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Lighting of engraving on cylinder?



 
 
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  #11  
Old April 19th 04, 07:05 PM
William J. Slater
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Default Lighting of engraving on cylinder?

Didn't do the light tent yet. Still have to make it to the office
supply store but I did pick up a couple of cheap under the counter
floresent (sp?) lights. Also found a chunk of black velvet material.

I put the floresents down either side of the cylinder with a white
plastic storage tub top under & behind the lense. Also used a white
cardboard storage box top to hold over, behind, etc. and tried a few
shots with a 60mm macro and at one point used a 11mm extension ring on
the valve end. Btw, I also rubbed the metal with a light gun oil to
cut down the rust color.

Shot a roll of 200 Gold Max and dropped it in the mail today. I'm
keeping my fingers crosse but the lighting looked much better to my
eye, we'll see what the film thinks...... I should have the pictures
back by next week and link to a couple of the best results after I
scan them. Wish me luck!

Thanks again for all your support and help. I would be having a much
harder time sorting this out with out the your generous sharing of
your experiance and know how. I think you guys are getting me hooked
on this stuff! I'm now trying to figure out how to pick up some more
lenses, lights, etc. It's a sickness, isn't it? ;^D

Bill Slater
  #12  
Old May 1st 04, 09:34 PM
William J. Slater
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Default Lighting of engraving on cylinder?

Here is the link to my most recent results.

http://img48.photobucket.com/albums/v148/airgunr/

I did these without the lightbox and they came out pretty well. I'm
still going to try them with the light box but I have a couple of
questions.

Should the lights be inside or outside the box?

If outside should I still use the floresents or should I use another
kind of light and if so what kind?

Let me know what you think. I am surely doing much better with it
now. Thanks to one and all!

BTW, I moved the pictures to another folder so the previous link
probably won't work now......
  #13  
Old May 2nd 04, 02:17 PM
Nicholas O. Lindan
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Default Lighting of engraving on cylinder?

"William J. Slater" wrote

Here is the link to my most recent results.

http://img48.photobucket.com/albums/v148/airgunr/


You may want to try moving the lights away from the subject -
2-3 feet at a guess - and see if glare at the top and bottom
of the rifle tube decreases.

One other point: How do you position the AG relative to yourself
and a light to best _see_ the engraving. Try taking a picture
with the same positioning and lighting.


I did these without the lightbox


I think you mean 'light tent'. A lightbox is a thing like a doctor
uses for examining X-Rays.

Should the lights be inside or outside the [tent]?


Try both. You now know more about taking pictures of AG engraving
than anyone else in the group...

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
  #14  
Old May 3rd 04, 01:25 AM
William J. Slater
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Default Lighting of engraving on cylinder?

"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrotesnip

You may want to try moving the lights away from the subject -
2-3 feet at a guess - and see if glare at the top and bottom
of the rifle tube decreases.


I had the lights about 1+ feet away, I'll give it a try with them
farther.

One other point: How do you position the AG relative to yourself
and a light to best _see_ the engraving. Try taking a picture
with the same positioning and lighting.


Usually I am looking directly (90%) at the surface and with a light
kind of glancing off the section of the curve of the cylinder nearest
to me. I then rotate it around. I believe this is what you mean.


I think you mean 'light tent'. A lightbox is a thing like a doctor
uses for examining X-Rays.


You are right, I did mean a "Light Tent"..... ;^D


Should the lights be inside or outside the [tent]?


Try both. You now know more about taking pictures of AG engraving
than anyone else in the group...


Wow! I do think I'm getting much better at this, again, thanks to
everyone who has offered their help.

One thing that was interesting was I tried to take a couple of
pictures with the wife's digital camera. They did not come out at
all. I got some real weird jagged edges to any lines. Kind of like a
"stuttering" effect, possibly caused by the floresents and digital?
It sort of reminded me of what a TV or Computer screen does when you
try to video it.
  #15  
Old May 6th 04, 01:12 AM
Nicholas O. Lindan
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Default Lighting of engraving on cylinder?

"William J. Slater" wrote

I tried to take a couple of pictures with the wife's digital camera.
They did not come out at all. .... It sort of reminded me of what
a TV or Computer screen does when you try to video it.


Flourescents do flicker a lot at the power line frequency.

Precision photometry equipment takes readings over a 100mSec period -
6 cycles of 60 Hz power or 5 cycles a 50Hz power. This way the reading
starts and finishes at the same point on the AC power's waveform and the
AC component of the measurement disappears.

Any shutter speed that is multiple of 100 mSec will work: 1/10, 1/5th,
1/2, 1 ... second. Shooting at any of these speeds will remove all
flicker from the lights and also any exposure variation in conventional
photography due to firing the shutter at the brightest or darkest point
in the flicker cycle.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
  #16  
Old May 8th 04, 01:18 AM
William J. Slater
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Default Lighting of engraving on cylinder?

"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote:
Flourescents do flicker a lot at the power line frequency.

Precision photometry equipment takes readings over a 100mSec period -
6 cycles of 60 Hz power or 5 cycles a 50Hz power. This way the reading
starts and finishes at the same point on the AC power's waveform and the
AC component of the measurement disappears.

Any shutter speed that is multiple of 100 mSec will work: 1/10, 1/5th,
1/2, 1 ... second. Shooting at any of these speeds will remove all
flicker from the lights and also any exposure variation in conventional
photography due to firing the shutter at the brightest or darkest point
in the flicker cycle.


Very interesting, I did not know that but it is very usefull
information to have. I had the digital on automatic everything but I
can set it to Apature, Shutter or Manual (sort of) modes. I'm still
working on constructing a light tent but I will give the digital a try
again keeping the shutter speeds in mind. Thanks again, you folks
have been very good helping me learn.
  #17  
Old May 8th 04, 02:22 AM
Nicholas O. Lindan
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Default Lighting of engraving on cylinder?

"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote:

Precision photometry equipment takes readings over a 100mSec period -
6 cycles of 60 Hz power or 5 cycles a 50Hz power. This way the reading
starts and finishes at the same point on the AC power's waveform and the
AC component of the measurement disappears.

Any shutter speed that is multiple of 100 mSec will work: 1/10, 1/5th,
1/2, 1 ... second.


If you are in a 60Hz country so will shooting at:
1/60th 1 cycle
1/30 2 cycles
1/15 4
1/4 15

Folks with old Leicas and such can use:
1/20 3 cycles
1/10 6
1/5 12

And if your shutter is sticky and has odd actual speeds:
1/12 5 cycles
1/8.75124.. 7
1/7.5 8
1/6.66.. 9
1/6 10
1/5.45.. 11

People in 50Hz countries will have to figure a different set of shutter
speeds.

1/10th of a second is the fastest speed that works in both 50 and 60Hz
environments.


--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com

 




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