Anyone Heard the Omega D5V-XL Enlarger?

I'm sorry, but I do not know. Someone with more knowledge of the
timer/power supply might be able to tell if it's even possible for the
supply to taper off. I doubt that it can.

Oh, if true, that's a big deal ...

In article . com,
"narke" wrote:

Hold on, my friend.The enlarger has two bellows adjustments. You
might have to change it from the current setting.

What you mean two bellows adjustments, my friends :-)

-
narke

It only has one. It does however have two separate places to align the
chassis. But no,... the D5XL has only one bellows adjustment knob. Then
there also the focus knobs (Different animals)

--
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"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

On Wed, 13 Apr 2005 20:03:00 -0500, "J.Scheimpflug"
wrote:


"narke" wrote in message
roups.com...
J.Scheimpflug wrote,

No it does not. There is something wrong with the system you are
looking at

Supposing there is really a problem, however, where the problem most
likely come from? I believe there is no other causes except the lamp
itself. Is my guess right?

I'm sorry, but I do not know. Someone with more knowledge of the timer/power
supply might be able to tell if it's even possible for the supply to taper
off. I doubt that it can.

I think the light fading rather than cutting off abruptly is due to
the filament of the bulb. With a high wattage bulb like the 250 watt
in the color head, the filament takes a short amount of time to cool
down & that's what we're seeing. I've noticed this effect on my D5;
it seems to last for less than one second and causes no problems. It
may add a fraction of a second to the exposure time, but doesn't
affect print quality at all.


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Retired Shop Rat: 14,647 days in a GM plant.
Now I can do what I enjoy: Large Format Photography
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David,

Did you mean that light fading is normal on a color head with 250 watt
lamp ? Does those guy who did not notice this phenomena are those who
are using a b&w head with lower wattage?

FYI: The lamp on the mechine is really 250 watt.

-
narke

On 13 Apr 2005 17:43:38 -0700, "narke" wrote:
....
Supposing there is really a problem, however, where the problem most
likely come from? I believe there is no other causes except the lamp
itself. Is my guess right?
....
narke


apr1505 from Lloyd Erlick,

I think the lamp is the cause of this effect. I wouldn't call it a
problem, though. It's a characteristic of the system. You can easily
compensate for it by including it in your exposures. It is just a
matter of getting used to it.

My enlarger uses the same lamp. I use a Durst L1200 enlarger with a
Durst Multigraph light source. Durst takes a much more elaborate way
of dealing with the lamp characteristic you are describing. The light
source has a shutter that remains closed at the beginning of the
exposure during lamp "up-glow" (Durst terminology!) and again closes
at the end of the exposure before the lamp is shut off and begins
"down-glow". Of course the shutter is an electro-mechanical device
that will eventually fail and require repair...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
--

Assuming an Omega D Dichroic Colorhead that we are talking about -
The bulb is removed by raising the top cover of the head and on the
right is the bulb. There is a small lever sometimes to raise the bulb
from its location. If no lever the bulb slides out from the socket and
another put in its' place. Becareful to line it up right in the socket.
Wear light weight cotton gloves to be sure there are no finger marks
anywhere.
Some lamp afterglow is usual Certainly not more than a second or so. Is
there a regulator on the rear of the power supply?
From reading the posts here one might gather there are two bulbs. Not
so unless somebody has a sleeper that I have never seen. Might happen.

Take care
Bob AZ

"Lloyd Erlick" Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote in message
...
On 13 Apr 2005 17:43:38 -0700, "narke" wrote:
...
Supposing there is really a problem, however, where the problem most
likely come from? I believe there is no other causes except the lamp
itself. Is my guess right?
...
narke


apr1505 from Lloyd Erlick,

I think the lamp is the cause of this effect. I wouldn't call it a
problem, though. It's a characteristic of the system. You can easily
compensate for it by including it in your exposures. It is just a
matter of getting used to it.

My enlarger uses the same lamp. I use a Durst L1200 enlarger with a
Durst Multigraph light source. Durst takes a much more elaborate way
of dealing with the lamp characteristic you are describing. The light
source has a shutter that remains closed at the beginning of the
exposure during lamp "up-glow" (Durst terminology!) and again closes
at the end of the exposure before the lamp is shut off and begins
"down-glow". Of course the shutter is an electro-mechanical device
that will eventually fail and require repair...

regards,
--le

Assuming an enlarger without a shutter, such as the OP's Omega D5V-VL,
wouldn't this "up-glow" and "down-glow" (cute terminology!) cause a color
problem? As the lamp is coming up (or going down), wouldn't it go thru
various shades of yellow/red until it gets to operating temp? With my Omega
D2V (using a "household-style" lamp: PH112? with no noticeable
up/down-glow), my exposures for 11x14 on Kodak Endura paper typically run
10sec +/-. If the glow lasts a second or more, that's possibly 10% or more
of the exposure.

Ken Hart

Assuming an enlarger without a shutter, such as the OP's Omega
D5V-VL, wouldn't this "up-glow" and "down-glow" (cute terminology!)
cause a color problem? As the lamp is coming up (or going down),
wouldn't it go thru various shades of yellow/red until it gets to
operating temp? With my Omega D2V (using a "household-style" lamp:
PH112? with no noticeable up/down-glow), my exposures for 11x14 on
Kodak Endura paper typically run 10sec +/-. If the glow lasts a second
or more, that's possibly 10% or more of the exposure.

Yes, that's what i am worry about.

Assuming an enlarger without a shutter, such as the OP's Omega
D5V-VL, wouldn't this "up-glow" and "down-glow" (cute terminology!)
cause a color problem? As the lamp is coming up (or going down),
wouldn't it go thru various shades of yellow/red until it gets to
operating temp? With my Omega D2V (using a "household-style" lamp:
PH112? with no noticeable up/down-glow), my exposures for 11x14 on
Kodak Endura paper typically run 10sec +/-. If the glow lasts a second
or more, that's possibly 10% or more of the exposure.

Yes, that's what i am worry about.

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005 23:44:20 -0500, "Ken Hart" wrote:


"Lloyd Erlick" Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote in message
.. .
On 13 Apr 2005 17:43:38 -0700, "narke" wrote:
...
Supposing there is really a problem, however, where the problem most
likely come from? I believe there is no other causes except the lamp
itself. Is my guess right?
...
narke


apr1505 from Lloyd Erlick,

I think the lamp is the cause of this effect. I wouldn't call it a
problem, though. It's a characteristic of the system. You can easily
compensate for it by including it in your exposures. It is just a
matter of getting used to it.

My enlarger uses the same lamp. I use a Durst L1200 enlarger with a
Durst Multigraph light source. Durst takes a much more elaborate way
of dealing with the lamp characteristic you are describing. The light
source has a shutter that remains closed at the beginning of the
exposure during lamp "up-glow" (Durst terminology!) and again closes
at the end of the exposure before the lamp is shut off and begins
"down-glow". Of course the shutter is an electro-mechanical device
that will eventually fail and require repair...

regards,
--le

Assuming an enlarger without a shutter, such as the OP's Omega D5V-VL,
wouldn't this "up-glow" and "down-glow" (cute terminology!) cause a color
problem? As the lamp is coming up (or going down), wouldn't it go thru
various shades of yellow/red until it gets to operating temp? With my Omega
D2V (using a "household-style" lamp: PH112? with no noticeable
up/down-glow), my exposures for 11x14 on Kodak Endura paper typically run
10sec +/-. If the glow lasts a second or more, that's possibly 10% or more
of the exposure.

Ken Hart



apr1605 from Lloyd Erlick,

I agree there is at least the potential for a problem. But in fact, I
don't think the length of time involved is really a second; it's
barely perceptible if one watches for it in the dark. And for the
largest fraction of the time involved, the energy emitted by the
filament is very much reduced compared to its fully energized state.

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
--