1a or 2a skylight filters and digital cameras

In article , says...

Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the
filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light.
Regards,
Julian
www.shuttertalk.com

Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect.
With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the
skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one
has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little
difference.

Hunt

In article , says...

Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the
filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light.
Regards,
Julian
www.shuttertalk.com

Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect.
With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the
skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one
has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little
difference.

Hunt

Hunt wrote:

In article , says...

Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the
filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light.
Regards,
Julian
www.shuttertalk.com

Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect.
With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the
skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one
has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little
difference.

I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin
a filter than replace a lens.

--
Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS
Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor)
http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online

Hunt wrote:

In article , says...

Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the
filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light.
Regards,
Julian
www.shuttertalk.com

Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect.
With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the
skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one
has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little
difference.

I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin
a filter than replace a lens.

--
Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS
Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor)
http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online

In article , hairy.
says...

Hunt wrote:

In article , says...

Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the
filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light.
Regards,
Julian
www.shuttertalk.com

Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND
effect.
With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in
the
skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if
one
has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little
difference.

I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin
a filter than replace a lens.

--
Andy Hewitt

Andy,

I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and
needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably
grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color,
because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's,
but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced
with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any
warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a &
1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the
clearest glass I could find of the highest quality.

Hunt

In article , hairy.
says...

Hunt wrote:

In article , says...

Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the
filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light.
Regards,
Julian
www.shuttertalk.com

Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND
effect.
With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in
the
skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if
one
has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little
difference.

I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin
a filter than replace a lens.

--
Andy Hewitt

Andy,

I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and
needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably
grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color,
because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's,
but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced
with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any
warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a &
1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the
clearest glass I could find of the highest quality.

Hunt

Hunt wrote:

Snipped Text
I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and
needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably
grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color,
because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's,
but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced
with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any
warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a &
1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the
clearest glass I could find of the highest quality.

Agreed, my old Olypus lenses have Hoya filters on them. I've not managed
to attach one to my digitals though, as they are compacts and don't have
filter threads.

I did used to take my camera to some places that would increase the risk
of damage to the lens - such as the Snowdonian mountains.

--
Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS
Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor)
http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online

Hunt wrote:

Snipped Text
I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and
needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably
grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color,
because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's,
but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced
with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any
warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a &
1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the
clearest glass I could find of the highest quality.

Agreed, my old Olypus lenses have Hoya filters on them. I've not managed
to attach one to my digitals though, as they are compacts and don't have
filter threads.

I did used to take my camera to some places that would increase the risk
of damage to the lens - such as the Snowdonian mountains.

--
Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS
Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor)
http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online