? My Canon 40D has some now irritating spots of muck somewhere - the sensor I think. Usually a blower such as a Giottos Rocket will move light dust. DO NOT USE CANNED AIR! The propellant will cause more problems than the dust. However, there is going to come a time when only a wet cleaning is going to remove persistant dust. Dust is going to be located in a position opposite to where you see it on your image. Dust spots in the upper left of your image will be on the bottom right of the sensor. The first thing to remember with wet cleaning and using PEC pad and/or swabs is not to economize. Only make a single wipe and don't reuse the swab, or all you will be doing is moving the contamination on the sensor. I have a few tools I use: Eclipse Optic Cleaning fluid Pre-moisened (with eclipse fluid) Swabs (buy the correct size for your sensor). Not necessary, but very helpful is some sort of luminated magifying viewer for checking the sensor. I use Photographic Solutions cleaning supplies. Their kits are useful and worth considering. http://photosol.com They do not sell direct so I use Micro-Tools. http://www.micro-tools.com/store/~/C-6/Digital-Camera-Cleaning-Supplies.aspx or 2filter.com http://www.2filter.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/Cleaning_Supplies.html Then to get a good idea of how to go about things this has always been a good site for reference. http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com I did all my sensor cleaning boot camp with my D70 which was a real dust magnet. I was thankful when the camera manufacturers implemented sensor cleaning. Now my cmeras are set to clean the sensor at power up. I use the Giottos blower around the camera/lens flange if I have shot in dusty conditions. I also use a small chamber brush and the Giottos inside the chamber without having the mirrior up to expose the sensor. Then If I have to change lenses in windy conditions I protect the change as much as I can. You can do this by trying to get indoors out of the wind, or finding some lee shelter, at worse turn your back to the wind to provide some sort of lee. For times wind is unavoidable having a change bag available is a good idea. An old pillow case makes a great change bag. Following all of that I find that the need to do a wet clean has been minimized and I find myself wet cleaning once every 8-18 months these days. Excellent - thanks (and to nospam) very much! I see that you are probably located in the UK. Micro-Tools has a site for European customers; https://www.micro-tools.com The UK vendor for Photosolutions appears to be "Just Ltd" in Swindon. www.cameraclean.co.uk Try this; http://www.cameraclean.co.uk/products.php?cat=Sensor+Cleaning Many thanks. In fact (oddly - maybe it's the strong pound) the micro-tools German site is cheaper than the UK cameraclean site, even allowing for postage. So I've ordered a kit from Germany. -- Cheers, Rob |
#26
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Savageduck insisted
On 7/28/2015 10:22 PM, Bill W wrote:
On Tue, 28 Jul 2015 19:29:35 -0400, PeterN wrote: On 7/28/2015 3:25 AM, Bill W wrote: Okay, I was forced to post some air show photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/489821...7654121813454/ Comments are welcome, but on the processing, of course. They're just planes in the sky, not much you can do with those as far as composition goes. Anyway, all work was done in LR, all photos were cropped, and all had at least some of the following adjustments: color temp, exposure, shadows, highlights, clarity, vibrance, saturation, and sharpening, and one photo used the haze removal slider (the one with the sun in the upper right corner). Those are the things I'm interested in comments on. I see after posting them that there is noise in the sky in some of them. I really need to look into that, but it might just be aggressive sharpening. I also failed to remove spots in a couple of the photos. I do need to learn to clean those lenses... What look are you trying to achieve. Try playing with levels /curves on a separate layer. Judicious use will cause your image to really pop. http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/when-to-use-levels-or-curves-in-photoshop/ There are also some neat free tutorials on youtube. I wasn't trying to achieve any look, just hoping to get proper looking photos. They're just a bunch of planes flying around, but I was hoping that a couple of those images did pop, and thought at least a couple of them did. Many of them clearly didn't, but I at least wanted to get the WB, saturation, & exposure looking right. I do have PS, but I'm not using it much anymore, unless I need to do things that LR cannot do at all. I finally understand why people use LR. I used to just do what I needed to the raw file, and then save it as a tiff. Then one day I saw how large those tiff files really are - almost 10x the size of the original raw in some cases, and the light bulb went on. No more, unless absolutely necessary. These links are LR specific: http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=2117243&seqNum=9 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDq1JguOyv4 -- PeterN |
#27
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Savageduck insisted
On 7/28/2015 10:58 PM, Bill W wrote:
On Tue, 28 Jul 2015 18:25:30 -0700, Savageduck wrote: BTW: This is an extreme example of why AF-C and multi-AF point 3D tracking can work to save a capture. This was an 8 frame burst with a fast right to left pass which was completed in 2.25 seconds. I was doing my best to hold to center, but not everything goes to plan. This shows where the AF point was when lock was made. Without the 51 point AF matrix I would have been SOL. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1295663/FileChute/screenshot_238.jpg ...and here is the cropped final result after LR processing. https://db.tt/tEtHO81e What is 3D tracking? My problem at this air show location with all those focus points is that it will start focusing on the power lines, trees, mountains, clouds, etc. Does it mean that it tries to track objects that are at a consistent distance? My Pentax does not have that option, so it might be moot anyway. For my own bird shots I usually use one point focus. (left, right, or center.) At times when needed, I switch to five points. I think that fifty-one points can easily confuse the camera. For landscape I use hypoerfocal distance focusing, though sometimes I screw that up.) -- PeterN |
#28
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Savageduck insisted
On 7/28/2015 11:35 PM, nospam wrote:
In article , Bill W wrote: What is 3D tracking? My problem at this air show location with all those focus points is that it will start focusing on the power lines, trees, mountains, clouds, etc. Does it mean that it tries to track objects that are at a consistent distance? My Pentax does not have that option, so it might be moot anyway. http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And...i4lx/3d-focus- tracking.html An invaluable feature for sports, action and wildlife photography, 3D focus tracking, available in select Nikon D-SLRs, automatically shifts the focus point to follow the movement of the subject. With the shutter release pressed halfway, you'll see in the viewfinder the lens continuously maintain focus as the subject moves. However, maintaining focus doesn't guarantee a sharp image, as there is a short time lag between the release of the shutter and the capture of the picture. To solve this problem, the focus tracking system is a predictive system that uses special algorithms to forecast the position of the subject at the moment the image is captured. The prediction is based on a measurement of the subject's movement and speed. Okay, not exactly what I was thinking. If I use too many focus points, I too often end up focused on the wrong subject, but with too few, I lose the subject too easily after I lock onto it. It's just a matter of practice, I suppose. it depends on the focusing mode and given situation. no one mode is best in all cases, which is why there is more than one mode. here's a description of the various mode: https://photographylife.com/dslr-autofocus-modes-explained Yep! and as BillW stated, it takes practice. I don't think reading the manual in the field is very practical. -- PeterN |
#29
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Savageduck insisted
On 2015-07-29 19:14:47 +0000, PeterN said:
On 7/28/2015 10:58 PM, Bill W wrote: On Tue, 28 Jul 2015 18:25:30 -0700, Savageduck wrote: BTW: This is an extreme example of why AF-C and multi-AF point 3D tracking can work to save a capture. This was an 8 frame burst with a fast right to left pass which was completed in 2.25 seconds. I was doing my best to hold to center, but not everything goes to plan. This shows where the AF point was when lock was made. Without the 51 point AF matrix I would have been SOL. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1295663/FileChute/screenshot_238.jpg ...and here is the cropped final result after LR processing. https://db.tt/tEtHO81e What is 3D tracking? My problem at this air show location with all those focus points is that it will start focusing on the power lines, trees, mountains, clouds, etc. Does it mean that it tries to track objects that are at a consistent distance? My Pentax does not have that option, so it might be moot anyway. For my own bird shots I usually use one point focus. (left, right, or center.) At times when needed, I switch to five points. I think that fifty-one points can easily confuse the camera. The photographer is more likely to be confused than the camera. For fast moving targets (in my case planes, cars, and bikes, sometimes birds) AF-C together with 3D 51 Point Dynamic Area, and 3D-tracking has proven to be quite successful. The only failures have been due to me failing to hold at least one AF point on the target. I can suffer from pilot error as much as the next guy. For landscape I use hypoerfocal distance focusing, though sometimes I screw that up.) I think that this is where you replace "sometimes" with "mostly". -- Regards, Savageduck |
#30
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Savageduck insisted
On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 15:17:19 -0400, PeterN
wrote: On 7/28/2015 11:35 PM, nospam wrote: In article , Bill W wrote: What is 3D tracking? My problem at this air show location with all those focus points is that it will start focusing on the power lines, trees, mountains, clouds, etc. Does it mean that it tries to track objects that are at a consistent distance? My Pentax does not have that option, so it might be moot anyway. http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And...i4lx/3d-focus- tracking.html An invaluable feature for sports, action and wildlife photography, 3D focus tracking, available in select Nikon D-SLRs, automatically shifts the focus point to follow the movement of the subject. With the shutter release pressed halfway, you'll see in the viewfinder the lens continuously maintain focus as the subject moves. However, maintaining focus doesn't guarantee a sharp image, as there is a short time lag between the release of the shutter and the capture of the picture. To solve this problem, the focus tracking system is a predictive system that uses special algorithms to forecast the position of the subject at the moment the image is captured. The prediction is based on a measurement of the subject's movement and speed. Okay, not exactly what I was thinking. If I use too many focus points, I too often end up focused on the wrong subject, but with too few, I lose the subject too easily after I lock onto it. It's just a matter of practice, I suppose. it depends on the focusing mode and given situation. no one mode is best in all cases, which is why there is more than one mode. here's a description of the various mode: https://photographylife.com/dslr-autofocus-modes-explained Yep! and as BillW stated, it takes practice. I don't think reading the manual in the field is very practical. Yep, what happens with smallish objects is that I can't find them in the viewfinder quickly enough, so then the camera starts to focus on background or foreground objects, leaving the lens completely out of focus for the subject I'm looking for, which then makes it harder yet to find. It's mostly me, but also the fact that I'm not using the best equipment for that sort of thing. Luckily, when something is just a hobby, one doesn't need the best equipment for anything. I can live with missed shots. It's not like I'm letting the Pulitzer get away. |
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