Fujifilm B&W film question

ColynG=A9 wrote:
Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if
so, what is your impression?
What is the best developer to use with this film?


--
Colyn Goodson
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
http://www.colyngoodson.com

Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I use
Acutol, but D-76 should be very good.

ColynG=A9 wrote:
Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if
so, what is your impression?
What is the best developer to use with this film?


--
Colyn Goodson
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
http://www.colyngoodson.com

Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I use
Acutol, but D-76 should be very good.

Start at D-76 1:1 for about 8 minutes, @ 68F and see how you do. What
format are you using?


ColynG=A9 wrote:
On 20 Mar 2005 14:48:26 -0800, wrote:


Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and
if
so, what is your impression?
What is the best developer to use with this film?

Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I
use
Acutol, but D-76 should be very good.

D-76 has long been a favorite of mine as well as HC-110.

Thanks

--
Colyn Goodson
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
http://www.colyngoodson.com

Start at D-76 1:1 for about 8 minutes, @ 68F and see how you do. What
format are you using?


ColynG=A9 wrote:
On 20 Mar 2005 14:48:26 -0800, wrote:


Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and
if
so, what is your impression?
What is the best developer to use with this film?

Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I
use
Acutol, but D-76 should be very good.

D-76 has long been a favorite of mine as well as HC-110.

Thanks

--
Colyn Goodson
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
http://www.colyngoodson.com

In article ,
ColynG? wrote:

Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and if
so, what is your impression?
What is the best developer to use with this film?


I wrote an article for View Camera Magazine about 1 -1/2
years back, the developer depends on the negative size.

The choices I used were D23, PMK and HC-110. The film
is a very predictable film, good resolution and good grain
least for 4x5. Personally to start you might try using one
of the more dilute forms of HC110 -like E dilution....
and test for your personal EI of the film and cameras you use.

--
LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

I have just bought a roll of Fuji 100 Acros, and the suggested starting
point time for D-76 that Fuji give is 10.5 minutes when diluted 1+1, are you
using a condenser type enlarger to print with? I am not disputing your
suggested time and you obviously have a system of film processing that works
for you, its just that when I curtail the developing times given by the
film manufacturer, I tend to find that the tonality of my prints sometimes
look like cigar ash and have poor blacks and dirty looking highlights if the
film is radically pulled at the developing stage. Perhaps this is because I
am using a diffuse light source enlarger.
I would like to know which enlarger type, brand and model that you are
using.
I will probably start with the manufacturers time and then adjust it to suit
my own enlarger but your recommendation of 8 minutes has made me curious
from a point of view as to where I should start from.







wrote in message
oups.com...
Start at D-76 1:1 for about 8 minutes, @ 68F and see how you do. What
format are you using?


ColynG© wrote:
On 20 Mar 2005 14:48:26 -0800, wrote:


Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and
if
so, what is your impression?
What is the best developer to use with this film?

Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I
use
Acutol, but D-76 should be very good.

D-76 has long been a favorite of mine as well as HC-110.

Thanks

--
Colyn Goodson
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
http://www.colyngoodson.com

I have just bought a roll of Fuji 100 Acros, and the suggested starting
point time for D-76 that Fuji give is 10.5 minutes when diluted 1+1, are you
using a condenser type enlarger to print with? I am not disputing your
suggested time and you obviously have a system of film processing that works
for you, its just that when I curtail the developing times given by the
film manufacturer, I tend to find that the tonality of my prints sometimes
look like cigar ash and have poor blacks and dirty looking highlights if the
film is radically pulled at the developing stage. Perhaps this is because I
am using a diffuse light source enlarger.
I would like to know which enlarger type, brand and model that you are
using.
I will probably start with the manufacturers time and then adjust it to suit
my own enlarger but your recommendation of 8 minutes has made me curious
from a point of view as to where I should start from.







wrote in message
oups.com...
Start at D-76 1:1 for about 8 minutes, @ 68F and see how you do. What
format are you using?


ColynG© wrote:
On 20 Mar 2005 14:48:26 -0800, wrote:


Has anybody used Fuji's Neopan 100 Acros black and white film and
if
so, what is your impression?
What is the best developer to use with this film?

Yes, it is very good. Any good developer will work fine with it. I
use
Acutol, but D-76 should be very good.

D-76 has long been a favorite of mine as well as HC-110.

Thanks

--
Colyn Goodson
http://home.swbell.net/colyng
http://www.colyngoodson.com

In article ,
"Keith Tapscott" wrote:

I have just bought a roll of Fuji 100 Acros, and the suggested starting
point time for D-76 that Fuji give is 10.5 minutes when diluted 1+1, are you
using a condenser type enlarger to print with? I am not disputing your
suggested time and you obviously have a system of film processing that works
for you, its just that when I curtail the developing times given by the
film manufacturer, I tend to find that the tonality of my prints sometimes
look like cigar ash and have poor blacks and dirty looking highlights if the
film is radically pulled at the developing stage. Perhaps this is because I
am using a diffuse light source enlarger.
I would like to know which enlarger type, brand and model that you are
using.
I will probably start with the manufacturers time and then adjust it to suit
my own enlarger but your recommendation of 8 minutes has made me curious
from a point of view as to where I should start from.

The troll only knows 35mm film, he only uses a condenser head
and only advocates using grade 3 as a baseline contrast filtration.

Ignore him you"ll be better off in the long term.

In article ,
"Keith Tapscott" wrote:

I have just bought a roll of Fuji 100 Acros, and the suggested starting
point time for D-76 that Fuji give is 10.5 minutes when diluted 1+1, are you
using a condenser type enlarger to print with? I am not disputing your
suggested time and you obviously have a system of film processing that works
for you, its just that when I curtail the developing times given by the
film manufacturer, I tend to find that the tonality of my prints sometimes
look like cigar ash and have poor blacks and dirty looking highlights if the
film is radically pulled at the developing stage. Perhaps this is because I
am using a diffuse light source enlarger.
I would like to know which enlarger type, brand and model that you are
using.
I will probably start with the manufacturers time and then adjust it to suit
my own enlarger but your recommendation of 8 minutes has made me curious
from a point of view as to where I should start from.

The troll only knows 35mm film, he only uses a condenser head
and only advocates using grade 3 as a baseline contrast filtration.

Ignore him you"ll be better off in the long term.

"The troll only knows 35mm film, he only uses a condenser head
and only advocates using grade 3 as a baseline contrast filtration."

That's because by trial and error this has proved itself....