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10.5 f2.8 & correcting software
Anyone using Nikon's 10.5 f2.8 lens with the correcting software?
Everything I've seen on the lense is based around a composition closeup of a building, motorcycle etc. which is then corrected with the software. What you're left with is a shot you could've taken with a 50 MM lense if you stepped back a few few. What I'm more interested in is how does it do with background and side correction in a tight situation. More specifically I'm thinking of boat interiors where you want to give a proper sense of space by shooting from one end of cabin, from inside an open doorway etc. Fisheyes of course, always give the noticable distortion and anyone in the boating industry automatically discounts the shot as a distortion. A corrected shot could work extremely well with cabin proportions easily fleshed out from porthole sizes, stairways, etc. An example might be a salon 15 feet by 15 feet or cabin 6 feet by 8 feet. Another problem is that there will rarely be any true straight lines to reference on if the software depends on that to correct the shot. If you can imagine a narrowing bow with cabins on either side that are sort of triangular in shape witht the hypotenuese being a curve. Anyway real interesting lense but I'm a little hesitant to drop 600 bucks and find out it's a one trick pony. |
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wrote:
Anyone using Nikon's 10.5 f2.8 lens with the correcting software? I have the lens, but not the software. Everything I've seen on the lense is based around a composition closeup of a building, motorcycle etc. which is then corrected with the software. What you're left with is a shot you could've taken with a 50 MM lense if you stepped back a few few. Not sure what you're expecting; it's converting the image to a rectilinear projection, so it ends up being the same as you'd get with a regular lens, just with softer corners due to the interpolation. What I'm more interested in is how does it do with background and side correction in a tight situation. The conversion just gives you what you would get from a super-wide lens that isn't a fisheye. Obviously you lose a lot of the angle of view; you end up with probably the equivalent of 12 or 13mm rectilinear, but that's just a guess. Another problem is that there will rarely be any true straight lines to reference on if the software depends on that to correct the shot. It doesn't depend on anything; it converts the fisheye projection to a rectilinear one based on the known mathematical properties. Anyway real interesting lense but I'm a little hesitant to drop 600 bucks and find out it's a one trick pony. Don't buy it just to use it with the conversion software; go for the 12-24mm instead. You'll get the same field of view (maybe even wider), and better quality. The fisheye is best used as a fisheye. -- Jeremy | |
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wrote in message
oups.com... Anyone using Nikon's 10.5 f2.8 lens with the correcting software? Everything I've seen on the lense is based around a composition closeup of a building, motorcycle etc. which is then corrected with the software. What you're left with is a shot you could've taken with a 50 MM lense if you stepped back a few few. What I'm more interested in is how does it do with background and side correction in a tight situation. More specifically I'm thinking of boat interiors where you want to give a proper sense of space by shooting from one end of cabin, from inside an open doorway etc. Fisheyes of course, always give the noticable distortion and anyone in the boating industry automatically discounts the shot as a distortion. A corrected shot could work extremely well with cabin proportions easily fleshed out from porthole sizes, stairways, etc. An example might be a salon 15 feet by 15 feet or cabin 6 feet by 8 feet. Another problem is that there will rarely be any true straight lines to reference on if the software depends on that to correct the shot. If you can imagine a narrowing bow with cabins on either side that are sort of triangular in shape witht the hypotenuese being a curve. Anyway real interesting lense but I'm a little hesitant to drop 600 bucks and find out it's a one trick pony. Well, I like it. Nikon f/2.8 10.5 fisheye, defished with Nikon Capture 4.03: http://66.51.108.232/photogallery/20...0Tower%207.jpg http://66.51.108.232/photogallery/20...%20Columns.jpg http://66.51.108.232/photogallery/20...iomphe%204.jpg Greg |
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On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 21:17:33 -0000, Jeremy Nixon
wrote: Don't buy it just to use it with the conversion software; go for the 12-24mm instead. You'll get the same field of view (maybe even wider), and better quality. The fisheye is best used as a fisheye. If you have used it you must know that there is a huge difference between the FOV of the 10.5mm and 12-24mm. I just took a couple of shots to verify it. According to Nikon the FOV with the 10.5 is 180 degrees, the FOV with the 12mm setting on the 12-24 is 99 degrees. Almost double. So if you lose a little correcting the verticals it's still well worth it. |
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McLeod wrote:
If you have used it you must know that there is a huge difference between the FOV of the 10.5mm and 12-24mm. I just took a couple of shots to verify it. According to Nikon the FOV with the 10.5 is 180 degrees, the FOV with the 12mm setting on the 12-24 is 99 degrees. Almost double. So if you lose a little correcting the verticals it's still well worth it. If you convert the fisheye to rectilinear you lose the edges of the picture and the result is about the same field of view as a 12-13mm lens. You will only get the 180 degree field of view if you *don't* perform the "correction". -- Jeremy | |
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We're at the core of the issue and much better put than my original.
The promo type shots i've seen all emphasize the correcting ability and use big buildings etc. Does anyone know anywhere online where there might be some comparison photos targeting a tighter, busier interior space. The softening has me concerned as boat interiors are usually composed of brightly varnished woods. wood carving, accents etc., The f2.8 allows for lesser lighting on a static shot eliminating some of the need for dealing with glare with all of the varnished woods, polished brass and nickel etc. I'm also new to digital and have almost never shot with less than a 35mm lense so superwides and the 35mm format factor have me flustered a bit. I borrowed a friend's 28mm PC lense with some film many years ago and that's as close as I got to really wide angles. The boat interior thing is new but I work in that field already in other capacities. Thanks for the input. |
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