Fuji Hunt or Tetenal for E-6??

Hello,

I'd like to process E-6 in my home darkroom, but I'm not sure which
chemcals to use. There are Fuji Hunt and Tetenal available on the market
and it's prices are very close. I mostly shoot Fuji slides, so Fuji Hunt
should be natural choice, but as we all know, it's not nescesary always
true. So what is your experience?? And maybe there is no difference
between them?? And if there is no difference maybe one of them have longer
shelf life?? I shoot about 2 rolls per month so shelf life is is important
too.

--
Pozdrufka,
¯urek GG# 371288

¯urek a écrit :
Hello,

I'd like to process E-6 in my home darkroom, but I'm not sure which
chemcals to use. There are Fuji Hunt and Tetenal available on the market
and it's prices are very close. I mostly shoot Fuji slides, so Fuji Hunt
should be natural choice, but as we all know, it's not nescesary always
true. So what is your experience?? And maybe there is no difference
between them?? And if there is no difference maybe one of them have longer
shelf life?? I shoot about 2 rolls per month so shelf life is is important
too.


I can't help you on the Fuji versus Tetenal debate as I use the Kodak
5-liters 6-baths one-shot kit.

For consistent results, I strongly suggest you use a one-shot kit.

Regarding the shelf life, here is what I do:
I don't dilute the whole kit but keep it in concentrate form.
Once the kit open, I put the first developer (the most sensible to
aging) into separate brown glass bottles (pharmacy type).
As the Kodak kit used with 15xx Jobo drums let me develop 8 rolls in one
liter of developer and I need 200ml of concentrate, I decided to use
200ml bottles.
I fill the bottles with exactly 200ml of concentrate and complete with
distilled water up to the neck so there is no air in the bottle.
When I need it, I just dilute it to obtain the final liter.
Bottles are kept in the dark at my darkroom temp.

So exposed rolls are kept in the fridge until I have 8 rolls to develop.

I can't give you a definitive shelf life as I started to use this method
with my E-6 kits only recently but I'm using it for years with Xtol
developer and have reached the 4 years longevity which is far beyond the
specs.
This test is still running as I've still a few bottles of this batch.

With Kodak E-6 kits, in the past I used a protection gaz (Protectan or a
mix of butane/propane) inside the original concentrate bottle but it
gave me only a 10 months shelf-life. As Kodak's kit lets you develop 40
135-36 rolls it may not be enough for low production.

I'm not sure whether it is interesting to develop yourself your slides
for only a couple of rolls per month.
You may try to find a good lab instead.

Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch

Po¶wiêcaj±c chwilkê wolnego czasu Claudio Bonavolta naskroba³(-a):

I can't help you on the Fuji versus Tetenal debate as I use the Kodak
5-liters 6-baths one-shot kit.

6-bath Kodak kit is unavailable in my country (Poland) so I consider Fuji
and Tetenal only.

For consistent results, I strongly suggest you use a one-shot kit.

Yes I know. I'm planning to use it as one-shot kits - 0.4l of solution for
2 rolls. Maybe it's a waste of chemistry as its possible to do 5 rolls in
0.4l, but it's still cheaper and, I hope, better than in a pro lab.

Regarding the shelf life, here is what I do:
I don't dilute the whole kit but keep it in concentrate form.
Once the kit open, I put the first developer (the most sensible to
aging) into separate brown glass bottles (pharmacy type).
As the Kodak kit used with 15xx Jobo drums let me develop 8 rolls in one
liter of developer and I need 200ml of concentrate, I decided to use
200ml bottles.
I fill the bottles with exactly 200ml of concentrate and complete with
distilled water up to the neck so there is no air in the bottle.
When I need it, I just dilute it to obtain the final liter.
Bottles are kept in the dark at my darkroom temp.

Great idea! Earlier I thought about filling bottles with propane-butane
but your idea is perfect. I only need to buy, some pharmacy bottles. They
shouldn't be expensive.

I'm not sure whether it is interesting to develop yourself your slides
for only a couple of rolls per month.
You may try to find a good lab instead.

I'm a hobbyist, so I'd like to do it for my pleasure. And if I will have
better results than from a lab, it'll be great.



--
Pozdrufka,
¯urek GG# 371288

¯urek wrote:
Po¶wiêcaj±c chwilkê wolnego czasu Claudio Bonavolta naskroba³(-a):

I can't help you on the Fuji versus Tetenal debate as I use the Kodak
5-liters 6-baths one-shot kit.

6-bath Kodak kit is unavailable in my country (Poland) so I consider Fuji
and Tetenal only.

For consistent results, I strongly suggest you use a one-shot kit.

Yes I know. I'm planning to use it as one-shot kits - 0.4l of solution for
2 rolls. Maybe it's a waste of chemistry as its possible to do 5 rolls in
0.4l, but it's still cheaper and, I hope, better than in a pro lab.

Regarding the shelf life, here is what I do:
I don't dilute the whole kit but keep it in concentrate form.
Once the kit open, I put the first developer (the most sensible to
aging) into separate brown glass bottles (pharmacy type).
As the Kodak kit used with 15xx Jobo drums let me develop 8 rolls in one
liter of developer and I need 200ml of concentrate, I decided to use
200ml bottles.
I fill the bottles with exactly 200ml of concentrate and complete with
distilled water up to the neck so there is no air in the bottle.
When I need it, I just dilute it to obtain the final liter.
Bottles are kept in the dark at my darkroom temp.

Great idea! Earlier I thought about filling bottles with propane-butane
but your idea is perfect. I only need to buy, some pharmacy bottles. They
shouldn't be expensive.

I'm not sure whether it is interesting to develop yourself your slides
for only a couple of rolls per month.
You may try to find a good lab instead.

I'm a hobbyist, so I'd like to do it for my pleasure. And if I will have
better results than from a lab, it'll be great.



You might also ask around and see if some other photographers in your
area are shooting slide film, split the cost and the labor of processing
your slides and getting your volume of production up to a more cost
effective figure. Not only is do-it-yourself processing fun, it can be
financially rewarding and the final product of higher quality than many
labs are capable of producing. Case in point: my local E-6 lab uses a
roller transport machine which deposits "gunk" (technical term) on my
slides and his rollers. Dried gunk on his rollers can also scratch
film. And since I shoot 120 more often than 35mm my wider film travels
to parts of his machine that the narrower 35mm rolls do not and that
yields even more gunk and scratches.

--
darkroommike

In article ,
writes:

I'd like to process E-6 in my home darkroom, but I'm not sure which
chemcals to use. There are Fuji Hunt and Tetenal available on the market
and it's prices are very close. I mostly shoot Fuji slides, so Fuji Hunt
should be natural choice, but as we all know, it's not nescesary always
true. So what is your experience?? And maybe there is no difference
between them?? And if there is no difference maybe one of them have longer
shelf life?? I shoot about 2 rolls per month so shelf life is is important
too.

If I'm not mistaken, the Fuji-Hunt chemistry is a 6-bath process, whereas
Tetenal makes both 3- and 6-bath kits. The 3-bath kits are simpler to use,
but some people insist they can see a difference in quality between the
two types. You should also check on the number of bottles in the package.
Put simply, the more the better from a shelf life perspective; if the
manufacturer splits components up into multiple bottles, it's likely done
to keep it from going bad. If the same chemicals are put in the same
bottles, they may react and the solution as a whole will go bad more
quickly. I've had this happen with a Paterson 3-bath kit that came in
(IIRC) 5 or 6 bottles; it went bad within about 3 months of my opening it.
Kodak's 6-bath kit, which ships in something like a dozen bottles, lasts
longer than this, but I don't know its real-world limits. OTOH, more
bottles means more hassle when mixing your chemicals for use, along with a
greater chance of error when measuring the chemicals.

--
Rod Smith,
http://www.rodsbooks.com
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking

Right and some kits facilitate dividing and others are a real pain to
divide when mixing smaller quantities.
darkroommike

Rod Smith wrote:
In article ,
writes:
I'd like to process E-6 in my home darkroom, but I'm not sure which
chemcals to use. There are Fuji Hunt and Tetenal available on the market
and it's prices are very close. I mostly shoot Fuji slides, so Fuji Hunt
should be natural choice, but as we all know, it's not nescesary always
true. So what is your experience?? And maybe there is no difference
between them?? And if there is no difference maybe one of them have longer
shelf life?? I shoot about 2 rolls per month so shelf life is is important
too.

If I'm not mistaken, the Fuji-Hunt chemistry is a 6-bath process, whereas
Tetenal makes both 3- and 6-bath kits. The 3-bath kits are simpler to use,
but some people insist they can see a difference in quality between the
two types. You should also check on the number of bottles in the package.
Put simply, the more the better from a shelf life perspective; if the
manufacturer splits components up into multiple bottles, it's likely done
to keep it from going bad. If the same chemicals are put in the same
bottles, they may react and the solution as a whole will go bad more
quickly. I've had this happen with a Paterson 3-bath kit that came in
(IIRC) 5 or 6 bottles; it went bad within about 3 months of my opening it.
Kodak's 6-bath kit, which ships in something like a dozen bottles, lasts
longer than this, but I don't know its real-world limits. OTOH, more
bottles means more hassle when mixing your chemicals for use, along with a
greater chance of error when measuring the chemicals.

"Rod Smith" wrote in message
news
If I'm not mistaken, the Fuji-Hunt chemistry is a 6-bath process, whereas
Tetenal makes both 3- and 6-bath kits. The 3-bath kits are simpler to use,
but some people insist they can see a difference in quality between the
two types. You should also check on the number of bottles in the package.
Put simply, the more the better from a shelf life perspective; if the
manufacturer splits components up into multiple bottles, it's likely done
to keep it from going bad. If the same chemicals are put in the same
bottles, they may react and the solution as a whole will go bad more
quickly. I've had this happen with a Paterson 3-bath kit that came in
(IIRC) 5 or 6 bottles; it went bad within about 3 months of my opening it.
Kodak's 6-bath kit, which ships in something like a dozen bottles, lasts
longer than this, but I don't know its real-world limits. OTOH, more
bottles means more hassle when mixing your chemicals for use, along with a
greater chance of error when measuring the chemicals.


When I bought my 5L Colortec Tetenal 3-bath E6 I was advised to use a
preservative spray into the colour dev bottle after extracting what I needed
for use. (I queried why the advice didn't also apply to the 1st. dev. and
was advised that the concentrate was stable.) Unfortunately, having gone
digital since my E6 days, I can't advise whether the advice was sound in the
longer term! Seem to remember having no problems upto a year after purchase
and 1st. opening.

--
M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK



--
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