DRY MOUNT QUESTION

Hello everyone,
I have been doing my first dry mounting last night and today,
and it has gone very well mostly. I have read in some instructions
to dry out all the materials first. I did not do this...another friend told
me he didn't so I tried without. Hoever, I have noticed on the larger prints
I could see some minute air bubbles?, either that or something underneath....

I am thinking this problem is because I did not dry the materials out,
I have been using 3/16 foamboard as my mounting board....do I dry this out
too...in addition to the RC print??

THanks much for the help,
Mike

"Michael Bonnycastle" wrote in message
om...
Hello everyone,
I have been doing my first dry mounting last night and today,
and it has gone very well mostly. I have read in some instructions
to dry out all the materials first. I did not do this...another friend
told
me he didn't so I tried without. Hoever, I have noticed on the larger
prints
I could see some minute air bubbles?, either that or something
underneath....

I am thinking this problem is because I did not dry the materials out,
I have been using 3/16 foamboard as my mounting board....do I dry this out
too...in addition to the RC print??

_Generally_, the pre-heat step to dry everything out was important for
fiber-based prints and cardboard type mounting board. If the materials
weren't suffiently dried, the finished mount could warp. I would think that
this is not as important with RC prints and foamboard, since both are not as
likely to retain moisture/humidity. OTOH, it probably wouldn't hurt, except
perhaps to "soften" the RC paper surface if it gets too hot.

I've never had problems with air bubbles trapped under the print, but the
tiniest bit of dust can make a bump on the print surface. Does your air
bubble have a smooth dome-like appearence, or is there a "point" bump?
Cleanliness is just as important around the dry-mount press as elsewhere in
the darkroom.

I mount a lot of prints on foamcore, using a spray adhesive (Duro
All-Purpose Spray Adhesive, available at WalMart), and the heated dry mount
press to "set" the adhesive.

You are using a mounting tissue/film designed for RC paper, and being
careful with the press temperature, right? Too hot, and you can have a real
mess on your hands, actually on your press.

Ken Hart

foamboard?!

ive never tried that but if its what im thinking of,
the typical foam board is paper with foam sandwiched between,
as long as the print is dry you should be ok, the bubbles would be
my guess that something expanded in the foam due to the temperature.

k


"Michael Bonnycastle" wrote in message
om...
Hello everyone,
I have been doing my first dry mounting last night and today,
and it has gone very well mostly. I have read in some instructions
to dry out all the materials first. I did not do this...another friend
told
me he didn't so I tried without. Hoever, I have noticed on the larger
prints
I could see some minute air bubbles?, either that or something
underneath....

I am thinking this problem is because I did not dry the materials out,
I have been using 3/16 foamboard as my mounting board....do I dry this out
too...in addition to the RC print??

THanks much for the help,
Mike

In article ,
(Michael Bonnycastle) wrote:

Hoever, I have noticed on the larger prints
I could see some minute air bubbles?, either that or something underneath....

More than likely dirt or dust between the print, the tissue or the matteboard.
Don't use foamcore "unless it is" acid free. Regular Foamcore turns yellow in
time (It has alot of acid in it).
--
Baltimore & DC Large Format User Website

http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

For best results expand this window at least 6" at 1152 x 768 resolution

RC prints don't retain moisture so that is not the issue here, however it
doesn't hurt to dry out/preheat the mount, even foamcore has paper surfaces
and (if your humidity is high) that may be the issue. Additionally if the
mount is preheated the press will not have to heat print, mounting tissue
AND mount when you put your assembly in the press.

On the other hand, you can also get bubbles if your press temp is too low or
if you are trying to use a FB type tissue with RC prints (e.g. Seal MT5).
The temp required for MT5 to bond well approaches the melting temp of RC
prints so you may not be getting a good bond.

With conventional FB prints it's always a good idea to preheat each piece
since you can actually get steam forming little bubbles under the print.

--
darkroommike

----------
"Michael Bonnycastle" wrote in message
om...
Hello everyone,
I have been doing my first dry mounting last night and today,
and it has gone very well mostly. I have read in some instructions
to dry out all the materials first. I did not do this...another friend
told
me he didn't so I tried without. Hoever, I have noticed on the larger
prints
I could see some minute air bubbles?, either that or something
underneath....

I am thinking this problem is because I did not dry the materials out,
I have been using 3/16 foamboard as my mounting board....do I dry this out
too...in addition to the RC print??

THanks much for the help,
Mike

"Ken Hart" wrote in message I've never had problems with air bubbles trapped under the print, but the
tiniest bit of dust can make a bump on the print surface. Does your air
bubble have a smooth dome-like appearence, or is there a "point" bump?
Cleanliness is just as important around the dry-mount press as elsewhere in
the darkroom.

I mount a lot of prints on foamcore, using a spray adhesive (Duro
All-Purpose Spray Adhesive, available at WalMart), and the heated dry mount
press to "set" the adhesive.

You are using a mounting tissue/film designed for RC paper, and being
careful with the press temperature, right? Too hot, and you can have a real
mess on your hands, actually on your press.

Ken Hart


Hi,
Actually on looking at the mounted prints' surface, the bubbles appear
more
to be minute dimples, tiny pits. These are 16x20 Glossy RC prints
that I mounted I mounted on the foam board, at about 180 degrees, and
I left them
in the press for just over a minute. There is no damage or melting of
the
print, so that seems fine. I met a photographer who said he uses
regular
foambard for most of his dry mounting substrates and says it works
great.
I suppose it Could be the 'dimples' are caused by the heat effecting
the board?
Thanks much for the helpful comments.

Mike

foamboard?!


What do you mount prints onto?

--Mike

In article ,
(Michael Bonnycastle) wrote:


Hi,
Actually on looking at the mounted prints' surface, the bubbles appear
more
to be minute dimples, tiny pits.

Your burning the top layer of emulsion off the RC paper,....in small areas,
a sheet of release paper should help. If you really want to use foamcore.
--
Baltimore & DC Large Format User Website

http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

For best results expand this window at least 6" at 1152 x 768 resolution

"Michael Bonnycastle" wrote

Hi,

Ho.

Actually on looking at the mounted prints' surface, the
bubbles appear more to be minute dimples, tiny pits.

The problem is dirt/gunk above the print. Platens quite
often have lots of crud on them (like, oh, melted RC prints...)
and the crud makes little indents the prints. Also possible
the print was put in the press dirty or if you used a sheet
of paper between the print and the platen (you are supposed
to) the paper may have stuff stuck to it.

Cleaning the platen is a PITA. That, and folks with sloppy
technique using the press, often result in platens that
resemble a miniature model of the Alps.

If the platen is the problem you will need "Bienfang Platen
Cleaner". This is a paste solvent and can be applied without
demounting the platen. $32 for 2oz (funny, n'est ce pas?)
from Calumet. You might try trichloroethylene (different
from 1-1-1 Trichloroethane, no longer available) or
dichloromethane. Liquid solvents are a pain as they
require removing the platen or working with an upside
down propped open press. Now you know why platens are
left dirty.

The usual solution is to Place 2-3 sheets clean 20-lb paper,
or a sheet of 2-ply mounting board, between the platen
and the print.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

----------
"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote in message
hlink.net...
"Michael Bonnycastle" wrote

Hi,

Ho.

Actually on looking at the mounted prints' surface, the
bubbles appear more to be minute dimples, tiny pits.

The problem is dirt/gunk above the print. Platens quite
often have lots of crud on them (like, oh, melted RC prints...)
and the crud makes little indents the prints. Also possible
the print was put in the press dirty or if you used a sheet
of paper between the print and the platen (you are supposed
to) the paper may have stuff stuck to it.

Cleaning the platen is a PITA. That, and folks with sloppy
technique using the press, often result in platens that
resemble a miniature model of the Alps.

If the platen is the problem you will need "Bienfang Platen
Cleaner". This is a paste solvent and can be applied without
demounting the platen. $32 for 2oz (funny, n'est ce pas?)
from Calumet. You might try trichloroethylene (different
from 1-1-1 Trichloroethane, no longer available) or
dichloromethane. Liquid solvents are a pain as they
require removing the platen or working with an upside
down propped open press. Now you know why platens are
left dirty.

The usual solution is to Place 2-3 sheets clean 20-lb paper,
or a sheet of 2-ply mounting board, between the platen
and the print.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

Another great source of "crud" is dry mount adhesive. Either from untrimmed
prints or sloppy technique. I worked for one guy that tacked his tissue to
the back of prints using one corner of his press, build up was incredible.
Platen cleaner is specially formulated to dissolve dry mount adhesive.
After a cleaning session or two you'll always use a cover sheet when
drymounting. Dirty cover sheets get thrown, the release paper Bienfang/Seal
sells is silicone slick--goo doesn't stick so they don't get tossed as often
but good heavy brown kraft paper also works for commercial (non-archival)
work.

--
darkroommike