If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
How do I wash my prints
I have been in a class setting and am finally going to set this up at home
in my bathroom. I have all the trays. But to do my first wash out class just has the prints sitting in water and than they are moved to a bigger sint that aggitates the prints and then they are dried. I do not have a big sink that will aggitate the prints. How can I do this at home. And am I putting anything in the water like perma wash. -- Message posted via http://www.photokb.com |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
On 3/11/2005 9:59 AM April Lyons via PhotoKB.com spake thus:
I have been in a class setting and am finally going to set this up at home in my bathroom. I have all the trays. But to do my first wash out class just has the prints sitting in water and than they are moved to a bigger sint that aggitates the prints and then they are dried. I do not have a big sink that will aggitate the prints. How can I do this at home. And am I putting anything in the water like perma wash. Short answer (don't worry, longer, more detailed ones will follow): first of all, depends on what kind of paper you're using. If you're using RC (resin-coated) paper, as is likely, washing is much easier and takes less time than with fiber-based paper. Fiber-based takes a *lot* more work and time to wash. Yes, you should use hypo-clearing agent (AKA Perma-Wash or other product), as it increases the rate at which hypo is leached out of the paper. After that, a couple of soaks and a short rinse should do the trick. When I print (using RC), I just pile the prints in a big tub (a plastic dishwashing pan), then stick it under the shower for 10-15 minutes, rotating the prints from bottom to top. I also use HCA as the last bath before the water soak. (You don't use HCA in the wash water itself, just plain water.) -- "I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon." - Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by the late Hunter S. Thompson |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
When starting out use RC paper, RC prints can easily be washed on at a time
in a regular tray, just fill and dump the tray several times. RC papers do not require wash aids either. If you want to get just a little fancier get a wash tray like the Patterson unit. Prints can be hung from one corner using clothes pins (I use plastic clothes pins and wash them once in a while to rinse the dust off) and will air dry nice and flat. Since the prints wash so fast there is no real need to "batch" wash them. darkroommike "April Lyons via PhotoKB.com" wrote in message . .. I have been in a class setting and am finally going to set this up at home in my bathroom. I have all the trays. But to do my first wash out class just has the prints sitting in water and than they are moved to a bigger sint that aggitates the prints and then they are dried. I do not have a big sink that will aggitate the prints. How can I do this at home. And am I putting anything in the water like perma wash. -- Message posted via http://www.photokb.com |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
I'm using RC paper. I dan't care for the Fiber based much. It's a pain in
the butt. Forgive me I'm still not getting it. I'll just put the order and if you might be able to fill in the blanks please. Developer trat, Stop bath tray, Fixer Tray. I know the times on these. The next try would be the Water or holding bath. How long would I have to keep them in there and I could just use a tray with water in it and not running. The next one would need to be running with the perma wash in it? If I let water run over it how would I keep the perma wash in it? And how long do I need to keep it i there. -- Message posted via http://www.photokb.com |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 19:53:02 GMT, "April Lyons via PhotoKB.com"
wrote: I'm using RC paper. I dan't care for the Fiber based much. It's a pain in the butt. Developer trat, Stop bath tray, Fixer Tray. I know the times on these. The next try would be the Water or holding bath. Use an oversize tray for your holding bath. If you are printing for an extended time, dump and refill the holding bath every ten prints or so, to get rid of accumulated fixer (that carries over from the fix tray). When you are done printing, dump and refill the holding bath, let the water run while you shuffle the prints bottom to top for about 5 minutes. Give each print a quick rinse top and bottom as you remove them one at a time, squeegee, and hang or lay out to dry. You don't need perma wash for RC. Chris Ellinger Ann Arbor, MI |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 19:53:02 GMT, "April Lyons via PhotoKB.com"
wrote: I'm using RC paper. I dan't care for the Fiber based much. It's a pain in the butt. Forgive me I'm still not getting it. I'll just put the order and if you might be able to fill in the blanks please. Developer trat, Stop bath tray, Fixer Tray. I know the times on these. The next try would be the Water or holding bath. How long would I have to keep them in there and I could just use a tray with water in it and not running. The next one would need to be running with the perma wash in it? If I let water run over it how would I keep the perma wash in it? And how long do I need to keep it i there. For a wash tray, I'd suggest getting a tray one size bigger than your paper. If your biggest print will be 8x10, get an 11x14 tray. For RC, I drill some small holes - about 1/8" will do - along one end of the tray at the bottom. Now - ever seen those hand-held shower things that have a cone shaped thing on one end to slip over a faucet? Get one of those and remove the shower piece from the end opposite the cone. Now you can put the cone over a faucet and the other end in the wash tray. A couple clothes pins will probably work to hold it in place. Adjust the water so the tray will stay about 3/4 full with water running out of the holes. Since RC paper will wash well in about 5 minutes, I don't use Perma-wash. I just drop the print in the wash tray for 5 minutes, take it out & hang it on a clothes pin by one corner. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Dave Starr, Senior Shop Rat Emeritus: 14,647 days in a GM plant. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
1; After the fix rinse a print in just enough water to cover well,
perhaps 8 ounces. Agitate plenty for a good minute, flipping and turning. 2; Place in holding tray. 3; At end of run, with prints still in tray, dump the water, then refill with fresh. From the bottom of the stack pull the prints to top. Agitate some and continue with the others; a few, 3 - 4, a lot 6 - 7 minutes. 4; If a few prints repeat step 3 once, if a lot repeat step 3 twice. If you use very little water each wash, add one more wash. I sponge dry then set the print or prints on edge to finish. FWIW, I process single-tray one-shot using very dilute chemistry. With only one tray used, I've a roomy bathroom darkroom. The wash for RC paper is so quick the one tray takes care of that also; a 1, 2, and 3 minute wash is given. With FB I need two trays. Dan |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
On 3/11/2005 12:57 PM Chris Ellinger spake thus:
[...] You don't need perma wash for RC. So all this time I've been wasting good sodium sulfite, not to mention time, as HCA? Does it even help to use HCA on RC paper? If not, thanks for simplifying my life in a small way. -- "I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon." - Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by the late Hunter S. Thompson |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
For RC I read from people wasting time and chemicals.
I don't use HCA for RC and a 30 sec. wash under the water tap (25°C) does the job. No problems with permanence for years now. Stacking in a tray after the fixer is no problem, they can wait for the rinse. The fact is, that RC is all plastic, it doesn't absorb chemicals, the running tap immediately removes them. I dan't care for the Fiber based much. It's a pain in the butt. So I thought, until I discovered the difference. I stronly advise to either move to digital prints - they're not so much worse than RC - or give FB a chance. Once you got the taste, you'll forget about digital printing. Jan www.jantieghem.tk |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Well, maybe we'd better start sculpturing instead...? Output lasts longer...
;-) Anyway, I second your philosophy! "traveler" schreef in bericht oups.com... | You're gonna die, your | pictures are going to turn to dust, and eventually, nobody will know or | care that you've even been alive, that is, unless you are somebody | special and the world finds out about it first. Even then, all it will | take is a generation like the current one who don't give a rat's ass | about anyone or anything that has come before them and all bets are | off. In other words, if you get every last molecule of chemistry off | your ****ing prints or not is meaningless in the face of your own | mortality. | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Ping: Ryadia --Large Digital Prints | Alan Browne | Digital SLR Cameras | 22 | February 22nd 05 03:54 PM |
Dry-mounting Epson prints? | ... | Digital Photography | 0 | November 1st 04 11:05 PM |
NAACO Zip Fix | LR Kalajainen | In The Darkroom | 17 | October 26th 04 11:06 PM |
Ink Jet Prints Problems | Marshall Thurman | Digital Photography | 27 | August 16th 04 11:05 PM |
Digital darkroom | Paul Friday | Medium Format Photography Equipment | 84 | July 9th 04 05:26 AM |