Getting white right inside the camera with a broad distribution across the histogram

I have placed examples he
http://photoviki.com/albums/userpics...Blocks40mm.jpg
and he
http://photoviki.com/albums/userpics...ocks40mmWB.jpg
Or if that doesn't work you can use the gallery view he
http://photoviki.com/index.php?cat=10196
and look at the similar photos named Blocks40mmx

I am using the Canon 300d. The yellow shot is the before (as it comes
out of the camera). After I take the shot I load it into the Canon
'Fileviewer' utility and use the dropper tool to set the white point.
Then I transfer the image to PS Elements v2. Then in 'Elements' I add
a levels layer then drag the individual R G and B sliders to where the
information begins, both on the darks side and the light side. In this
particular case all of the information is in the middle of the
histogram with flat areas both on the dark side and the light side.
You can see the result. The picture is yellow before and white after.
The blocks were painted using 'Titanium White' acrylic (very white) and
lit using a tungsten spot with the iris stopped way way down. I have
to close it a lot to get the crips shadows. Here are the camera
settings:
RAW
ISO 100 (the Canon 300d will only go to 100)
The shutter is open for 10 seconds
The aperture is set to 10 to get the blocks and the shadows in focus
The White Balance is set to tungsten. I have tried custom but it gets
me the same yellow so I have to use the dropper to set white before the
transfer so it is my understanding that WB does not matter. Is that
true?

Is there any way to get the camera to produce white inside the camera?
Is it me or the camera? If it is the camera what needs to be better?
Is it the ISO only going to 100 that is the problem? Is there some way
for me to get the camera to spread the information across more of the
histogram?

Sorry for complicating what is probably a simple issue and thank you
very much for looking into it.

Ron

wrote in message
ups.com...
I have placed examples he
http://photoviki.com/albums/userpics...Blocks40mm.jpg
and he
http://photoviki.com/albums/userpics...ocks40mmWB.jpg
Or if that doesn't work you can use the gallery view he
http://photoviki.com/index.php?cat=10196
and look at the similar photos named Blocks40mmx

I am using the Canon 300d. The yellow shot is the before (as it comes
out of the camera). After I take the shot I load it into the Canon
'Fileviewer' utility and use the dropper tool to set the white point.
Then I transfer the image to PS Elements v2. Then in 'Elements' I add
a levels layer then drag the individual R G and B sliders to where the
information begins, both on the darks side and the light side. In this
particular case all of the information is in the middle of the
histogram with flat areas both on the dark side and the light side.
You can see the result. The picture is yellow before and white after.
The blocks were painted using 'Titanium White' acrylic (very white) and
lit using a tungsten spot with the iris stopped way way down. I have
to close it a lot to get the crips shadows. Here are the camera
settings:
RAW
ISO 100 (the Canon 300d will only go to 100)
The shutter is open for 10 seconds
The aperture is set to 10 to get the blocks and the shadows in focus
The White Balance is set to tungsten. I have tried custom but it gets
me the same yellow so I have to use the dropper to set white before the
transfer so it is my understanding that WB does not matter. Is that
true?

Is there any way to get the camera to produce white inside the camera?
Is it me or the camera? If it is the camera what needs to be better?
Is it the ISO only going to 100 that is the problem? Is there some way
for me to get the camera to spread the information across more of the
histogram?

Sorry for complicating what is probably a simple issue and thank you
very much for looking into it.

Ron

Hi

I don't really understand your problem, or what you are attempting to
achieve or prove.

I tried to look at your pictures, but don't have broadband and could not be
bothered to wait while a whole page of stuff downloaded.

It strikes me, that photographing white blocks and their shadows, under
Tungsten lighting (yellow/red in colour) would not prove anything about your
cameras colour fidelity. (If that is what you are about.)

Using RAW to do so, only ensures that no WB correction will be applied to
the image in camera, and you will make the correction during the conversion
process.

This means that a yellow image before correction and a white one after is
pretty much what anyone would expect.

The whole point of shooting in RAW is to ensure that inbuilt camera
corrections are NOT applied, and making these is left to the photographers
skill and experience at the time the conversions are being made.

How does the camera perform when using real world subjects, with a good
range of colours, tones and shadows of various depths?

After, of course, you have applied that certain amount of post processing,
which makes the difference between keen photographers and the snapshotting
public, ( who still keep the sun over their left shoulder as instructed by
Kodak in the 1930s)

Roy G