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Which wash check to use?



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 29th 06, 05:41 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
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Default Which wash check to use?

I want to make sure I'm washing my fiber prints adequately. What's the
difference between HT-1a and HT-2 residual hypo test? Is one preferable? I'd
rather go with HT-2 since I have silver nitrate on hand and the permanganate
in HT-1 is supposed to be nasty stuff. The Residual Silver Test test for
adequate fixing not washing is that correct? THNX.

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& to butcher & slaughter others every time a general or a politician gets a
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treasonous, corporate whore, war criminals accountable for their actions.


  #2  
Old January 29th 06, 09:10 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
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Default Which wash check to use?



seog wrote:

I want to make sure I'm washing my fiber prints adequately. What's the
difference between HT-1a and HT-2 residual hypo test? Is one preferable? I'd
rather go with HT-2 since I have silver nitrate on hand and the permanganate
in HT-1 is supposed to be nasty stuff. The Residual Silver Test test for
adequate fixing not washing is that correct? THNX.



I'm only familiar with HT2. P. permanganate
is typically used for reducers, tray cleaners,
and stain removers. Not sure then why this would
be an ingredient in a washing test.

Calling Richard...
  #3  
Old January 29th 06, 12:22 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
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Default Which wash check to use?

Tom Phillips wrote:

seog wrote:
I want to make sure I'm washing my fiber prints adequately. What's the
difference between HT-1a and HT-2 residual hypo test? Is one preferable? I'd
rather go with HT-2 since I have silver nitrate on hand and the permanganate
in HT-1 is supposed to be nasty stuff. The Residual Silver Test test for
adequate fixing not washing is that correct? THNX.



I'm only familiar with HT2. P. permanganate
is typically used for reducers, tray cleaners,
and stain removers. Not sure then why this would
be an ingredient in a washing test.

There is such a test, but it is not very sensitive.

You mix a solution of 1 gram of potassium permanganate and one to 2 gram of
sodium carbonate in a litre of water. It is seriously violet. Allow about 5
ml of stuff to drain from a print or negative into a small graduate. Add one
drop of the permanganate solution to this. Repeat the test with an equal
amount of water instead of the drainings. Compare the colors of the two. If
the color persists in the drainings for as long as it does in the fresh
water, the washing may be considered to be complete.

--
.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642.
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/( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org
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  #4  
Old January 29th 06, 01:10 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
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Default Which wash check to use?



Jean-David Beyer wrote:

Tom Phillips wrote:

seog wrote:
I want to make sure I'm washing my fiber prints adequately. What's the
difference between HT-1a and HT-2 residual hypo test? Is one preferable? I'd
rather go with HT-2 since I have silver nitrate on hand and the permanganate
in HT-1 is supposed to be nasty stuff. The Residual Silver Test test for
adequate fixing not washing is that correct? THNX.



I'm only familiar with HT2. P. permanganate
is typically used for reducers, tray cleaners,
and stain removers. Not sure then why this would
be an ingredient in a washing test.

There is such a test, but it is not very sensitive.

You mix a solution of 1 gram of potassium permanganate and one to 2 gram of
sodium carbonate in a litre of water. It is seriously violet. Allow about 5
ml of stuff to drain from a print or negative into a small graduate. Add one
drop of the permanganate solution to this. Repeat the test with an equal
amount of water instead of the drainings. Compare the colors of the two. If
the color persists in the drainings for as long as it does in the fresh
water, the washing may be considered to be complete.


Well that explains a bunch. HT-1a is not applied
to the print...thanks
  #5  
Old January 29th 06, 06:02 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
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Default Which wash check to use?

On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 01:10:22 -0700, Tom Phillips
wrote:



seog wrote:

I want to make sure I'm washing my fiber prints adequately. What's the
difference between HT-1a and HT-2 residual hypo test? Is one preferable? I'd
rather go with HT-2 since I have silver nitrate on hand and the permanganate
in HT-1 is supposed to be nasty stuff. The Residual Silver Test test for
adequate fixing not washing is that correct? THNX.



I'm only familiar with HT2. P. permanganate
is typically used for reducers, tray cleaners,
and stain removers. Not sure then why this would
be an ingredient in a washing test.

Calling Richard


Kodak HT-1a

Water 200ml
Pot. Permangate 0.3g
Sod. Hydroxide 0.6g
Water to make 250ml

Dilute 1cc stock solution with 124ml water. Drain print wash water
into the solution. If a small amount of fixer is detected the solution
will change colors to violet in about 30 seconds and then clear.

Would I bother with this test ? No. I think Kodak had good reason to
develop HT-2.

==
John - Photographer & Webmaster
www.puresilver.org - www.xs750.net
  #6  
Old January 29th 06, 09:43 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
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Default Which wash check to use?


"seog" wrote in message
news:gIXCf.994$0J3.96@trndny08...
I want to make sure I'm washing my fiber prints adequately.
What's the difference between HT-1a and HT-2 residual hypo
test? Is one preferable? I'd rather go with HT-2 since I
have silver nitrate on hand and the permanganate in HT-1 is
supposed to be nasty stuff. The Residual Silver Test test
for adequate fixing not washing is that correct? THNX.


HT-1 and HT-1a (slightly modified) the test using
Permanganate, is a very old one and is not considered
adequate. This test measures the amount of hypo in the water
draining off a print or film and does not give an adequate
idea of the amount of hypo remaining, especially in fiber
prints. It was replaced at least fifty years ago by the
silver nitrate test. This is applied to the emulsion but
will also work on the support side. The silver nitrate
reacts with any remaining hypo to form silver sulfide, which
shows up as a yellow or brown stain. Kodak used to publish a
card with stain chips called the Kodak Hypo Estimator for
use with this test (and also the Sodium sulfide test for
residual silver halide). There is a more elaborate version
of the silver nitrate test for use with a densitometer but
the simple test is adequate to check for completeness of
washing.
Since the test leaves a permanent mark on prints, even
when washing is complete, it is suggested that a test strip
be processed along with the prints for the test.

Here is the formula for the Silver Nitrate test.

Kodak HT-2 Hypo Test Solution

Water 750.0 ml
Acetic Acid, 28% 125.0 ml
Silver Nitrate 7.5 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter

To test place a drop of two in a clear area of the margin
of the film or paper and allow to stand for about 3 minutes.
Swab off. There should be little or no stain.
Note, the untreated test spots will darken in the light
so the test should be carried out in subdued light and
comparision made soon after applying the drops.

A liter of this solution is a lifetime supply. I
recommend making up no more than 50 or 100 ml at a time.
Because the Silver Nitrate will react with halides in the
water its best to make it up with deionized, or at least
boiled, water. There should be no precipitate when makint it
up.
The solution should be stored in the dark and will keep
several months.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA



  #7  
Old January 29th 06, 11:46 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
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Default Which wash check to use?

seog wrote:

I want to make sure I'm washing my fiber prints adequately.


Search Google from this NG but not this NG for, turner
horder fixer . A post there from 1991 details a few test
methods. Very interesting.
From Google search for, ilford permanganate hypo . That
site has a few very interesting articles.
Turners' approach I think most interesting. I think it will
work with paper as well as with film. Dan

 




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