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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
Hello.
I'm about to buy Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II AF for Minolta. What do you think about this lens? Is it sharpen and quick enough? Or, maybe, I can buy something better in $140 with 200-300 mm? - I plan to use this lens for outdoor photography: some animals, birds, remote scenes... Thanks for advices, V. |
#2
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
If you are taking photographs of birds then it is highly suggested to
obtain a larger focal length. I originally started out with the lens you were looking at ... then added a teleconverter ... but the image quality was poor and magnification was not sufficient that the photographs were becoming a waste of time. I looked into a 75-300mm zoom but it also suffered (to a lesser degree) from the same problems. I currently use a 400mm f4.5 lens for all my wildlife shots (my wife uses a 400mm f5.6 lens). In the long run the cost of the lens has been paid off in the number of quality images I now have. Vov@ Sadovyy wrote: Hello. I'm about to buy Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II AF for Minolta. What do you think about this lens? Is it sharpen and quick enough? Or, maybe, I can buy something better in $140 with 200-300 mm? - I plan to use this lens for outdoor photography: some animals, birds, remote scenes... Thanks for advices, V. |
#3
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
Mister K wrote:
Vov@ Sadovyy wrote: Hello. I'm about to buy Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II AF for Minolta. What do you think about this lens? Is it sharpen and quick enough? If you are taking photographs of birds then it is highly suggested to obtain a larger focal length. I currently use a 400mm f4.5 lens for all my wildlife shots (my wife uses a 400mm f5.6 lens). In the long run the cost of the lens has been paid off in the number of quality images I now have. Hmmm. I find 400 isn't quite enough for frame filling photos. At that focal length wild birds are either looking very suspicious or leaving in a hurry. Adding a 2x TC helps but on my camera that means manual focus and the equivalent of an F11 lens at 800mm. :-( Are there any solutions (that cost less than a small car) ? |
#4
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
"Rob Davison" Mister K wrote:
Vov@ Sadovyy wrote: Hello. I'm about to buy Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II AF for Minolta. What do you think about this lens? Is it sharpen and quick enough? Don't waste your money. Buy a MF 200m f4 Rokkor, used. Or, buy the longest Rokkor lens you can afford (again: used, MF). No AF system will track a bird in flight - don't bother trying. Hmmm. I find 400 isn't quite enough for frame filling photos. At that focal length wild birds are either looking very suspicious or leaving in a hurry. Are there any solutions (that cost less than a small car) ? 1) A bird blind. Any old tent will do. A partially open window in your house with the lens sticking through and the curtains drawn around the lens works fine. 2) Bird seed or animal feed hidden out of view of the camera. A seed & suet ball from the grocery store pet counter hung on a branch serves as a great attractant -- photograph the bird as it sits to the side of the feed. Cost: Bird blind -- Zilch. Bird seed -- A dollar or two. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. |
#5
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
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#6
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
"Bill Hilton" wrote
"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote: No AF system will track a bird in flight - don't bother trying. I can track larger birds like eagles, cranes, herons and (sometimes) snow geese in flight with my Canon EOS-3, and the 1V is even better. This is with a 500 f/4 L lens, often with a 1.4x tele-converter. Lots of people do this ... I stand corrected. Going by my own experience here in Ohio -- not much in the way of eagles, I have only seen one stork (and I am sure it was lost), no herons (well, some egrets here and there), zilch in the way of peacocks, cranes, flamingos .... Lots of Canadian geese, but who wants a pic of a Canadian goose, 'cepting for varmint rifle practice. Now and then a red tail hawk, but way up high. Now, cardinals, blue jays, gross beaks, sparrows et. al. when in flight are another matter when it comes to AF. Ohio: The home of manual focus, the Amish and the world's largest buggy whip manufacturer (our only growth industry, it seems). -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. |
#7
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
Don't waste your money. Buy a MF 200m f4 Rokkor, used. Or, buy the longest
Rokkor lens you can afford (again: used, MF). No AF system will track a bird in flight - don't bother trying. I have Maxxum Minolta, so I need the lens for this camera.. I saw this lens used for $75 - is it a high price? Are there any solutions (that cost less than a small car) ? 1) A bird blind. Any old tent will do. A partially open window in your house with the lens sticking through and the curtains drawn around the lens works fine. 2) Bird seed or animal feed hidden out of view of the camera. A seed & suet ball from the grocery store pet counter hung on a branch serves as a great attractant -- photograph the bird as it sits to the side of the feed. I think, it is right approach.. 200 mm - from which distance is possible to create suitable shot of small bird, like a sparrow, with this focus length? |
#8
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
There is a neat calculator at the bottom of the this website page
http://www.photo.net/making-photographs/focal-length You will find you have to be very close to a small bird to get a "frame-filling" image with a 200mm lens, even with the 1.6 magnification factor of the 10D. Norm |
#9
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
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#10
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Sigma 70-210mm f/4-5.6 UC II
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