New High-End Canon Cameras Announced

In article , "Ritter 197" wrote:
Does nobody have anything new to say about this Canon camera?
Pictures taken with it? Detailed reviews.?
Availability in US?

What camera ?

Let me go down the page.....


"Ritter 197" wrote in message
...
No more interest here?

"Ritter 197" wrote in message
. ..
For some reason I cannot get there. If you did, then what does it tell
you about these 2 images?

"GMAN" wrote in message
...
In article , "Ritter 197"
wrote:
I did and I see NO summary under Properties. What do YOU see for those 2
images?


You have to save the full sized image, not the smaller web image. Let
the
picture load up full screen into your brwoser, then right click to save
image
to hard drive, then right click the image of the watch, select
PROPERTIES,
then SUMMARY, then ADVANCED.


Thats what i must have left off, go into the advanced button.










"GMAN" wrote in message
...
In article , "Ritter
197"
wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I see only 2 images there, they look OK but one
has
no idea at what speed. F-stop or ISO they were taken, or am I missing
something?



"dwight" wrote in message
...
"Ritter 197" wrote in message
. ..
Are there anywhere yet pictures taken with this new canon s10 is
???

There are two on the Canon UK website:



http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Prod...amera/image_sa
mples/samples_powershot_SX10_IS.asp

dwight
www.tfrog.com


Save the pictures to your hard drive, right click on the picture and
select
PROPERTIES, then select SUMMARY.


An SX10 ? I was looking at that camera on the favorite Imaging Resource page,
but am looking at different cameras like the D40 now. Guess the SX10
is not really available yet.

greg

I thought it is out in the Netherlands and the UK. Maybe I am wrong then.

"dwight" wrote in message
...
"Ritter 197" wrote in message
. ..
Does nobody have anything new to say about this Canon camera?
Pictures taken with it? Detailed reviews.?
Availability in US?

Again... the S10 isn't out yet. It's hard to post pictures of a camera
that hasn't hit the stores.

dwight
www.tfrog.com

"ben bradlee" wrote in message
...
"Ritter 197" wrote in message
. ..
Does nobody have anything new to say about this Canon camera?
Pictures taken with it? Detailed reviews.?
Availability in US?

Personally, I'm more interested in the new 5D Mk ii. That is supposed to
be to dealers some time late this year. B&H has December on its website.


Man, what a difference in PRICE ??? Thousands more dollars for your choice.
But go ahead, if you have it. (to pay for it I mean)

"dwight" wrote:


Again... the S10 isn't out yet. It's hard to post pictures of a camera that hasn't hit the stores.

Hi Dwight,

I bought my SX10IS last week at Best Buy, over the counter. The matched
the lowest mail order price and don't charge shipping. It exceeds my
expectations.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA - http://rhodyman.net

"Stephen Henning" wrote in message
news
"dwight" wrote:


Again... the S10 isn't out yet. It's hard to post pictures of a camera
that hasn't hit the stores.

Hi Dwight,

I bought my SX10IS last week at Best Buy, over the counter. The matched
the lowest mail order price and don't charge shipping. It exceeds my
expectations.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA - http://rhodyman.net

Congratulations. I'll expect your hands-on review with samples momentarily.
(And I see that, yes, B&H now lists it as available, too.)

Seriously... My S3 is still clicking, but this S10 is very attractive. I
need a solid excuse to upgrade! I'm particularly interested in the extreme
end of that 20X zoom, handheld. That's got to be dicey, even with IS. Today
would be a great day to try that out. Head on up to the top of the hill and
get a shot of Reading and the valley, would you?

As an aside, I bought three rhodos early this spring, popped them in the
ground. They flowered spectacularly, sprouted new growth, and today all
three are flat-out dead. Perhaps planting them along my pine walk was a bad
idea?

dwight
Philly überburbs
www.tfrog.com

dwight wrote:

As an aside, I bought three rhodos early this spring, popped them in the
ground. They flowered spectacularly, sprouted new growth, and today all
three are flat-out dead. Perhaps planting them along my pine walk was a
bad idea?

Probably root bound and never got any roots into the surrounding soil.

--
Paul Furman
www.baynatives.com

On 10/12/08 1:42 PMOct 12, "Paul Furman" wrote:

dwight wrote:

As an aside, I bought three rhodos early this spring, popped them in the
ground. They flowered spectacularly, sprouted new growth, and today all
three are flat-out dead. Perhaps planting them along my pine walk was a
bad idea?

Probably root bound and never got any roots into the surrounding soil.

Good diagnosis. It could have been caused by a couple of things - - either
the plants were grown too long in the same containers or the planting
location was not prepared adequately, or both. If the root ball is a mass of
intertwined roots when you take it out of the container, then you need to
break up the root ball and spread out the roots. You should dig a hole twice
the diameter of the container, loosen up the soil and add any need soil
amendments. I like to use sphagnum peat, but you might need other amendments
depending on your location and soil conditions. Azaleas and rhodos like
acidity soil so a walkway near pine trees is not a bad location.

BTW - there are plenty of gardening news groups. You might want to join one
or more of them.

"Bob Haar" wrote in message
...
On 10/12/08 1:42 PMOct 12, "Paul Furman" wrote:

dwight wrote:

As an aside, I bought three rhodos early this spring, popped them in the
ground. They flowered spectacularly, sprouted new growth, and today all
three are flat-out dead. Perhaps planting them along my pine walk was a
bad idea?

Probably root bound and never got any roots into the surrounding soil.

Good diagnosis. It could have been caused by a couple of things - - either
the plants were grown too long in the same containers or the planting
location was not prepared adequately, or both. If the root ball is a mass
of
intertwined roots when you take it out of the container, then you need to
break up the root ball and spread out the roots. You should dig a hole
twice
the diameter of the container, loosen up the soil and add any need soil
amendments. I like to use sphagnum peat, but you might need other
amendments
depending on your location and soil conditions. Azaleas and rhodos like
acidity soil so a walkway near pine trees is not a bad location.

BTW - there are plenty of gardening news groups. You might want to join
one
or more of them.

I did. But I agree that root strangulation is probably the problem. I'll
prepare the locations better next year and try again. I'd still like rhodos
there.

If it's a consideration, this was all documented with my digital cameras.

)

dwight
http://www.tfrog.com/garden/walk.htm

"Paul Furman" wrote in message ...
dwight wrote:

As an aside, I bought three rhodos early this spring, popped them in the ground. They flowered spectacularly, sprouted new
growth, and today all three are flat-out dead. Perhaps planting them along my pine walk was a bad idea?

Probably root bound and never got any roots into the surrounding soil. --
Paul Furman
www.baynatives.com

We planted 25 of them one year, and never saw any blooms - the dang
deer uprooted all of them...! 8^(
--DR

"dwight" wrote:

As an aside, I bought three rhodos early this spring, popped them in the
ground. They flowered spectacularly, sprouted new growth, and today all
three are flat-out dead. Perhaps planting them along my pine walk was a bad
idea?

Hi Dwight,

Actually I got my SX10IS for photographing rhododendrons and travel
photography. Too bad your rhodies died.

There are a number of possibilities:

ROOT STRANGULATION: This is best prevented by proper root pruning when
planting. The roots need to be opened up. Whether the plant is
balled-and-burlaped or potted, make sure that the plant is getting wet.
Rhododendron guru Harold Greer noted: "Quite often a plant will get
completely dry and then no matter how much water you apply, the rootball
will just keep shedding it. The top of the soil may seem wet, and the
soil around the plant may even be very wet, but the actual rootball of
the plant is bone dry. This is especially true for newly planted
rhododendrons, and it is the major reason for failure, or at least less
than great success with that new plant. It is hard to believe that a
plant can be within mere inches of a sprinkler that has been running for
hours and still be dry, yet it can be SO TRUE!"

DROUGHT: Drought can cause entire entire plants to die. We have had
several years of drought here and we observe that if rhododendrons and
azaleas are not watered during a drought some plants will die,
especially ones just planted. Never let the soil completely dry out'
it's best to keep the soil evenly moist. Too much water or poorly
drained soil might be another explanation of sudden rhododendron or
azalea death. Rhododendrons and azaleas have very fine, fibrous roots
that are easily damaged by waterlogging, even for short periods of time.

VOLES: Voles, also known as meadow mice, may have chewed on the bark
and roots near the crown of the plant. Sometimes they chew all the way
around the trunk and kill the inner bark, resulting in death of the
whole plant. Keep mulch away from the trunk to discourage voles.

JUGLONE POISONING: The roots of Black Walnut (Juglans nigra L.) and
Butternut (Juglans cinerea L.) produce a substance known as juglone
(5-hydroxy-alphanapthaquinone). Persian (English or Carpathian) walnut
trees are sometimes grafted onto black walnut rootstocks. Many plants
such as tomato, potato, blackberry, blueberry, azalea, mountain laurel,
rhododendron, red pine and apple may be injured or killed within one to
two months of growth within the root zone of these trees. The toxic zone
from a mature tree occurs on average in a 50 to 60 foot radius from the
trunk, but can be up to 80 feet. The area affected extends outward each
year as a tree enlarges. Young trees two to eight feet high can have a
root diameter twice the height of the top of the tree, with susceptible
plants dead within the root zone and dying at the margins. The juglone
toxin occurs in the leaves, bark and wood of walnut, but these contain
lower concentrations than in the roots. Juglone is poorly soluble in
water and does not move very far in the soil.

ROOT ROT: Phytophthora Root Rot or wilt is the major killer of
rhododendrons and azaleas. It develops when roots are growing in wet
conditions. The rot is more prevalent in warm summer conditions. Plants
infected with crown rot caused by the fungi Phytophthora have roots
which become clogged with brown fungi internally. The roots get blocked
and the plant wilts and dies. There is not much of any cure for crown
rot. Some varieties of rhododendrons are vulnerable (Chionoides,
Catawbiense Album, Nova Zembla) and some are resistant (Roseum Elegans,
Scintillation, PJM). Sphagnum moss and bark dust combined with good
drainage seem to prevent crown rot, but do not cure it.

There are two essential when growing rhododendrons:

DRAINAGE: Because the fine roots of azaleas and rhododendrons are
easily blocked by fungi, excellent drainage is important. To test
drainage, dig a hole 6 inches deep in the bed and fill it with water. If
the water has not drained from the hole in four hours, install drainage
tile to carry away excess water, or build raised beds. Moist
well-drained soil is a must for most varieties. This sounds difficult,
but it means to not let the soil dry out completely but don't get it too
wet. Thoroughly water if necessary and then let it become almost dry.
Most gardeners do this by planting in a well-drained area and mulching
to hold the soil moisture in. Watering is seldom necessary except during
long dry periods.

ACID SOIL: Most varieties require an acidic soil (pH 4.5-6). Powdered
sulfur is the best agent to acidify the soil. Holly-tone has this in it.
Your plants will get chlorotic if the soil is not acidic enough.
Chlorosis is easily identified; the leaves turn yellow with green veins.
--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Visit my Rhododendron and Azalea web pages at:
http://rhodyman.net/rahome.html
Also visit the Rhododendron and Azalea Bookstore at:
http://rhodyman.net/rabooks.html
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA Zone 6