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#1
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Using Photoshop for Zone/Speed Test
I know I've read about this before (can't find anything about it, however).
What I would like to do is this: Use Photoshop (and a scanner) for a speed test. That is, shoot a frame at Zone V, then Zone I. Develop and test. In a class I had a while back, I remember using a densitometer to determine Zone I for a particular film/developer combination. So, would this work: scan in a gray card (18%); then scan in a sheet of film (in this case Tri-X 320 4x5 developed in HC110) which I shot at Zone V. In theory (if I'm correct), the scanned sheet should closely resemble the scanner gray card, right? And if so, what value would K have (in the RGB info panel) for Zone I? And why? Or...why would this not work? Thanks! I hope I've expressed this correctly. RON __________________________________________________ _______________ B&W Landscape and Still Photography: http://www.ronaldgansphotography.com |
#2
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Some additional info: when I scan in the gray card and convert to RGB, my
values are about 83/83/83, not 128/128/128. I don't know why that is the case. RON "rgans" wrote in message ... I know I've read about this before (can't find anything about it, however). What I would like to do is this: Use Photoshop (and a scanner) for a speed test. That is, shoot a frame at Zone V, then Zone I. Develop and test. In a class I had a while back, I remember using a densitometer to determine Zone I for a particular film/developer combination. So, would this work: scan in a gray card (18%); then scan in a sheet of film (in this case Tri-X 320 4x5 developed in HC110) which I shot at Zone V. In theory (if I'm correct), the scanned sheet should closely resemble the scanner gray card, right? And if so, what value would K have (in the RGB info panel) for Zone I? And why? Or...why would this not work? Thanks! I hope I've expressed this correctly. RON __________________________________________________ _______________ B&W Landscape and Still Photography: http://www.ronaldgansphotography.com |
#3
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Some additional info: when I scan in the gray card and convert to RGB, my
values are about 83/83/83, not 128/128/128. I don't know why that is the case. RON "rgans" wrote in message ... I know I've read about this before (can't find anything about it, however). What I would like to do is this: Use Photoshop (and a scanner) for a speed test. That is, shoot a frame at Zone V, then Zone I. Develop and test. In a class I had a while back, I remember using a densitometer to determine Zone I for a particular film/developer combination. So, would this work: scan in a gray card (18%); then scan in a sheet of film (in this case Tri-X 320 4x5 developed in HC110) which I shot at Zone V. In theory (if I'm correct), the scanned sheet should closely resemble the scanner gray card, right? And if so, what value would K have (in the RGB info panel) for Zone I? And why? Or...why would this not work? Thanks! I hope I've expressed this correctly. RON __________________________________________________ _______________ B&W Landscape and Still Photography: http://www.ronaldgansphotography.com |
#4
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"rgans" wrote in message ... I know I've read about this before (can't find anything about it, however). What I would like to do is this: Use Photoshop (and a scanner) for a speed test. That is, shoot a frame at Zone V, then Zone I. Develop and test. In a class I had a while back, I remember using a densitometer to determine Zone I for a particular film/developer combination. So, would this work: scan in a gray card (18%); then scan in a sheet of film (in this case Tri-X 320 4x5 developed in HC110) which I shot at Zone V. In theory (if I'm correct), the scanned sheet should closely resemble the scanner gray card, right? And if so, what value would K have (in the RGB info panel) for Zone I? And why? Or...why would this not work? You need to read on this topic if you want to get into it. "The Negative", "Beyond the Zone System" and "Controls in Black and White Photography" would be some of the books I'd read. The easiest way to read densities with scanner+photoshop, would be to purchase a calibrated step tablet for easy comparison between the RGB values you get with it versus the ones of the negative. Alternatively, you could try this method: http://www.bobwheeler.com/photo/Docu...oneDigital.pdf Guillermo |
#5
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"rgans" wrote in message ... I know I've read about this before (can't find anything about it, however). What I would like to do is this: Use Photoshop (and a scanner) for a speed test. That is, shoot a frame at Zone V, then Zone I. Develop and test. In a class I had a while back, I remember using a densitometer to determine Zone I for a particular film/developer combination. So, would this work: scan in a gray card (18%); then scan in a sheet of film (in this case Tri-X 320 4x5 developed in HC110) which I shot at Zone V. In theory (if I'm correct), the scanned sheet should closely resemble the scanner gray card, right? And if so, what value would K have (in the RGB info panel) for Zone I? And why? Or...why would this not work? You need to read on this topic if you want to get into it. "The Negative", "Beyond the Zone System" and "Controls in Black and White Photography" would be some of the books I'd read. The easiest way to read densities with scanner+photoshop, would be to purchase a calibrated step tablet for easy comparison between the RGB values you get with it versus the ones of the negative. Alternatively, you could try this method: http://www.bobwheeler.com/photo/Docu...oneDigital.pdf Guillermo |
#6
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"rgans" wrote in message ... I know I've read about this before (can't find anything about it, however). What I would like to do is this: Use Photoshop (and a scanner) for a speed test. That is, shoot a frame at Zone V, then Zone I. Develop and test. In a class I had a while back, I remember using a densitometer to determine Zone I for a particular film/developer combination. So, would this work: scan in a gray card (18%); then scan in a sheet of film (in this case Tri-X 320 4x5 developed in HC110) which I shot at Zone V. In theory (if I'm correct), the scanned sheet should closely resemble the scanner gray card, right? And if so, what value would K have (in the RGB info panel) for Zone I? And why? Or...why would this not work? You need to read on this topic if you want to get into it. "The Negative", "Beyond the Zone System" and "Controls in Black and White Photography" would be some of the books I'd read. The easiest way to read densities with scanner+photoshop, would be to purchase a calibrated step tablet for easy comparison between the RGB values you get with it versus the ones of the negative. Alternatively, you could try this method: http://www.bobwheeler.com/photo/Docu...oneDigital.pdf Guillermo |
#7
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"rgans" wrote in message ... Some additional info: when I scan in the gray card and convert to RGB, my values are about 83/83/83, not 128/128/128. I don't know why that is the case. Because the Zones and densities do not have a linear relationship between them. |
#8
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"rgans" wrote in message ... Some additional info: when I scan in the gray card and convert to RGB, my values are about 83/83/83, not 128/128/128. I don't know why that is the case. Because the Zones and densities do not have a linear relationship between them. |
#9
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"rgans" wrote in message ... Some additional info: when I scan in the gray card and convert to RGB, my values are about 83/83/83, not 128/128/128. I don't know why that is the case. Because the Zones and densities do not have a linear relationship between them. |
#10
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"f/256" wrote in message
... "rgans" wrote in message ... Some additional info: when I scan in the gray card and convert to RGB, my values are about 83/83/83, not 128/128/128. I don't know why that is the case. Because the Zones and densities do not have a linear relationship between them. Indeed true, and somehow this whole idea of using Photoshop as if it were truly a wet process replacement turns my stomach. I must be getting older than I thought. |
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