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#1
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Wierd edge development on 120 film
Just developed my first roll of 120 and the result has some serious
issues. There are large yellow blotches and most of the negs look kind of mottled which I guess might before a fix related issue. The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. I've developed around 6 rolls of 35mm with ilfosol-s 1:9 with no problems at all. For this film (fp4+ rated at EI50) I used ilford perceptol 1:3 and agfa agefix for fixer which I have never used before. Their datashet said to only fix for 30secs which seems very short. Any ideas what is causing these problems? Good thing I dev'ed an unimportant roll to test... |
#2
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Mark
Wierd edge development on 120 film .. The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. Possible the film was loaded in the bright light. Gets me once in a whil also. Bob AZ USA |
#3
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Mark
Wierd edge development on 120 film .. The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. Possible the film was loaded in the bright light. Gets me once in a whil also. Bob AZ USA |
#4
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On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 16:41:10 +0000, RWatson767 wrote:
Wierd edge development on 120 film The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. Possible the film was loaded in the bright light. Yes, that would be my first guess as well, though it is difficult to tell without seeing them. 120 film isnt the best light sealed thing, nowhere near as good as 35mm, so if the roll has come slightly loose, it does allow a small amount of light to creep round the edges when loading. At least you didnt do what I did a few months ago - I loaded the film the wrong way round, and only realised when I took the film out.Luckily I was taking pics of an old cathedral, and still had time to retake the ones I'd already 'lost'. Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. http://www.dvatc.co.uk - Off-road cycling in the North Midlands. |
#5
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On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 16:41:10 +0000, RWatson767 wrote:
Wierd edge development on 120 film The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. Possible the film was loaded in the bright light. Yes, that would be my first guess as well, though it is difficult to tell without seeing them. 120 film isnt the best light sealed thing, nowhere near as good as 35mm, so if the roll has come slightly loose, it does allow a small amount of light to creep round the edges when loading. At least you didnt do what I did a few months ago - I loaded the film the wrong way round, and only realised when I took the film out.Luckily I was taking pics of an old cathedral, and still had time to retake the ones I'd already 'lost'. Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. http://www.dvatc.co.uk - Off-road cycling in the North Midlands. |
#6
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Mark Liddell wrote:
Just developed my first roll of 120 and the result has some serious issues. There are large yellow blotches and most of the negs look kind of mottled which I guess might before a fix related issue. The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. I've developed around 6 rolls of 35mm with ilfosol-s 1:9 with no problems at all. For this film (fp4+ rated at EI50) I used ilford perceptol 1:3 and agfa agefix for fixer which I have never used before. Their datashet said to only fix for 30secs which seems very short. Any ideas what is causing these problems? Good thing I dev'ed an unimportant roll to test... That 30 second fix time is just nuts. Do a clearing time test, and fix for at least three times and no more than ten times the clearing time (which, for most films in rapid fixer at film strength, will normally be around a minute). You need to refix, and all your problems will be solved. -- The challenge to the photographer is to command the medium, to use whatever current equipment and technology furthers his creative objectives, without sacrificing the ability to make his own decisions. -- Ansel Adams Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer http://silent1.home.netcom.com Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#7
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Mark Liddell wrote:
Just developed my first roll of 120 and the result has some serious issues. There are large yellow blotches and most of the negs look kind of mottled which I guess might before a fix related issue. The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. I've developed around 6 rolls of 35mm with ilfosol-s 1:9 with no problems at all. For this film (fp4+ rated at EI50) I used ilford perceptol 1:3 and agfa agefix for fixer which I have never used before. Their datashet said to only fix for 30secs which seems very short. Any ideas what is causing these problems? Good thing I dev'ed an unimportant roll to test... That 30 second fix time is just nuts. Do a clearing time test, and fix for at least three times and no more than ten times the clearing time (which, for most films in rapid fixer at film strength, will normally be around a minute). You need to refix, and all your problems will be solved. -- The challenge to the photographer is to command the medium, to use whatever current equipment and technology furthers his creative objectives, without sacrificing the ability to make his own decisions. -- Ansel Adams Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer http://silent1.home.netcom.com Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#8
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Just re-checked the fix time on agfa's site. 6-8 mins not 30secs for
1:7 diluation, I looked at details for the wrong fixer! oops. Doesn't explain the edges though, but could have been while loading the film as suggested by you guys. I'll shoot another roll tomorrow and try again... -- Mark That 30 second fix time is just nuts. Do a clearing time test, and fix for at least three times and no more than ten times the clearing time (which, for most films in rapid fixer at film strength, will normally be around a minute). You need to refix, and all your problems will be solved. -- The challenge to the photographer is to command the medium, to use whatever current equipment and technology furthers his creative objectives, without sacrificing the ability to make his own decisions. -- Ansel Adams Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer http://silent1.home.netcom.com Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#9
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Just re-checked the fix time on agfa's site. 6-8 mins not 30secs for
1:7 diluation, I looked at details for the wrong fixer! oops. Doesn't explain the edges though, but could have been while loading the film as suggested by you guys. I'll shoot another roll tomorrow and try again... -- Mark That 30 second fix time is just nuts. Do a clearing time test, and fix for at least three times and no more than ten times the clearing time (which, for most films in rapid fixer at film strength, will normally be around a minute). You need to refix, and all your problems will be solved. -- The challenge to the photographer is to command the medium, to use whatever current equipment and technology furthers his creative objectives, without sacrificing the ability to make his own decisions. -- Ansel Adams Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer http://silent1.home.netcom.com Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. |
#10
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"Donald Qualls" wrote in message ... Mark Liddell wrote: Just developed my first roll of 120 and the result has some serious issues. There are large yellow blotches and most of the negs look kind of mottled which I guess might before a fix related issue. The edge on one side of every frame have the same clear pattern on them, though the very edge where the frame numbers are on is fine. I've developed around 6 rolls of 35mm with ilfosol-s 1:9 with no problems at all. For this film (fp4+ rated at EI50) I used ilford perceptol 1:3 and agfa agefix for fixer which I have never used before. Their datashet said to only fix for 30secs which seems very short. Any ideas what is causing these problems? Good thing I dev'ed an unimportant roll to test... That 30 second fix time is just nuts. Do a clearing time test, and fix for at least three times and no more than ten times the clearing time (which, for most films in rapid fixer at film strength, will normally be around a minute). You need to refix, and all your problems will be solved. HP-4 is a conventional emulsion. It should fix out in twice the clearing time. Some tabular grain films may need more to fix out completely but I've not seen any real substantiation of this. In any case more than three times the clearing time is unecessary. For film strength rapid fixer the clearing time for conventional emulsions should be on the order of one to three minutes and total fixing time on the order of double that. I completely agree with maing a clearing test but advise soaking the test film in water for a couple of minutes. The reason is that wet film fixes at a different rate than dry film. Early researchers into the optimum concentration of thiosulfate ran into this effect. The found a value of thiosulfate where the fixing time appeared to be a minimum. Later research showed that this was an effect of fixing dry film. When wet there was no optimum and fixing continued to become shorter with increasing concentration. Also, refix the film, it should clear. Also, treat it in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, as directed, after the refixing. This may help to remove some fixing reaction products which are not converted to a soluble form if refixing is not within about 48 hours of the original fixing process. Wash as directed on the wash aid package. Fixing time varies with the emulsion for any type of fixer. Very slow chloride emulsions, as found in contact paper like Kodak Azo, fix out very rapidly. Fast film emulsions, which have a lot of silver iodide in them, fix out very slowly even in rapid fixer. It may be the high iodide content of T-Max and Delta films which makes them slow to fix out. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
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