So my friend gives me this box. (no, not spam).

Some Dude wrote:

Hi Laura,

Thanks for doing research for me.

What I meant by "how to develop the film" wasn't to say I am going to
ship it out. Afterall, this is a darkroom newsgroup I am curious
as to what *chemicals* and times to use to develop such a film.

Based on my experience with found film, I'm going to suggest HC-110
because of its good antifoggant and otherwise generic nature. If it
were mine, I'd use Dilution H (half of Dilution B, 1:63 from USA syrup
or 1:15 from stock solution) for the equivalent of ten minutes at 68 F
-- though I find most folks seem to develop longer than I do (which is
probably an artifact of how I start and stop my timer); in any case, I'd
go for about twice the normal Dilution B time for current Tri-X, which I
recall as being around 5 minutes. Doubling that time in half the
developer strength will give a slight push, and ought to compensate for
latent image deterioration in a minimum of about 30 years (since Kodak
quit selling that film in metal cans) and more likely up to about 50
years ("Super Speed Safety Film" puts it before Royal-X, which was IIRC
introduced in the early 1960s). Tri-X is known for getting foggy over
time, and you'll probably just have to print through some fog; the push
will help compensate for the loss of contrast due to the age fog (that
HC-110 can't completely suppress).

Concentration shouldn't be a problem, but when diluting HC-110, make
sure each 135-36 film equivalent gets at least 3 ml of concentrate. For
your 20 exposure roll in a 35 mm stainless tank, you could use Dilution
G if you choose and not come up short; that dilution would require
around 20 minutes at 68 F. BTW, the more you dilute HC-110, the more
grain you're get, but also the more acutance.

--
I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

So I get my HC-110 solution setup and so I go dark and pop the 35mm
cannister and guess what..

NO FILM IN IT.

game over, man, game over.

so sad.

Guess the guy that shotthe film had a tendency to keep the cannisters
and containers.

Some Dude wrote:

So I get my HC-110 solution setup and so I go dark and pop the 35mm
cannister and guess what..

NO FILM IN IT.

game over, man, game over.

so sad.

Guess the guy that shotthe film had a tendency to keep the cannisters
and containers.


Sigh.

Which is why I always load the film into the tank before mixing anything
-- why mix up chemicals when some snag (and yours is only one of many
possible ones) will keep you from developing?

--
I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

Yeah hindsight, et al..Its a good point moving forward though..I
suppose you could say I was preparing everything in advance for an
eventuality that never occurred

Thanks for the tips...Too bad I didn't score this time...





Sigh.

Which is why I always load the film into the tank before mixing anything
-- why mix up chemicals when some snag (and yours is only one of many
possible ones) will keep you from developing?

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Yeah hindsight, et al..Its a good point moving forward though..I
suppose you could say I was preparing everything in advance for an
eventuality that never occurred

Thanks for the tips...Too bad I didn't score this time...





Sigh.

Which is why I always load the film into the tank before mixing anything
-- why mix up chemicals when some snag (and yours is only one of many
possible ones) will keep you from developing?

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Yeah hindsight, et al..Its a good point moving forward though..I
suppose you could say I was preparing everything in advance for an
eventuality that never occurred

Thanks for the tips...Too bad I didn't score this time...





Sigh.

Which is why I always load the film into the tank before mixing anything
-- why mix up chemicals when some snag (and yours is only one of many
possible ones) will keep you from developing?

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Some Dude wrote:
Yeah hindsight, et al..Its a good point moving forward though..I
suppose you could say I was preparing everything in advance for an
eventuality that never occurred

Thanks for the tips...Too bad I didn't score this time...





Sigh.

Which is why I always load the film into the tank before mixing anything
-- why mix up chemicals when some snag (and yours is only one of many
possible ones) will keep you from developing?


Of course, the other side of loading the film first is that if you run
out of time and don't get it processed right away, there's a hazard of
forgetting what was in the tank. So, I also stick a piece of masking
tape on the tank and write the film type and EI rating on the tape, so
if it takes me a week or more to get around to processing, I won't
process old TX thinking it was TMY, or four rolls of 35 mm thinking it
was two rolls of 120 in the same tank (the latter important if using
very dilute developers, as I often do).

--
I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

Some Dude wrote:
Yeah hindsight, et al..Its a good point moving forward though..I
suppose you could say I was preparing everything in advance for an
eventuality that never occurred

Thanks for the tips...Too bad I didn't score this time...





Sigh.

Which is why I always load the film into the tank before mixing anything
-- why mix up chemicals when some snag (and yours is only one of many
possible ones) will keep you from developing?


Of course, the other side of loading the film first is that if you run
out of time and don't get it processed right away, there's a hazard of
forgetting what was in the tank. So, I also stick a piece of masking
tape on the tank and write the film type and EI rating on the tape, so
if it takes me a week or more to get around to processing, I won't
process old TX thinking it was TMY, or four rolls of 35 mm thinking it
was two rolls of 120 in the same tank (the latter important if using
very dilute developers, as I often do).

--
I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

Gee, that's the way I remember Tri-X from the early 1960's. Metal can,
screw top. The film casette end caps will pop off and it is reusable. From
long before they changed to crimped end plates you have to open with pliers.
Probably find a thick emulsion too. Great film. Develop as for Tri-X, but
you might want to compensate for expected fog level being higher.

M. T. Sandford

Gee, that's the way I remember Tri-X from the early 1960's. Metal can,
screw top. The film casette end caps will pop off and it is reusable. From
long before they changed to crimped end plates you have to open with pliers.
Probably find a thick emulsion too. Great film. Develop as for Tri-X, but
you might want to compensate for expected fog level being higher.

M. T. Sandford