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#1
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Agfa Viradon???????
Hi All,
Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to make it look like an old picture as it was taken on an old camera. The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed. The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10 minuets. After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to 1-25. After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the viradon went all "murky" Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried to tone in some sepia after but it wouldn't sepia either. Why????????? Thanks in advance |
#2
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Agfa Viradon???????
"polly filler" wrote in message o.uk... Hi All, Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to make it look like an old picture as it was taken on an old camera. The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed. The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10 minuets. After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to 1-25. After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the viradon went all "murky" Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried to tone in some sepia after but it wouldn't sepia either. Why????????? Thanks in advance Some papers don't tone very well but you should have gotten some color change. Two versions of Viradon were made: The older one was a combination of selenium and polysulfide similar to Kodak Polytoner and the later one was sulfide only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The polysulfide toner works very slowly unless heated. You might try heating the toner to about 120F. After toning the print should be treated in a bath of sodium sulfite to stop the toning and get rid of the yellow stain. I've found that Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent works fine. I think this has been discontinued but Ilford's hypo remover should work. I use the clearing agent at normal working strength. Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all densities at the same rate so will provide considerable image protection even when only partial toning has been done. It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when diluted or partly exhausted and if too weak can leave a peach-colored stain which is very difficult to remove. What kind of Sepia toner did you try? -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL |
#3
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Agfa Viradon???????
"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message ... "polly filler" wrote in message o.uk... Hi All, Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to make it look like an old picture as it was taken on an old camera. The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed. The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10 minuets. After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to 1-25. After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the viradon went all "murky" Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried to tone in some sepia after but it wouldn't sepia either. Why????????? Thanks in advance Some papers don't tone very well but you should have gotten some color change. Two versions of Viradon were made: The older one was a combination of selenium and polysulfide similar to Kodak Polytoner and the later one was sulfide only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The polysulfide toner works very slowly unless heated. You might try heating the toner to about 120F. After toning the print should be treated in a bath of sodium sulfite to stop the toning and get rid of the yellow stain. I've found that Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent works fine. I think this has been discontinued but Ilford's hypo remover should work. I use the clearing agent at normal working strength. Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all densities at the same rate so will provide considerable image protection even when only partial toning has been done. It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when diluted or partly exhausted and if too weak can leave a peach-colored stain which is very difficult to remove. What kind of Sepia toner did you try? -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL Hi many thanks for the reply, I used fotospeed sepia toner. I'll try it with my dishwarmer under the tray. |
#4
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Agfa Viradon???????
"polly filler" wrote in message news "Richard Knoppow" wrote in message ... "polly filler" wrote in message o.uk... Hi All, Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to make it look like an old picture as it was taken on an old camera. The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed. The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10 minuets. After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to 1-25. After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the viradon went all "murky" Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried to tone in some sepia after but it wouldn't sepia either. Why????????? Thanks in advance Some papers don't tone very well but you should have gotten some color change. Two versions of Viradon were made: The older one was a combination of selenium and polysulfide similar to Kodak Polytoner and the later one was sulfide only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The polysulfide toner works very slowly unless heated. You might try heating the toner to about 120F. After toning the print should be treated in a bath of sodium sulfite to stop the toning and get rid of the yellow stain. I've found that Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent works fine. I think this has been discontinued but Ilford's hypo remover should work. I use the clearing agent at normal working strength. Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all densities at the same rate so will provide considerable image protection even when only partial toning has been done. It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when diluted or partly exhausted and if too weak can leave a peach-colored stain which is very difficult to remove. What kind of Sepia toner did you try? -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL Hi many thanks for the reply, I used fotospeed sepia toner. I'll try it with my dishwarmer under the tray. There are several type of "sepia" toner. The one usually called this is a two step, bleach and redevelop, toner. Some newer papers are very hard to bleach. If this is the problem you are having you may have to try mixing your own toner. Kodak was selling Sepia Toner II specifically for newer papers but I think its been discontinued along with nearly all Kodak chemicals. Other sepia toners are one-step. The polysulfide type like Viradon, is one, others have to be mixed yourself. There are many variations of these but the formulas for Kodak and Ansco or AGFA are reliable. Google should find formulas or post here and I will send some. Note that all sulfiding toners smell from hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg odor) and are best used outdoors. -- -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL |
#5
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Agfa Viradon???????
"Richard Knoppow" wrote in message m... "polly filler" wrote in message news "Richard Knoppow" wrote in message ... "polly filler" wrote in message o.uk... Hi All, Have just tried Agfa Viradon to try and brown tone my photograph to make it look like an old picture as it was taken on an old camera. The paper used was Ilford multigrade 1V RC size 16" x 12" well washed. The instructions said dilute at 50 -1 and immerse print for 2 to 10 minuets. After 20 minuets nothing had happened so I increased the strenght to 1-25. After 45 minuets still nothing had happened to the print, but the viradon went all "murky" Could someone please explain why my print wouldn't tone, also I tried to tone in some sepia after but it wouldn't sepia either. Why????????? Thanks in advance Some papers don't tone very well but you should have gotten some color change. Two versions of Viradon were made: The older one was a combination of selenium and polysulfide similar to Kodak Polytoner and the later one was sulfide only similar to Kodak Brown Toner. The polysulfide toner works very slowly unless heated. You might try heating the toner to about 120F. After toning the print should be treated in a bath of sodium sulfite to stop the toning and get rid of the yellow stain. I've found that Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent works fine. I think this has been discontinued but Ilford's hypo remover should work. I use the clearing agent at normal working strength. Polysulfide toner has the virtue of toning all densities at the same rate so will provide considerable image protection even when only partial toning has been done. It has the peculiar property of toning _faster_ when diluted or partly exhausted and if too weak can leave a peach-colored stain which is very difficult to remove. What kind of Sepia toner did you try? -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL Hi many thanks for the reply, I used fotospeed sepia toner. I'll try it with my dishwarmer under the tray. There are several type of "sepia" toner. The one usually called this is a two step, bleach and redevelop, toner. Some newer papers are very hard to bleach. If this is the problem you are having you may have to try mixing your own toner. Kodak was selling Sepia Toner II specifically for newer papers but I think its been discontinued along with nearly all Kodak chemicals. Other sepia toners are one-step. The polysulfide type like Viradon, is one, others have to be mixed yourself. There are many variations of these but the formulas for Kodak and Ansco or AGFA are reliable. Google should find formulas or post here and I will send some. Note that all sulfiding toners smell from hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg odor) and are best used outdoors. -- -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL Many thanks for the info |
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