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#1
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Lenses for D70 (amateur)
I'm enjoying my D70 so much, I'd like to purchase a new lens. The
"outfit" came with this one: AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor ED 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF I bought this based on its rave reviews, but as you may have guessed, I'm a bit of an amateur so have mercy. The Booklet tells me to get a G or D series Nikkor lens for best results. I found a telephoto lens that's 70-300mm G series, so at first glance this seems like a perfect compliment to my 18-70mm. It zooms further, and had a good macro for taking close-ups. (I'm taking this baby to the Bronx Zoo). Here are the DX lenses I got from Nikon's website: 12-24mm f/4G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8G ED AF DX Fisheye-Nikkor 18-70mm f3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor **OWNED** 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor - NEW! 17-55mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor - NEW! I was thrown by the additional info that I should also be using a DX lens. It seems the 70-300mm is not available as a DX lens. Here is the info I have compiled on DX lenses: ***** AF-S: Single Servo Auto Focus: Gives options for auto focusing on subjects at variable lengths ED: Glass elements that compensate for magnification and virtually eliminate chromatic aberration IF: Internal Focusing for smoother focusing and a better balanced handling employing a Silent Wave Motor f/3.5-4.5: maximum aperture setting: not sure what this means besides the textbook definition of the amount of light allowed into the lens ***** Any kind-hearted soul out there help me through a bit of this jargon, and suggest a good telephoto/macro DX lens that will maximize the features of the D70? I'm learning as I go... -J |
#2
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"Reality Culture" wrote in message ... I'm enjoying my D70 so much, I'd like to purchase a new lens. The "outfit" came with this one: AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor ED 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF I bought this based on its rave reviews, but as you may have guessed, I'm a bit of an amateur so have mercy. The Booklet tells me to get a G or D series Nikkor lens for best results. I found a telephoto lens that's 70-300mm G series, so at first glance this seems like a perfect compliment to my 18-70mm. It zooms further, and had a good macro for taking close-ups. (I'm taking this baby to the Bronx Zoo). Here are the DX lenses I got from Nikon's website: 12-24mm f/4G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8G ED AF DX Fisheye-Nikkor 18-70mm f3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom Nikkor **OWNED** 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor - NEW! 17-55mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor - NEW! I was thrown by the additional info that I should also be using a DX lens. It seems the 70-300mm is not available as a DX lens. Here is the info I have compiled on DX lenses: ***** I'll give it a shot: AF-S: Single Servo Auto Focus: Gives options for auto focusing on subjects at variable lengths Auto focus with one motor in the lens. The motor is a "servo" type motor which means it can be electronically controlled to go either direction and stop at a predetermined point. ED: Glass elements that compensate for magnification and virtually eliminate chromatic aberration A high-quality optical glass found primarily in apochromatic telescopes. Many ED (extra-low dispersion) lenses have a high content of fluorite, which reduces aberration. (Dictionary definition.) IF: Internal Focusing for smoother focusing and a better balanced handling employing a Silent Wave Motor Instead of the lens focusing by moving in and out from the camera body, the lens focuses internally, allowing the lens to stay balanced in your hands. Silent wave motor just means it's very fast and quiet. http://nikonimaging.com/global/technology/scene/03/ f/3.5-4.5: maximum aperture setting: not sure what this means besides the textbook definition of the amount of light allowed into the lens The maximum aperture on a zoom lens will change as the focul length changes, which is the reason for the two figures. Keep in mind that you can use just about any Nikkor lens from model AI and up with your D70. However, older lenses will not have autofocus and will not work with the built-in meter. Newer lenses will work with more functions in the camera -- look at the chart in your manual. The decision you have to make is do you want faster lenses? Do you want lenses with wider apertures so you can work in low light with faster shutter speeds? Do you want lenses with wider apertures for decreased depth of field. If I'm not mistaken the DX lenses are specially made for digital cameras, since they don't have to cover the full-frame of a 35mm camera. So, you "can't" use these with a Nikon 35mm camera, but you can use lenses made for a 35mm camera on your D70. The image just gets cropped by a factor of 1.5. Nikon makes some excellent lenses that can get very expensive. The zoom lenses you are looking at would compliment your "kit" lens quite well, the tradeoff being better lenses cost a lot more but would let you work in less light. When I got my D70 I had a bunch of older Nikkor 35mm lenses that work just fine with my camera, so I'm all set. Being that you are just starting out, and want a longer lens, the 70~300 zoom lens would probably be just fine and the price is good. As far as cheap lenses from Nikon goes, the 18~70 kit lens, which you already have, gets great reviews and is one hell of a bargain. I don't know where this thread will lead, but I would stick with lenses from Nikon if other brands come up. Just have fun. ***** Any kind-hearted soul out there help me through a bit of this jargon, and suggest a good telephoto/macro DX lens that will maximize the features of the D70? I'm learning as I go... -J |
#3
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On Sun, 22 May 2005 01:26:24 GMT, Reality Culture
wrote: I was thrown by the additional info that I should also be using a DX lens. It seems the 70-300mm is not available as a DX lens. I was told by the tech rep for Nikon in this local area that the DX lenses are only important for focal lengths shorter than 46mm. I regularly use an 80-400 VR lens when length and usable shutter speed are important and swap that with an 80-200 f2.8. The wider the lens (non DX) the more acute the angle the light is striking the sensor and the more likely you are to have chromatic aberration...I believe. The DX lenses are supposed to be somewhat corrected for this. |
#4
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In article ,
"Sheldon" wrote: If I'm not mistaken the DX lenses are specially made for digital cameras, since they don't have to cover the full-frame of a 35mm camera. So, you "can't" use these with a Nikon 35mm camera, but you can use lenses made for a 35mm camera on your D70. The image just gets cropped by a factor of 1.5. A ha!!! Now I get it. You explain this so much better than the Nikon booklet. Nikon makes some excellent lenses that can get very expensive. The zoom lenses you are looking at would compliment your "kit" lens quite well, the tradeoff being better lenses cost a lot more but would let you work in less light. When I got my D70 I had a bunch of older Nikkor 35mm lenses that work just fine with my camera, so I'm all set. Being that you are just starting out, and want a longer lens, the 70~300 zoom lens would probably be just fine and the price is good. As far as cheap lenses from Nikon goes, the 18~70 kit lens, which you already have, gets great reviews and is one hell of a bargain. That's for sure. It's a delight to use. In all honesty, I just want the automatics like light, and focus to work until I get better at the full range of features. If cropping occurs, I guess I can compensate so long as I know it's happening. I'd hate to come home with hundreds of poorly-cropped photos. So, would the non-DX 70-300 lens be cropped by 1.5 then? It is a G series lens, and Nikon states that it would "work" without getting into further details. -J |
#5
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In article ,
Reality Culture wrote: In article , "Sheldon" wrote: [ ... ] When I got my D70 I had a bunch of older Nikkor 35mm lenses that work just fine with my camera, so I'm all set. Being that you are just starting out, and want a longer lens, the 70~300 zoom lens would probably be just fine and the price is good. As far as cheap lenses from Nikon goes, the 18~70 kit lens, which you already have, gets great reviews and is one hell of a bargain. That's for sure. It's a delight to use. In all honesty, I just want the automatics like light, and focus to work until I get better at the full range of features. If cropping occurs, I guess I can compensate so long as I know it's happening. I'd hate to come home with hundreds of poorly-cropped photos. That should not be a consideration. The viewfinder will show you *exactly* what you will get on the CF card (film equivalent). That is what SLRs are about -- showing you in the viewfinder exactly what you will get in your photo -- film or digital. The cropping mentioned is in comparison to a 35mm full-frame film camera, which uses a 24x36mm chunk of film using the same lens. Because the sensor in the D70 (and in most digital SLRs, with the exception of ones *way* beyond affordability for most of us) is smaller than that film size, the image is cropped (from what it could be on film) by the camera. In the D70, it is by a factor of 1.5. That is, the 24x36 mm frame is cropped down to 16x24 mm. So -- what you would expect to get with that focal length on a film camera you will only get a central part on the digital sensor. The effect -- at least in terms of how much of the image you will get on the sensor compared to film -- is that your coverage is the same as a lens with the crop factor multiplied by the focal length. If you don't already have a habit of working with 35mm film SLRs, this need not really matter to you -- the lens will give you what the viewfinder shows. But -- if you are accustomed to working with the film SLRs, and your experience tells you that you want a 135mm focal length lens, with the D70 you will want a 90 mm focal length lens. (There are other factors which are effected by the focal length which may change differently -- things like depth of field or how much you need to boost the shutter speed to get acceptable results hand-holding the camera and lens.) Since your first consideration is for zoom lenses, you probably won't be thinking of focal length at all -- you'll just rotate the zoom collar until you get the size of image which you want -- as shown by the viewfinder. Note that while a crop factor of 1.5 is standard for the Nikon DSLRs, other vendors may have other crop factors. The Cannon Rebel series has a crop factor of 1.6. There is one top-end Cannon which has a crop factor of 1.0 -- that is, it will give you exactly what the film camera would with the same lens. There are various reasons for the use of a smaller sensor, but the major one is that the cost of a sensor goes up as a significant factor of its size. A full 24x36 mm sensor is not simply 1.5 times the cost of the 16x24 mm one which you have, but more likely a factor of four or five times as much. So, would the non-DX 70-300 lens be cropped by 1.5 then? It is a G series lens, and Nikon states that it would "work" without getting into further details. It will give you a coverage equivalent to a lens with a focal length range of 105-450 mm on a film camera (the actual focal length multiplied by the crop factor). If you like to zoom in tight the crop factor is helping you. If you like to shoot wide angle, it is fighting you. For *my* shooting habits, the crop factor helps, as I like to zoom in tight, and would normally want a longer lens than my 28-105mm f3.5-4.5 D (I already had that lens, so I did not get the kit lens, I got the D70 body only). I do have other lenses, including a 50mm f1.4 with autofocus and the CPU so metering will work, and a 180mm f2.8 which has been retrofitted with a CPU so it will meter, but which is still manual focus. Note that the only serious limitation on the DX lenses is that you can't use them on a film body and get good behavior over the full film area. The corners will be at least blurred, and probably vignetted (fade out to nothing at the corners). And -- if Nikon ever decides to make a DSLR with a full 24x36 mm sensor, you can't use it with that either. However -- the DX series lenses should be lighter and smaller than the equivalent lenses for the full 24x36 mm film cameras -- and you won't need as long an actual focal length to get the coverage. I hope that this helps, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#6
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"Reality Culture" wrote in message ... In article , "Sheldon" wrote: If I'm not mistaken the DX lenses are specially made for digital cameras, since they don't have to cover the full-frame of a 35mm camera. So, you "can't" use these with a Nikon 35mm camera, but you can use lenses made for a 35mm camera on your D70. The image just gets cropped by a factor of 1.5. A ha!!! Now I get it. You explain this so much better than the Nikon booklet. Nikon makes some excellent lenses that can get very expensive. The zoom lenses you are looking at would compliment your "kit" lens quite well, the tradeoff being better lenses cost a lot more but would let you work in less light. When I got my D70 I had a bunch of older Nikkor 35mm lenses that work just fine with my camera, so I'm all set. Being that you are just starting out, and want a longer lens, the 70~300 zoom lens would probably be just fine and the price is good. As far as cheap lenses from Nikon goes, the 18~70 kit lens, which you already have, gets great reviews and is one hell of a bargain. That's for sure. It's a delight to use. In all honesty, I just want the automatics like light, and focus to work until I get better at the full range of features. If cropping occurs, I guess I can compensate so long as I know it's happening. I'd hate to come home with hundreds of poorly-cropped photos. So, would the non-DX 70-300 lens be cropped by 1.5 then? It is a G series lens, and Nikon states that it would "work" without getting into further details. -J To put it simply, a 50mm lens is a 50mm lens regardless. It's just when you put it on a 35mm camera it appears to be a "normal" 50mm lens as you know it. When put that 50mm lens on a digital camera with a 1.5x factor (most DSLR's) it now appears to be a 75mm lens when compared to the 35mm standard. You'll note that when your kit lens is set to 18mm it no way resembles an 18mm lens on a 35mm camera, which would be an extreme wide angle lens. So, we multiply it by 1.5 and we get the equivalent of a 27mm lens as seen through a 35mm camera. Still a wide angle lens, but not nearly as wide as an 18mm would be on a real 35mm with a frame the size of 35mm film. Much of the confusion revolves around the fact that most manufacturers use the term "equivalent" to a 35mm camera, since most of us know what a 27mm lens looks like on a 35mm. Few of us could afford an 18mm lens for our 35mm cameras, almost a fisheye. This becomes easier to understand when you start to play with medium format cameras (2 1/4) and large format cameras (4x5 and 8x10). A 50mm lens is a normal lens on 35mm, but a wide angle on a 2 1/4 and even wider on an 8x10. On a Minox it would be a telephoto. Now, the problem is that the lens must be manufactured to cover the entire image area on larger format cameras. So, lenses made specifically for digital SLR's only have to cover the area of the image sensor on that camera, which often makes them cheaper to engineer and manufacture. The only thing I don't like about the lenses you are looking at is the focusing ring, which is almost nonexistent. I tend to use manual focus a lot, and this is a negative for me since it's so small. But, if you want autofocus, you would have to spend about a grand to get a better lens. Many of my friends have the lens you are looking at and love it. For now, I'll stick with my old 80~200 AI Nikkor zoom. I don't need to go much longer than 300 (as compared to a 35mm camera using x1.5). I also have a 500 mirror lens which is now a 750 on my D70. Still, it's merely a 500mm lens that becomes cropped by the smaller image sensor so it appears to be a 750. Now that I've totally confused you buy that lens and go have some fun. |
#7
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DoN. Nichols napisa³(a):
That should not be a consideration. The viewfinder will show you *exactly* are you sure my dear? what about magnification :P it surely won't show you the full scene but something arround 80%-95% only few slrs have a 100% in viewfinder |
#8
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In article ,
Marek M. \"rogus\" wrote: DoN. Nichols napisa³(a): That should not be a consideration. The viewfinder will show you *exactly* are you sure my dear? what about magnification :P As for *magnification* -- that can be matched by how large you opt to show the image on your computer screen once it is downloaded. :-) it surely won't show you the full scene but something arround 80%-95% only few slrs have a 100% in viewfinder O.K. Point conceded. My old Nikon F cameras showed 100% (which was more than you would get in a mounted slide, unless you did glass mounting.) Most others did some cropping in the viewfinder, so it was a closer match to what the slide mount left exposed. But -- if you were printing from negatives, the fact that you saw it all was an aid to careful composition. But with the 80%-95% range, you will at least get everything into the image that you see in the viewfinder. I think that the original poster was worrying about not getting things into the image that he saw in the viewfinder. The only example that I have of an SLR camera which shows *more* in the finder than you will get in the image is my NC2000e/c -- a Nikon N90s converted by Kodak to become a digital for the AP. The viewfinder shows the entire frame, with a black border printed on the finder screen to delimit what the sensor will actually capture. And, of course, rangefinder cameras (off-topic here) often have bright frames projected on the image to show what coverage you will get with a given lens, while showing all the way out to what the widest lens will capture. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#9
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#10
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In article ,
Wolfgang Teschner wrote: On 22 May 2005 00:02:30 -0400, (DoN. Nichols) wrote: In article , Reality Culture wrote: In article , "Sheldon" wrote: [ ... ] ... The effect -- at least in terms of how much of the image you will get on the sensor compared to film -- is that your coverage is the same as a lens with the crop factor multiplied by the focal length. If [ ... ] Well, this is easy enough, but I found many discussions - which makes me feel dumb - about a change in F value for these full-size lenses if used at DSLRs. Is there one or not? Any lens which has multiple specified apertures (e.g. my 28-105mm f3.5-4.5) will *change* the maximum aperture depending on where in its zoom range it happens to be. (In the example above, at 28mm it will go all the way to f3.5, but at 105mm it will only reach f4.5. I don't know the precise curve as you go through the range. But: 1) The camera body knows what is coming through the lens. 2) It behaves the same way on both film and DSLR bodies. It is simply a trick in the manufacture which allows the lens to be a bit wider at the shorter focal lengths. Other lenses have ways to compensate for this -- but cost a lot more -- and they may be accomplishing it by discarding possible maximum aperture values at some points in their zoom range. This -- like the crop factor using a lens from a film SLR on a DSLR -- is not really a problem so much as a fact of optics. Don't worry about it. Now -- if you put the lens on extension tubes or a bellows, the effective aperture decreases (numerically increases) as you move the lens away from the body to allow closer focusing. Again -- this happens on both film and digital bodies, and people with film bodies have lived with it -- perhaps with the aid of charts -- when they wanted to do extreme closeups. If I have a fullframe 200/F4, will it become a 300/F5.6 at a D70? No! It will remain a 200 mm f4 -- but it will produce a full image (as printed) the size that a 300 mm would on a full 35mm film frame. Your f4 maximum aperture will remain the same. So I need twice as much light for the same effect on the sensor? My head is turning if I think about it too much (which I did in the last days...). You are indeed thinking too much about it. Get the lens and start taking photos. The camera will work with it, and the viewfinder will tell you what coverage it will get. You change the zoom settings, or back away or move closer to fill the visible frame with what you want. The camera takes care of the aperture -- until you decide that *you* want to control it for your own purposes. And, you get instant feedback -- you can look at the display to see what you got, and if things are not as you desired, you can try other ways. It is not like the days when you had to wait for the film to be processed to see what you got. (Of course, that once-in-a-lifetime shot will not re-occur, so get lots of practice trying things (and discarding images if you so desire) until you get a feel for what the camera will do for you, and most things become totally automatic for *you* -- not just depending on the automatics in the camera. There are times when you want to turn off the auto-focus on the D70, because it wants to focus on something other than you want. An example was a small, nearly translucent bug on the outside of the bathroom window. The camera wanted to focus on the trees, instead of the closeup of the insect, so I switched to manual focus. For similar reasons, you may wish to manually select the shutter speed, or the aperture. The camera can help you with getting the correct exposure, or you can set both shutter speed and aperture manually, ignoring all of the camera's advice. Another automatic feature -- turned off by default -- is auto ISO selection. The camera defaults to 200 ISO, but if there is not enough light to allow a reasonable shutter speed, it can be set to automatically increase the ISO -- all the way up to 1600 ISO if necessary, to allow an exposure. I generally have this turned on, because I tend to shoot a lot in poor light. At the highest ISO settings, you get a bit of noise (think of it as grain) in the image, but it beats not getting that shot. I hope that this helps, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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