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#101
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Two more non-advantage points: the D70 has a penta-Dach-mirror viewfinder, not a pentaprism; so does the Canon: Eye-level SLR (with fixed pentamirror) you can send email to me using mendelson-at-mendelson-dot-nl www.mendelson.nl |
#102
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"T.N.T." wrote in message ia.disorg... On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 17:38:25 GMT, "Steven M. Scharf" , wrote in ink.net: "adm" wrote in message ... "Steven M. Scharf" wrote in message Ummmm.....what about spot metering and fast flash sync ? The D70 is an anomaly in terms of the fast flash sync, even the D2X doesn't have the fast flash sync. It's because the D70's 1/500s flash sync at ISO200 is exactly the same as the D2X's 1/250s at ISO100. No advantage there whatsoever. Ah, you're right of course, I forgot that the D70 doesn't support ISO 100. Thanks for pointing that out. |
#103
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T.N.T. wrote:
the D70's flash sync speed of 1/500s at ISO200 vs 350D's 1/200s at ISO100 is just 1/3 stop different, not as much an advantage that 1/500s vs 1/200s makes it out to be. That makes it 16-15 for D70. The point of faster flash synch is to have shorter exposure times: 1/500 will stop action better than 1/200. Bob |
#104
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On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 12:50:15 -0500, bob wrote:
T.N.T. wrote: the D70's flash sync speed of 1/500s at ISO200 vs 350D's 1/200s at ISO100 is just 1/3 stop different, not as much an advantage that 1/500s vs 1/200s makes it out to be. That makes it 16-15 for D70. The point of faster flash synch is to have shorter exposure times: 1/500 will stop action better than 1/200. Not only that, but to still be able to use fill flash in bright sunlight when faster shutter speeds are a necessity to maintain proper exposure. Looking at this purely in the sense of stops is just weird. -- Owamanga! |
#105
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bob wrote:
T.N.T. wrote: the D70's flash sync speed of 1/500s at ISO200 vs 350D's 1/200s at ISO100 is just 1/3 stop different, not as much an advantage that 1/500s vs 1/200s makes it out to be. That makes it 16-15 for D70. The point of faster flash synch is to have shorter exposure times: 1/500 will stop action better than 1/200. The action is stopped by the flash light which has a duration of much less than a ms ( 1/1000) up to about 2ms at max duration. Having a fast sync: -freezes motion from _ambient_ light contribution. In many situtations the ambient light is so low as to not contribute to the exposure. -reduces ambient light contribution. Sometimes (often) one wants to make sure that only the light from the flash is in the exposure, faster sync reduces the ambient exposure (and not neccesarily for motion-freeze reasons). Flash photography is always 2 exposures, ambient and flash, at the same time. (A rear sync is useful to capture the motion at lower shutter speeds and freeze the ambient movement at the end of the full frame exposure cycle). Cheers, Alan. -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
#106
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Steven M. Scharf wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... Well ... remember that when sensor cleaning, they recommend operating it from the AC power adaptor, which suggests that holding the mirror up drains the battery rather quickly. They are simply concerned that someone might attempt sensor cleaning with an almost-exhausted battery, and the camera will turn off, and the mirror will crash down on a brush. The shutter is the delicate part if it closes, at high velocity, over a brush. The crashing of the mirror might also push the brush/blower onto the sensor. -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
#107
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Alan Browne wrote:
bob wrote: T.N.T. wrote: the D70's flash sync speed of 1/500s at ISO200 vs 350D's 1/200s at ISO100 is just 1/3 stop different, not as much an advantage that 1/500s vs 1/200s makes it out to be. That makes it 16-15 for D70. The point of faster flash synch is to have shorter exposure times: 1/500 will stop action better than 1/200. The action is stopped by the flash light which has a duration of much less than a ms ( 1/1000) up to about 2ms at max duration. Having a fast sync: -freezes motion from _ambient_ light contribution. In many situtations the ambient light is so low as to not contribute to the exposure. -reduces ambient light contribution. Sometimes (often) one wants to make sure that only the light from the flash is in the exposure, faster sync reduces the ambient exposure (and not neccesarily for motion-freeze reasons). Flash photography is always 2 exposures, ambient and flash, at the same time. (A rear sync is useful to capture the motion at lower shutter speeds and freeze the ambient movement at the end of the full frame exposure cycle). I was thinking back to my days as a newspaper photographer. Whenever I took pictures at a press conference, I had to be certain my subject was not waving his arms around -- my 1/60 flash synch was not nearly fast enough to freeze his motion, and the rooms were brightly enough lit that ambient light was nearly sufficient on it's own. I'd end up with pictures of people who seemed to have no hands :-( I suppose a brighter flash would have changed the ratio, but the Vivitar 235 was all I had. When I used the Nikons with their 1/250 synch, the problem was greatly reduced. Bob |
#108
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On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 13:10:05 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote: bob wrote: T.N.T. wrote: the D70's flash sync speed of 1/500s at ISO200 vs 350D's 1/200s at ISO100 is just 1/3 stop different, not as much an advantage that 1/500s vs 1/200s makes it out to be. That makes it 16-15 for D70. Thinking about this some more, you'd need twice the power output to illuminate the same scene if you drop from ISO200 to ISO100, effectively cutting your flash power in half, limiting ranges, doubling recharge times etc. This just isn't a good comparison. The point of faster flash synch is to have shorter exposure times: 1/500 will stop action better than 1/200. The action is stopped by the flash light which has a duration of much less than a ms ( 1/1000) up to about 2ms at max duration. But the exposure still captures ambient light, suggesting movement if there is any. Having a fast sync: -freezes motion from _ambient_ light contribution. In many situtations the ambient light is so low as to not contribute to the exposure. This is true when photographing in dark places with no point-light-sources (a rare event) - usually night scenes include some form of illumination source and these need a relatively fast shutter speed to stop them from moving (at least 1/focal length would be suitable). Not an argument for *high speed* flash, traditional cameras with anything less than a 160mm lens work fine in these situations. -reduces ambient light contribution. Sometimes (often) one wants to make sure that only the light from the flash is in the exposure, faster sync reduces the ambient exposure (and not neccesarily for motion-freeze reasons). Yes it will do this, but I can't think of a situation outside of the studio (and you say 'often') where you'd want to kill *all* ambient light. It's ambient light that brings atmosphere, usually you want to get as much as you can without introducing motion blur. If your problem is mixed lighting (tungsten w/flash or fluorescent w/flash then just use a suitable flash filter to compensate). Flash photography is always 2 exposures, ambient and flash, at the same time. You missed the killer, the big one, the real reason for fast sync: It lets you fill-flash in broad daylight, dark Churches or anywhere in between. A shutterbug article for those who are not convinced: http://www.shutterbug.net/features/1100sb_using/ (A rear sync is useful to capture the motion at lower shutter speeds and freeze the ambient movement at the end of the full frame exposure cycle). Yes, and a rear curtain flash prevents the flash-flinching of fast responding animals or children from being part of the exposure (assumes camera doesn't use pre-flash for metering or anti-redeue gizmo). -- Owamanga! |
#109
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Owamanga wrote:
Thinking about this some more, you'd need twice the power output to illuminate the same scene if you drop from ISO200 to ISO100, effectively cutting your flash power in half, limiting ranges, doubling recharge times etc. This just isn't a good comparison. It's part of a comparison. The whole is important. The point of faster flash synch is to have shorter exposure times: 1/500 will stop action better than 1/200. The action is stopped by the flash light which has a duration of much less than a ms ( 1/1000) up to about 2ms at max duration. But the exposure still captures ambient light, suggesting movement if there is any. If the ambient falls 4 or 5 stops below the exp. setting (S+A), there will be no recording of it. See Bob's other post .. the other extreme is shooting someone who is fairly well lit. Having a fast sync: -freezes motion from _ambient_ light contribution. In many situtations the ambient light is so low as to not contribute to the exposure. This is true when photographing in dark places with no point-light-sources (a rare event) - usually night scenes include some form of illumination source and these need a relatively fast shutter speed to stop them from moving (at least 1/focal length would be suitable). Not an argument for *high speed* flash, traditional cameras with anything less than a 160mm lens work fine in these situations. Even in my makeshift studio with a couple 100W bulbs aimed at the ceiling (albeit med-dark wood), plus the softboxes, plus some light leaking via the blinds, there is no ambient recording at 1/160 f/8. -reduces ambient light contribution. Sometimes (often) one wants to make sure that only the light from the flash is in the exposure, faster sync reduces the ambient exposure (and not neccesarily for motion-freeze reasons). Yes it will do this, but I can't think of a situation outside of the studio (and you say 'often') where you'd want to kill *all* ambient light. It's ambient light that brings atmosphere, usually you want to get as much as you can without introducing motion blur. If your problem is mixed lighting (tungsten w/flash or fluorescent w/flash then just use a suitable flash filter to compensate). I'm not saying it's a practice for allsits, although in the studio it usually is. Flash photography is always 2 exposures, ambient and flash, at the same time. You missed the killer, the big one, the real reason for fast sync: It lets you fill-flash in broad daylight, dark Churches or anywhere in between. I have no prob fill flashing in broad daylight for most compos, I just dial the flash comp back to -0.5 to -2 and I'm set. The brighter it is, the less fill (no automation there, you have to judge it). For dark interiors where I want to fill in BG light (the inevitable X-mas tree portrits) I just use slow sync or manually set flash and ambient xposures. Get it all. For very shallow DOF, I have HSS, and I can fill flash and frezze motion at the same pump. And/or ND's (but that's bit tedious). HSS is also useful for bringing the GN of the flash WAY down when the flash comp is not enough. 1/4000 and that flash is sucked dry and probably falls on less than 5% of the film at any time during the shot. A shutterbug article for those who are not convinced: http://www.shutterbug.net/features/1100sb_using/ (A rear sync is useful to capture the motion at lower shutter speeds and freeze the ambient movement at the end of the full frame exposure cycle). Yes, and a rear curtain flash prevents the flash-flinching of fast responding animals or children from being part of the exposure (assumes camera doesn't use pre-flash for metering or anti-redeue gizmo). I shoot manual exp/manual flash when I want effects, so no-preflash. I just got the Maxxum 7D and the ADI / pre-flash is very noticeable and I'm wondering about the total shutter lag now. Preflash with the 5400 on the Maxxum 9 is only noticeable if you really pay attention. Cheers, Alan. -- -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. |
#110
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On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 14:08:28 -0500, Alan Browne
wrote: Owamanga wrote: You missed the killer, the big one, the real reason for fast sync: It lets you fill-flash in broad daylight, dark Churches or anywhere in between. I have no prob fill flashing in broad daylight for most compos, I just dial the flash comp back to -0.5 to -2 and I'm set. The brighter it is, the less fill (no automation there, you have to judge it). For dark interiors where I want to fill in BG light (the inevitable X-mas tree portrits) I just use slow sync or manually set flash and ambient xposures. Get it all. For very shallow DOF, I have HSS, and I can fill flash and frezze motion at the same pump. And/or ND's (but that's bit tedious). I'm surprised you have the flash power needed to use HSS in full daylight. Here's a typical example where I use it on the D70: (Quick gander at the EXIF data from last weekend...) Shooting a backlit bird (a young egret) wading, with a 300mm lens at a distance of about 15-20 ft under 4.00pm Florida Sunshine at 1/500th F11 (ISO was set to a fast 650) In this situation, the 1/500th is a minimum due to the rather wobbly platform I was on (as was the tripod) and effective 450mm lens (Thus the high ISO setting). The distance I have no control of, not wanting to swim with the gators, so the flash either works at my 'forced' exposure restrictions or it doesn't. I can't see HSS working here, the distance is out of my control and power required would be too high. HSS is also useful for bringing the GN of the flash WAY down when the flash comp is not enough. 1/4000 and that flash is sucked dry and probably falls on less than 5% of the film at any time during the shot. ...I'll take your word for it. I've yet to come across a situation where a 3 stop -EV hasn't been enough, I've heard others complain though. A shutterbug article for those who are not convinced: http://www.shutterbug.net/features/1100sb_using/ (A rear sync is useful to capture the motion at lower shutter speeds and freeze the ambient movement at the end of the full frame exposure cycle). Yes, and a rear curtain flash prevents the flash-flinching of fast responding animals or children from being part of the exposure (assumes camera doesn't use pre-flash for metering or anti-redeye gizmo). I shoot manual exp/manual flash when I want effects, so no-preflash. I just got the Maxxum 7D and the ADI / pre-flash is very noticeable and I'm wondering about the total shutter lag now. Pre-flash in iTTL mode on the D70 annoys me for the same reason. When using iTTL I now use the pre-metering method where you allow it to do a pre-flash by stabbing the AE-L button and it remembers the required exposure & power for as many shots you want to take at those settings. -- Owamanga! |
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