MF & Technical Pan, looking for optimum sharpness

Jim Phelps writes:

5 minutes and it takes a set. Wow, I know Tech Pan has a thinner and
therefore an assumed more fragile base, but I would have also thought it to
be more flexible. Stranger things.

Note that film that can take a set in five minutes can also lose a set
in five minutes. So wind the film and then wait five minutes or so.

--
Transpose hotmail and mxsmanic in my e-mail address to reach me directly.

"Philippe Lauwers"

You may wish to trade off shallow DOF for increased diffusion.
I have'nt taken much notice of that but think out of focus conditions
will much more blur an image than the effects of diffusion.
BTW, Tech Pan has a normal spectral sensitivity but much extended
at the red end. You probably knew that. Dan

In article ,
(Hemi4268) wrote:

Actually, I did some test on this using Tech-pan. The film will "set" in as
little as 5 minutes. It's very visable on the second frame with some on the
third. To be visable, you must use resolution targets and a 20x loupe to see
it.

I have this image of Hemi on the top of a mountain overlooking Yellowstone
- photographing a rez chart.

Hi

Well maybe not Yellowstone but at least 50 such targets are located all over
Edwards AFB. Each being about the size of a house.

Larry

"Philippe Lauwers" wrote in message li.nl...
Hello,

The last few weeks I've been shooting landscapes with a Hasselblad 503CW,
using a CFE 2.8/80 mm- lens and TMX. Now that I've finally decided on how to
build my compositions, I'm considering to start all over again using
Technical Pan. For most pictures, the lens is stopped down to f11 or more.

As you probably suspect from the combination medium-format / Technical Pan,
I'll be trying to get the most out of my camera/film combination in terms of
detail, sharpness, ...


F/11 won't get it, and Tech Pan won't get it. Use a medium-speed film
like FP4 or TMX. Tech Pan won't give you good tonality, and the
smallest apertures suffer from diffraction.

On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:22:40 -0500, "jjs" wrote:

Oof the reasons I just friggin hate Kodak's T-Grain films is because
it is the worst combination of 'kinda' fine grain without a chance of edge
sharpness.

Try TMX and Rodinal 1:100 for 19min at 70F


Regards,

John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com
Please remove the "_" when replying via email

In article , John
wrote:

Try TMX and Rodinal 1:100 for 19min at 70F

Thanks, John. I will consider it when I finish off the Agfa APX.

(jjs) wrote in message ...
In article , John
wrote:

Try TMX and Rodinal 1:100 for 19min at 70F

Thanks, John. I will consider it when I finish off the Agfa APX.

Acutol and FP4 will obliterate TMX and Rodinal.

"Michael Scarpitti" wrote in message
om...
(jjs) wrote in message
...
In article , John
wrote:

Try TMX and Rodinal 1:100 for 19min at 70F

Thanks, John. I will consider it when I finish off the Agfa APX.

Acutol and FP4 will obliterate TMX and Rodinal.

The subject was how to get apparent (perceived) sharpness via edge effects
from TM films. Acutol vs. Rodinal is a religious argument that I won't even
entertain.

"jjs" wrote in message ...
"Michael Scarpitti" wrote in message
om...
(jjs) wrote in message
...
In article , John
wrote:

Try TMX and Rodinal 1:100 for 19min at 70F

Thanks, John. I will consider it when I finish off the Agfa APX.

Acutol and FP4 will obliterate TMX and Rodinal.

The subject was how to get apparent (perceived) sharpness via edge effects
from TM films. Acutol vs. Rodinal is a religious argument that I won't even
entertain.

TMX film, like other T-Max films, has poor edge sharpness.