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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
for fiberglass print drying rack, should one put the prints on it with
emusion side down or up? thanks. |
#2
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
In article
, Steven Woody wrote: for fiberglass print drying rack, should one put the prints on it with emusion side down or up? thanks. Some people will say that depends on the paper type; fiber or RC. I use an RC dryer and before that a hair dryer. So I only use the screens for Fiber. I also know people that dry fiber face down. People I respect their work: However I have always used face up, I squeegee the prints and they are dry but morning, without water spots and screen marks which if you fail to remove enough water may appear on the paper. -- Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back. |
#3
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
On Mar 5, 1:00 pm, ____ wrote:
In article , Steven Woody wrote: for fiberglass print drying rack, should one put the prints on it with emusion side down or up? thanks. Some people will say that depends on the paper type; fiber or RC. I use an RC dryer and before that a hair dryer. So I only use the screens for Fiber. I also know people that dry fiber face down. People I respect their work: However I have always used face up, I squeegee the prints and they are dry but morning, without water spots and screen marks which if you fail to remove enough water may appear on the paper. -- Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back. ok, thanks for the information. |
#4
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
In article ,
____ wrote: In article , Steven Woody wrote: for fiberglass print drying rack, should one put the prints on it with emusion side down or up? thanks. Some people will say that depends on the paper type; fiber or RC. I use an RC dryer and before that a hair dryer. So I only use the screens for Fiber. I also know people that dry fiber face down. People I respect their work: However I have always used face up, I squeegee the prints and they are dry but morning, without water spots and screen marks which if you fail to remove enough water may appear on the paper. I have always dried fiber face-down on screens. I agree that if you squeegee or chamois all the water off first, it doesn't really matter which side up you do it. When I was in school we often had to produce large numbers of good quality prints very fast. At peak periods we would prevail upon the other students mixing the fixer in the large group darkrooms to omit the hardener so we could cut wash times a bit if we were toning. It wasn't uncommon in this environment to see prints damaged in most ways you can imagine, for example by being slid into the rack of drying screens face-down too vigorously, resulting in scuffing of the emulsion surface, or by being squeegeed with a squeegee with some grit or crud on it, resulting in discrete surface scratches. Either way you can screw up but I've always found it easier to work with less stuff to keep clean, so I do it the way I don't have to squeegee the emulsion side of the paper -- no squeegee to wipe down for dirt first. If I dry face-up without squeegeeing I get water spots that do not always come out easily when I flatten the paper in my dry mount press, so face-down it is. -- Thor Lancelot Simon "The inconsistency is startling, though admittedly, if consistency is to be abandoned or transcended, there is no problem." - Noam Chomsky |
#5
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
On Mar 4, 6:01 pm, Steven Woody wrote:
for fiberglass print drying rack, should one put the prints on it with emusion side down or up? thanks. The traditional way is to dry fiber prints emulsion side down. There is a rational to this. The idea is that curling of prints is mostly due to the emulsion shrinking more than the support. This shrinking is minimized by slowing down the drying. That happens when the emulsion is against the screen which limits the contact with the air. Old style screens used cheesecloth which held some water making the emulsion side dry even more slowly. Since the support side of RC paper is dimensionally stable this drying scheme is not needed although screens may still be convenient for drying. RC is usually dried emulsion side up. The differential drying gotten with a screen is also the reason blotter books and rolls have a non-permeable sheet, waxed paper in the very old ones, interleaved with the blotters. The idea is to put the emulsion against the sheet so that the drying takes place mostly from the support side minimizing curling. Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#6
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
On Mar 5, 9:19 pm, Richard Knoppow wrote:
On Mar 4, 6:01 pm, Steven Woody wrote: for fiberglass print drying rack, should one put the prints on it with emusion side down or up? thanks. The traditional way is to dry fiber prints emulsion side down. There is a rational to this. The idea is that curling of prints is mostly due to the emulsion shrinking more than the support. This shrinking is minimized by slowing down the drying. That happens when the emulsion is against the screen which limits the contact with the air. Old style screens used cheesecloth which held some water making the emulsion side dry even more slowly. Since the support side of RC paper is dimensionally stable this drying scheme is not needed although screens may still be convenient for drying. RC is usually dried emulsion side up. The differential drying gotten with a screen is also the reason blotter books and rolls have a non-permeable sheet, waxed paper in the very old ones, interleaved with the blotters. The idea is to put the emulsion against the sheet so that the drying takes place mostly from the support side minimizing curling. Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA Thanks for the information. It's good! |
#7
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
On Mar 5, 5:19*am, Richard Knoppow wrote:
The differential drying gotten with a screen is also the reason blotter books and rolls have a non-permeable sheet, waxed paper in the very old ones, interleaved with the blotters. The idea is to put the emulsion against the sheet so that the drying takes place mostly from the support side minimizing curling. Richard Knoppow Wondered about those "non-permeable" sheets. My blotter book was set aside years ago in favor of a corrugated board stack dryer. Although the prints do come out of the dryer with nothing more than a hint of emulsion side curl they do over time, unweighted, develop some more emulsion side curl. As it is the stack is built by alternating layers of board, hydrophobic sheets, and prints; a same sheeting each side of the prints. Perhaps I should be using a less permeable sheet emulsion side for long term flatter prints. Dan |
#8
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
wrote in message ... On Mar 5, 5:19 am, Richard Knoppow wrote: The differential drying gotten with a screen is also the reason blotter books and rolls have a non-permeable sheet, waxed paper in the very old ones, interleaved with the blotters. The idea is to put the emulsion against the sheet so that the drying takes place mostly from the support side minimizing curling. Richard Knoppow Wondered about those "non-permeable" sheets. My blotter book was set aside years ago in favor of a corrugated board stack dryer. Although the prints do come out of the dryer with nothing more than a hint of emulsion side curl they do over time, unweighted, develop some more emulsion side curl. As it is the stack is built by alternating layers of board, hydrophobic sheets, and prints; a same sheeting each side of the prints. Perhaps I should be using a less permeable sheet emulsion side for long term flatter prints. Dan Worth a try. The idea of these things, especially the blotter rolls, is that there is some air circulation at the back side of the blotters allowing faster drying. Kodak used to make a print dryer using corrugated blotter rolls with a blower. The same principle works for flattening prints using a dry mounting press. The print is put in the press with either several sheets of pre-dryed "kraft" paper on the support side or a sheet of blotter paper, also pre-dryed in the press there. The emulsion side is covered by release tissue. The print is put into the press and heated for a minute or two and then the entire sandwich of release tissue, print, and backup paper, is placed under a flat weight to cool. I've found this method to be very effective for fiber based prints and, once flattened this way, the prints seem to stay flat regardless of temperature or humidity. It does not work for RC of course, because the base does not absorb or loose water. BTW, RC prints seem to curl right up when the RH get really low, as it does here sometimes. -- --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA |
#9
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack VS blotting rolls
Hi all,
Richard, Thank you for a very lucid explanation of how paper dries? I've used screens, face up. From my neighbour who is closing his darkroom because he is returning to Switzerland, I recently received 6 rolls of Kodak Blotting Paper, 11.5" x6'. I'll try the blotting paper route, but I would like to know if there are pros and cons to each method. And why? Thanks! Cheers, Bogdan Steven Woody wrote: On Mar 5, 9:19 pm, Richard Knoppow wrote: On Mar 4, 6:01 pm, Steven Woody wrote: for fiberglass print drying rack, should one put the prints on it with emusion side down or up? thanks. The traditional way is to dry fiber prints emulsion side down. There is a rational to this. The idea is that curling of prints is mostly due to the emulsion shrinking more than the support. This shrinking is minimized by slowing down the drying. That happens when the emulsion is against the screen which limits the contact with the air. Old style screens used cheesecloth which held some water making the emulsion side dry even more slowly. Since the support side of RC paper is dimensionally stable this drying scheme is not needed although screens may still be convenient for drying. RC is usually dried emulsion side up. The differential drying gotten with a screen is also the reason blotter books and rolls have a non-permeable sheet, waxed paper in the very old ones, interleaved with the blotters. The idea is to put the emulsion against the sheet so that the drying takes place mostly from the support side minimizing curling. Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA Thanks for the information. It's good! -- __________________________________________________ ______________ Bogdan Karasek Montréal, Québec Canada www.bogdanphoto.com "I bear witness" __________________________________________________ ______________ |
#10
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Usage of fiberglasss print drying rack
On Mar 9, 5:08*pm, "Richard Knoppow" wrote:
wrote Wondered about those "non-permeable" sheets. My blotter book was set aside years ago in favor of a corrugated board stack dryer. Although the prints do come out of the dryer with nothing more than a hint of emulsion side curl they do over time, unweighted, develop some more emulsion side curl. As it is the stack is built by alternating layers of board, hydrophobic sheets, and prints; a same sheeting each side of the prints. Perhaps I should be using a less permeable sheet emulsion side for long term flatter prints. Dan * * Worth a try. The idea of these things, especially the blotter rolls, is that there is some air circulation at the back side of the blotters allowing faster drying. Kodak used to make a print dryer using corrugated blotter rolls with a blower. Richard Knoppow Kodak's blotter rolls used a single face corrugated board with a length of blotter paper forming the second face. I used and liked mine. Prints came out flat but with the characteristic bend towards the emulsion. Salthill, Burke & James and others offered corrugated board stack dryers using BLOTTER PAPER. I've updated the old corrugated board stack dryer by using a special ventilator grade corrugated board in conjunction with non-woven synthetic fiber separators. The result is a print dryer which is Very inexpensive, Compact, Ultra light weight, and easily stowable. It leaves prints dry and Flat. Dan |
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