B&W film question

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 10:50:00 -0230, "Reany"
wrote:

"John" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 10:08:37 -0230, "Reany"
wrote:

My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
film would you recommend as a substitute?

What formats are you shooting ? IT-Max 100 (TMX)is available
in a broad range of formats and is an excellent film to start with.

Oops... 35mm

I would recommend using both of the T-Max films from Kodak.
TMX-100 is one of the finest-grained and sharpest films made for
pictorial use. Rate at EI50 and develop in D-23 1:1, 10 minutes at 70F
for extremely fine grain. I was amazed at the resulting image. I use a
Micromega focusing aid and the grain is so fine that I had trouble
focusing on it.

T-Max 400 (TMY) is another excellent film. It responds well to
both pushing and pulling and is IMO one of the most versatile films
I've used. At EI200 it makes a good general purpose film.

If you don't compound your own developers, I suggest
Microdol-X or D-76 as a developer.


Regards,

John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org
Please remove the "_" when replying via email

On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 10:50:00 -0230, "Reany"
wrote:

"John" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 10:08:37 -0230, "Reany"
wrote:

My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
film would you recommend as a substitute?

What formats are you shooting ? IT-Max 100 (TMX)is available
in a broad range of formats and is an excellent film to start with.

Oops... 35mm

I would recommend using both of the T-Max films from Kodak.
TMX-100 is one of the finest-grained and sharpest films made for
pictorial use. Rate at EI50 and develop in D-23 1:1, 10 minutes at 70F
for extremely fine grain. I was amazed at the resulting image. I use a
Micromega focusing aid and the grain is so fine that I had trouble
focusing on it.

T-Max 400 (TMY) is another excellent film. It responds well to
both pushing and pulling and is IMO one of the most versatile films
I've used. At EI200 it makes a good general purpose film.

If you don't compound your own developers, I suggest
Microdol-X or D-76 as a developer.


Regards,

John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org
Please remove the "_" when replying via email

"Reany" wrote in message ...
My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
film would you recommend as a substitute?

Thanks
Gary

Several good choices:

Ilford Pan-F Plus, ISO 50. Try it in Paterson Acutol 1+19 for 8
minutes @ 20C/68F.

Fotokemika KB 25 (same as the former Adox KB14). Very contrasty. Try
it in Paterson Acutol 1+22 for 7,5 minutes @ 20C/68F.

Ilford Delta 100. Try it in Paterson FX-39 1+19 for 7,5 minutes @
20C/68F. This would be my choice.

Kodak T-Max 100 is also supposed to be good, but I don't like it.

"Reany" wrote in message ...
My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
film would you recommend as a substitute?

Thanks
Gary

Several good choices:

Ilford Pan-F Plus, ISO 50. Try it in Paterson Acutol 1+19 for 8
minutes @ 20C/68F.

Fotokemika KB 25 (same as the former Adox KB14). Very contrasty. Try
it in Paterson Acutol 1+22 for 7,5 minutes @ 20C/68F.

Ilford Delta 100. Try it in Paterson FX-39 1+19 for 7,5 minutes @
20C/68F. This would be my choice.

Kodak T-Max 100 is also supposed to be good, but I don't like it.

Ah, però! Reany ha scritto due cosette forse interessanti...
My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
film would you recommend as a substitute?

Thanks
Gary

try Neopan Acros 100 or Neopan 400.
The first is better fine grained than every tmax and has a *classic*
silver performance under the enlarger. Smooth grays but will do
everything you want. No reciprocity effect until 120sec. so is gorgeous
in nightshots. I use most the times when i need a superlative 100 iso.

Neopan 400: grained as a tmax 100 but more more usable and reliable.
Excellent in every way.
Just to try and you will fall in love .

Ilford PAN F for slow speed.
Excellent grays, contrast is easily controllable by developing, nice and
sharp grain. When printed is amazing.

Ciao!!
(I absolutely prefer neopans...)

--
Non è bello cio che è bello figuriamoci cio che è brutto!

Uranium Committee wrote:
: "Reany" wrote in message ...
: My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
: again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
: film would you recommend as a substitute?
:
: Thanks
: Gary

: Several good choices:

: Ilford Pan-F Plus, ISO 50. Try it in Paterson Acutol 1+19 for 8
: minutes @ 20C/68F.

A very good film but with the financialSP? issues that Ilford is having
it may not last long even if Ilford survives.

: Fotokemika KB 25 (same as the former Adox KB14). Very contrasty. Try
: it in Paterson Acutol 1+22 for 7,5 minutes @ 20C/68F.

I've met people that like it a lot but have never had any luck with it.

: Ilford Delta 100. Try it in Paterson FX-39 1+19 for 7,5 minutes @
: 20C/68F. This would be my choice.

I spent a lot of time using Delta-100 this spring and like it a lot. I
developed it with Iloford's DDX developer diluted 1:9 at 75F. Great tonality
very good shadow detail and highlights that didn't block up.

: Kodak T-Max 100 is also supposed to be good, but I don't like it.

My personal opinion of Tmax-100 is that it's finest B&W film on the market.
For sheet film I develop it with Tmax-RS at 75F diluted 1:9 and for roll
film I develop it with Tmax at 75F diluted 1:9.

I know a couple of people that use Bergger film developed in Pyro. I've seen the
prints they make from it and they're excellent. I've seen 11x14 prints made from
35mm Bergger developed in Pyro and my first thought was that it was grainy 4x5 or
very good 6x4.5.
--




Keep working millions on welfare depend on you
-------------------

Uranium Committee wrote:
: "Reany" wrote in message ...
: My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
: again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
: film would you recommend as a substitute?
:
: Thanks
: Gary

: Several good choices:

: Ilford Pan-F Plus, ISO 50. Try it in Paterson Acutol 1+19 for 8
: minutes @ 20C/68F.

A very good film but with the financialSP? issues that Ilford is having
it may not last long even if Ilford survives.

: Fotokemika KB 25 (same as the former Adox KB14). Very contrasty. Try
: it in Paterson Acutol 1+22 for 7,5 minutes @ 20C/68F.

I've met people that like it a lot but have never had any luck with it.

: Ilford Delta 100. Try it in Paterson FX-39 1+19 for 7,5 minutes @
: 20C/68F. This would be my choice.

I spent a lot of time using Delta-100 this spring and like it a lot. I
developed it with Iloford's DDX developer diluted 1:9 at 75F. Great tonality
very good shadow detail and highlights that didn't block up.

: Kodak T-Max 100 is also supposed to be good, but I don't like it.

My personal opinion of Tmax-100 is that it's finest B&W film on the market.
For sheet film I develop it with Tmax-RS at 75F diluted 1:9 and for roll
film I develop it with Tmax at 75F diluted 1:9.

I know a couple of people that use Bergger film developed in Pyro. I've seen the
prints they make from it and they're excellent. I've seen 11x14 prints made from
35mm Bergger developed in Pyro and my first thought was that it was grainy 4x5 or
very good 6x4.5.
--




Keep working millions on welfare depend on you
-------------------

"Reany" wrote in message
...
My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
film would you recommend as a substitute?

Ilford Pan F Plus is the nearest actual equivalent.

Kodak T-Max 100 is Kodak's replacement. Try it -- it's good!

I told you I'd be watching you. Couldn't help yourself, could you?




On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 18:56:55 -0500, Frank Pittel
wrote:

Uranium Committee wrote:
: "Reany" wrote in message ...
: My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
: again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
: film would you recommend as a substitute?
:
: Thanks
: Gary

: Several good choices:

: Ilford Pan-F Plus, ISO 50. Try it in Paterson Acutol 1+19 for 8
: minutes @ 20C/68F.

A very good film but with the financialSP? issues that Ilford is having
it may not last long even if Ilford survives.

: Fotokemika KB 25 (same as the former Adox KB14). Very contrasty. Try
: it in Paterson Acutol 1+22 for 7,5 minutes @ 20C/68F.

I've met people that like it a lot but have never had any luck with it.

: Ilford Delta 100. Try it in Paterson FX-39 1+19 for 7,5 minutes @
: 20C/68F. This would be my choice.

I spent a lot of time using Delta-100 this spring and like it a lot. I
developed it with Iloford's DDX developer diluted 1:9 at 75F. Great tonality
very good shadow detail and highlights that didn't block up.

: Kodak T-Max 100 is also supposed to be good, but I don't like it.

My personal opinion of Tmax-100 is that it's finest B&W film on the market.
For sheet film I develop it with Tmax-RS at 75F diluted 1:9 and for roll
film I develop it with Tmax at 75F diluted 1:9.

I know a couple of people that use Bergger film developed in Pyro. I've seen the
prints they make from it and they're excellent. I've seen 11x14 prints made from
35mm Bergger developed in Pyro and my first thought was that it was grainy 4x5 or
very good 6x4.5.

Robert Vervoordt, MFA

Frank Pittel wrote in message ...
Uranium Committee wrote:
: "Reany" wrote in message ...
: My darkroom has been packed away for many years. I'm setting it back up
: again and I want advice on film. I used to use Kodak panatomic-x. What
: film would you recommend as a substitute?
:
: Thanks
: Gary

: Several good choices:

: Ilford Pan-F Plus, ISO 50. Try it in Paterson Acutol 1+19 for 8
: minutes @ 20C/68F.

A very good film but with the financialSP? issues that Ilford is having
it may not last long even if Ilford survives.

: Fotokemika KB 25 (same as the former Adox KB14). Very contrasty. Try
: it in Paterson Acutol 1+22 for 7,5 minutes @ 20C/68F.

I've met people that like it a lot but have never had any luck with it.

: Ilford Delta 100. Try it in Paterson FX-39 1+19 for 7,5 minutes @
: 20C/68F. This would be my choice.

I spent a lot of time using Delta-100 this spring and like it a lot. I
developed it with Iloford's DDX developer diluted 1:9 at 75F. Great tonality
very good shadow detail and highlights that didn't block up.

: Kodak T-Max 100 is also supposed to be good, but I don't like it.

My personal opinion of Tmax-100 is that it's finest B&W film on the market.
For sheet film I develop it with Tmax-RS at 75F diluted 1:9 and for roll
film I develop it with Tmax at 75F diluted 1:9.

I know a couple of people that use Bergger film developed in Pyro. I've seen the
prints they make from it and they're excellent. I've seen 11x14 prints made from
35mm Bergger developed in Pyro and my first thought was that it was grainy 4x5 or
very good 6x4.5.



New photos are up.

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_englis...to.asp?ID=1274

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_englis...to.asp?ID=1273

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_englis...to.asp?ID=1272

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_englis...hael+Scarpitti