If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
slightly purple Tri-X ?
I just got into b/w film development myself. The first 4 rolls of Tri-X I
developed had an almost neutral transparent film base. However, the last roll turned out to be quite purple, but still very transparent. Now I did reuse the fixer, but according to my tests it was still ok. It took about 1 minute to clear exposed film in it, and I fixed the film for 4 and a half minute. For the rest I treated the films identically. First a 1 minute soak in water. Then 8 minutes in ID11, 1 minute stop. All 20 degrees Celcius, take or leave half a degree. Is this due to differences in film batches, or was the fixer bad anyhow, or... ? Thanks. Koen |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Koen wrote:
I just got into b/w film development myself. The first 4 rolls of Tri-X I developed had an almost neutral transparent film base. However, the last roll turned out to be quite purple, but still very transparent. Now I did reuse the fixer, but according to my tests it was still ok. It took about 1 minute to clear exposed film in it, and I fixed the film for 4 and a half minute. For the rest I treated the films identically. First a 1 minute soak in water. Then 8 minutes in ID11, 1 minute stop. All 20 degrees Celcius, take or leave half a degree. Is this due to differences in film batches, or was the fixer bad anyhow, or... ? Thanks. Koen The same thing happens to me, and I can't explain it. I use Delta 400 most of the time, and process it the same way every time. Sometimes my films come out pink and sometimes neutral gray. Doesn't seem to make any difference in printing whatsoever, so I've stopped worrying about it. It probably does have something to do with how few or many rolls have run through your fixer, but I'll leave it the people who "discover" my work after I'm gone to figure out; maybe it will generate some articles in future photo journals trying to solve the mystery. I've had some luck in getting more of the pink out by mixing my Perma-wash double strength after the fixer, but even that doesn't get it all out sometimes. I suspect Ph is involved, but don't know how exactly. Larry |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Somebody just told me it might be caused by insufficient fixing.
So I might try to refix the film and see what happens. It is cumbersome however because I cut it already. Thanks ! Koen |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Koen wrote:
I just got into b/w film development myself. The first 4 rolls of Tri-X I developed had an almost neutral transparent film base. However, the last roll turned out to be quite purple, but still very transparent. The same thing happened to me. I started doing LF and developing my own films this year. I found that as my fixer got older, the negatives would show blue or purple haze and or streaks. The solution in my case was to first increase the fixer time and then to replace it when fixing became unreasonably long. cheers -- regards from :: John Bartley 43 Norway Spruce Street Stittsville, Ontario Canada, K2S1P5 ( If you slow down it takes longer - does that apply to life also?) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Ok Thanks. Do you know wether tis will have a considerable effect on the
lifespan of negatives ? If so I will have to refix them. If that is possible. Koen |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Koen wrote:
Ok Thanks. Do you know wether tis will have a considerable effect on the lifespan of negatives ? If so I will have to refix them. If that is possible. Koen I'm sorry Koen, I don't know the answer to this. I've always (for the short time I've been at it) checked the film, and then refixed right away if necessary. -- regards from :: John Bartley 43 Norway Spruce Street Stittsville, Ontario Canada, K2S1P5 ( If you slow down it takes longer - does that apply to life also?) |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Koen wrote:
I just got into b/w film development myself. The first 4 rolls of Tri-X I developed had an almost neutral transparent film base. However, the last roll turned out to be quite purple, but still very transparent. Now I did reuse the fixer, but according to my tests it was still ok. It took about 1 minute to clear exposed film in it, and I fixed the film for 4 and a half minute. For the rest I treated the films identically. First a 1 minute soak in water. Then 8 minutes in ID11, 1 minute stop. All 20 degrees Celcius, take or leave half a degree. Is this due to differences in film batches, or was the fixer bad anyhow, or... ? The recommendation from experts is to use only a rapid fixer with modern Kodak films; I've read that the pink is supposed to be a dye that's bound to halide, and if it remains it means some halide (probably iodide) hasn't been fixed away. I've also heard that theory denied by a former Kodak chemist, who claims it's just not washing out of the gelatin and is harmless. It's a well known phenomenon in regards to new Tri-X (400TX) as well as TMX and TMY, in both 35 mm and 120 formats. I've never seen it in my own TMY or Tri-X in either format, but I use a rapid fix and probably "overfix" by about 2x what I should -- commonly up to ten minutes in film strength rapid fix, when clearing time while fresh is under one minute. I don't use a hypo clearing agent, and use the Ilford low-water wash method (fill, invert 5 times, drain; fill, invert 10 times, draing; fill, invert 20 times, drain, fill and treat with wetting agent). However, I usually see the dye come off in the developer, which is purplish when I pour it out. I wonder if the HC-110 I use is more alkaline than your ID-11 -- it might well be, given that at similar dilutions (B vs. 1:1) it's almost twice as fast working. Perhaps you could try a soak in sodium carbonate solution after fix/hypo clear, and before wash? Proportion probably isn't critical, a couple spoons in a quarter liter of water should do. This should be more alkaline than the borax accelerator in ID-11, and as a bonus may accelerate washing by swelling the gelatin relative to the condition in an acid fixer. -- I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"Koen" . be wrote in message ... I just got into b/w film development myself. The first 4 rolls of Tri-X I developed had an almost neutral transparent film base. However, the last roll turned out to be quite purple, but still very transparent. Now I did reuse the fixer, but according to my tests it was still ok. It took about 1 minute to clear exposed film in it, and I fixed the film for 4 and a half minute. For the rest I treated the films identically. First a 1 minute soak in water. Then 8 minutes in ID11, 1 minute stop. All 20 degrees Celcius, take or leave half a degree. Is this due to differences in film batches, or was the fixer bad anyhow, or... ? Thanks. Koen The color you often see is residual sensitizing dye of some sort. It is not the antihalation dye as this is decolored in the developer. Washing in filtered tap water (I soak reels several times) will remove 95% of the color. This residual color is not the direct result of poor fixing although it will probably be obvious in poorly fixed film. Water alone will remove it. It sounds to me that you may be a little short on your fixing time to begin with. I have always given at least an 8-minute fix, or even better, two 4-minute fixes in the two-bath system. Bath #1 for initial fix then rinse and bath #2. After a few rolls, or plates, make a new bath #2 and use the old #2 as your #1. Almost fool-proof and economical too. Truly, dr bob. P.S. Yes there can be startling differences in film batches as far as this "color thing" goes. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Uzytkownik "Donald Qualls" napisal w wiadomosci I don't use a hypo clearing agent, and use the Ilford low-water wash method (fill, invert 5 times, drain; fill, invert 10 times, draing; fill, invert 20 times, drain, fill and treat with wetting agent). Donald, is that without set-aside time? I actually heard many times it is fill, ivert 5 times - set aside for 5 minutes - fill, invert 10 times, set aside ... and so on. I'm a bit puzzled now ... Regards Magdalena |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
It's most likely exhausted fixer (or insuffucient fix time).. It
doesn't seem to take much to exhaust fixer when developing films.. I do have a question, Why are you pre-soaking?? I've heard of it for color films due to the temperatures, color papers in tubes for even processing. But not for b&w films... 8) Jeff "Koen" . be wrote in message ... I just got into b/w film development myself. The first 4 rolls of Tri-X I developed had an almost neutral transparent film base. However, the last roll turned out to be quite purple, but still very transparent. Now I did reuse the fixer, but according to my tests it was still ok. It took about 1 minute to clear exposed film in it, and I fixed the film for 4 and a half minute. For the rest I treated the films identically. First a 1 minute soak in water. Then 8 minutes in ID11, 1 minute stop. All 20 degrees Celcius, take or leave half a degree. Is this due to differences in film batches, or was the fixer bad anyhow, or... ? Thanks. Koen |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Purple Cast on Printed Photos | Nhmiller | Digital Photography | 21 | August 8th 04 12:31 AM |
Copyright Question? - Slightly off topic sorry.... | IB | Medium Format Photography Equipment | 17 | July 8th 04 01:42 PM |
Slightly OT--just received my 8000ED | Matt Clara | 35mm Photo Equipment | 0 | July 3rd 04 02:28 PM |
Slightly OT - wide lens revisited | jjs | Medium Format Photography Equipment | 11 | May 1st 04 03:56 AM |
Slightly OT - Customs for used lens from Canada? | James Dunn | Large Format Photography Equipment | 2 | February 1st 04 06:20 AM |