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#101
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"Tom Phillips" wrote in message
... Gregory Blank wrote: In article , Tom Phillips wrote: BTW, this is my last response. Enjoy it To everyone? Or just JJS? Sorry. I only momentarily had a relapse and replied to stafford. Don't know what got into me Tom cannot tolerate rational discourse. Leave him be. I don't killfile his posts because they serve so well for philosophy courses on aberrant thinking. He's the classic case. |
#102
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"Tom Phillips" wrote in message
... Gregory Blank wrote: In article , Tom Phillips wrote: BTW, this is my last response. Enjoy it To everyone? Or just JJS? Sorry. I only momentarily had a relapse and replied to stafford. Don't know what got into me Tom cannot tolerate rational discourse. Leave him be. I don't killfile his posts because they serve so well for philosophy courses on aberrant thinking. He's the classic case. |
#103
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"Tom Phillips" wrote in message
... Gregory Blank wrote: In article , Tom Phillips wrote: BTW, this is my last response. Enjoy it To everyone? Or just JJS? Sorry. I only momentarily had a relapse and replied to stafford. Don't know what got into me Tom cannot tolerate rational discourse. Leave him be. I don't killfile his posts because they serve so well for philosophy courses on aberrant thinking. He's the classic case. |
#104
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 12:37:09 -0600, Peter De Smidt
pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote: Matthew McGrattan wrote: I'll primarily be shooting 35mm and the negatives will mostly be scanned for web-use. snip I don't mind a bit of grain as long it has a nice 'look'. Hi Matt, In my limited experience, scanning BW film makes the grain of the film significantly more noticable than if the negative is printed normally. Hence you might want to stick with a fine-grained film and use D76 or Xtol as the developer. You might also experiment with developing somewhat less than for standard silver printing. Paul Butzi has some comments on this which you can read at www.butzi.net. Look under the 'articles' section. You might also consider Ilford XP2 Super film, which scans very well in my experience, plus at EI 200 it's very fine grained. I use XP-2 quite a bit, I also really like the Fuji Neopan 400CN which I've found to be slightly better than XP-2 [although i gather both are made by Ilford]. Both scan really nicely. The move to using more traditional rather than C-41 process films is partly for reasons of cost - I can buy a roll of traditional black and white film AND process it myself for about 50% of the cheapest processing I can get for the XP-2 and that doesn't include the cost of the XP-2 itself.[although the processing on the XP-2 would include 6x4 prints]. If I am shooting and just messing around experimenting then it's cheaper to develop myself and scan -- and if anything comes out well pay for a print for just that single image. Another reason for using non-C-41 film is that there's a much wider variety of speeds availabe -- from iso 25 all the way through to 3200. I still use the C-41 films a fair bit and if I am shooting a roll where I expect to have a lot of prints for family, or similar, then I'd just use XP2. Matt |
#105
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 12:37:09 -0600, Peter De Smidt
pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote: Matthew McGrattan wrote: I'll primarily be shooting 35mm and the negatives will mostly be scanned for web-use. snip I don't mind a bit of grain as long it has a nice 'look'. Hi Matt, In my limited experience, scanning BW film makes the grain of the film significantly more noticable than if the negative is printed normally. Hence you might want to stick with a fine-grained film and use D76 or Xtol as the developer. You might also experiment with developing somewhat less than for standard silver printing. Paul Butzi has some comments on this which you can read at www.butzi.net. Look under the 'articles' section. You might also consider Ilford XP2 Super film, which scans very well in my experience, plus at EI 200 it's very fine grained. I use XP-2 quite a bit, I also really like the Fuji Neopan 400CN which I've found to be slightly better than XP-2 [although i gather both are made by Ilford]. Both scan really nicely. The move to using more traditional rather than C-41 process films is partly for reasons of cost - I can buy a roll of traditional black and white film AND process it myself for about 50% of the cheapest processing I can get for the XP-2 and that doesn't include the cost of the XP-2 itself.[although the processing on the XP-2 would include 6x4 prints]. If I am shooting and just messing around experimenting then it's cheaper to develop myself and scan -- and if anything comes out well pay for a print for just that single image. Another reason for using non-C-41 film is that there's a much wider variety of speeds availabe -- from iso 25 all the way through to 3200. I still use the C-41 films a fair bit and if I am shooting a roll where I expect to have a lot of prints for family, or similar, then I'd just use XP2. Matt |
#106
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"Matthew McGrattan" wrote in message ... On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:05:56 -0500, Jean-David Beyer wrote: Matthew McGrattan wrote: I'm about to order some 100 asa film -- I usually shoot 400 asa or 50 asa films so I'm not that familiar with the various options at 100. Would people recommend Tmax 100 or Agfa APX at the same speed? I'll probably be using Rodinal initially but I'm open to other developer suggestions. Any other 100 asa brand that people like -- some of the smaller ones like Foma, Efke or Maco? You did say what size film you will be using. When I was shooting mostly 35mm, I was using mostly Tri-X, and found Rodinal too grainy for my taste. For a film like that, I found D-76d and HC-110 (dilution B) to be about the best. I'll largely be using 35mm although I do shoot 120. However, 120 I usually have processed by a lab rather than doing it myself. Matt If you do your own 35mm all you need for 120 is a suitable tank. There are many available used. I happen to prefer the stainless steel type but that is personal. If you look for old Nikor tanks make sure the lids fit the tanks and the caps fit the lids, they were sized individually. Rodinal is a useful developer but is grainier than most others. Both 100T-Max and APX-100 work well in D-76 diluted 1:1. T-Max films require closer control of development time, temperature, and agitation than non tabular grain films. For instance, to change contrast one paper grade requires about 33% change in development time for most films but only about 20% for T-Max films. Of course both temperature and agitation are equally more sensitive to variation. I think this is one reason people have trouble with these films. APX-100 has very nice tonal quality. Its a good film in 120 and was a favorite in sheet sizes until it was discontinued. Its hard to describe the difference in tonal rendition between films unless its pretty large. I suggest trying some of each. Because the ISO standard yields the minimum exposure for good shadow detail its safe to increase exposure somewhat. Most B&W films have great tollerance to overexposure. Also, the speed varies a little with the developer. The ISO standard allows any developer to be used in the measurements but requires it to be stated with the speed. This is often not done. Total variation among developers is not large. Microdol-X at full strength loses about 3/4 stop compared to D-76, Some Phenidone developers, notably the T-Max developers, Xtol, Microphen, increase speed by about 3/4 stop. At D-76 speeds there is usually enough latitude to accomodate these changes. Many films will give you a little better shadow detail with about a stop more exposure but the highlights may become a bit dense. Also, depending on the characteristic curve of the film the contrast index may vary a little with exposure. Sometimes increasing exposure has the effect of increasing contrast a bit. There are no general rules for this, you really have to test the film to see what it does. Other things can affect results. For instance, I've recently been evaluating Plus-X since someone asked me about it. I have one roll of very good negatives from a Rolleiflex 2.8E and another roll of not so good negatives from a Calumet roll holder used in a Super-D Graflex for some outdoor portraits. I haven't quite figured out what went wrong with the Graflex negatives. BTW, Plus-X seems to respond nicely to a No.8 (old Wratten K-2) filter outdoors. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#107
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 22:30:03 GMT, Gregory Blank wrote:
David N has been in my kill file so long I almost gladly have forgotten who the hell, he is :-D Same here. I have no patience for adult adolescents. John - http://www.puresilver.org "Are you planning on accepting the new definition of photography?" - Frank "Just as soon as humanity accepts a new definition of the term humanity." - John |
#108
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 22:30:03 GMT, Gregory Blank wrote:
David N has been in my kill file so long I almost gladly have forgotten who the hell, he is :-D Same here. I have no patience for adult adolescents. John - http://www.puresilver.org "Are you planning on accepting the new definition of photography?" - Frank "Just as soon as humanity accepts a new definition of the term humanity." - John |
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