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delta3200 with rodinal: ok but takes a little bit longer than 11 minutes



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 4th 05, 03:56 PM
Gianni Rondinini
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Default delta3200 with rodinal: ok but takes a little bit longer than 11 minutes

hi all.

yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal.
i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano
rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent.

i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone,
but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better
results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll
"sacrify" a film for a deeper test.

a friend of mine insists that with rodinal you can deeply modify
contrast and grain of the film and says that going to 19 --or even a
bit less-- degrees and increasing development time by 30% would give
far better results as grain and contrast --with fast films--. perhaps
next time i'll give this a try.

chances are also that this wednesday evening i'll develop delta3200's
@12500 with t-max developer --the ones we've been talking about some
weeks ago--. i'll let you know the results on friday.

i hope i'll start printing soon --i still miss a red safe filter for
enlarger lenses: my enlargers were used for color prints and have no
safelight filter at the moment--.

regards,
--
Gianni Rondinini
Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it
Tel: +39 0545 78036
Fax: +39 0545 78727
  #2  
Old April 4th 05, 07:09 PM
David Nebenzahl
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Default

On 4/4/2005 7:56 AM Gianni Rondinini spake thus:

yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal.
i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano
rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent.


6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any
wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do
is coat the film so the water film covers it all over.

i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone,
but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better
results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll
"sacrify" a film for a deeper test.


"Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give
better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped
(or overexposed).

If the film seems too light, then you may want to try more development.


--
"I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon."

- Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by
the late Hunter S. Thompson

  #3  
Old April 4th 05, 07:09 PM
David Nebenzahl
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 4/4/2005 7:56 AM Gianni Rondinini spake thus:

yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal.
i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano
rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent.


6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any
wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do
is coat the film so the water film covers it all over.

i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone,
but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better
results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll
"sacrify" a film for a deeper test.


"Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give
better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped
(or overexposed).

If the film seems too light, then you may want to try more development.


--
"I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon."

- Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by
the late Hunter S. Thompson

  #4  
Old April 5th 05, 12:10 AM
pgg
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Posts: n/a
Default

Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film
with a true film speed of 1000-1200 instead of 3200. Therefore you want a
developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible
and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this.

Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200.



On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 16:56:25 +0200, Gianni Rondinini wrote:

hi all.

yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal.
i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano
rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent.

i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone,
but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better
results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll
"sacrify" a film for a deeper test.

a friend of mine insists that with rodinal you can deeply modify
contrast and grain of the film and says that going to 19 --or even a
bit less-- degrees and increasing development time by 30% would give
far better results as grain and contrast --with fast films--. perhaps
next time i'll give this a try.

chances are also that this wednesday evening i'll develop delta3200's
@12500 with t-max developer --the ones we've been talking about some
weeks ago--. i'll let you know the results on friday.

i hope i'll start printing soon --i still miss a red safe filter for
enlarger lenses: my enlargers were used for color prints and have no
safelight filter at the moment--.

regards,


  #5  
Old April 5th 05, 12:10 AM
pgg
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film
with a true film speed of 1000-1200 instead of 3200. Therefore you want a
developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible
and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this.

Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200.



On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 16:56:25 +0200, Gianni Rondinini wrote:

hi all.

yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal.
i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano
rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent.

i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone,
but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better
results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll
"sacrify" a film for a deeper test.

a friend of mine insists that with rodinal you can deeply modify
contrast and grain of the film and says that going to 19 --or even a
bit less-- degrees and increasing development time by 30% would give
far better results as grain and contrast --with fast films--. perhaps
next time i'll give this a try.

chances are also that this wednesday evening i'll develop delta3200's
@12500 with t-max developer --the ones we've been talking about some
weeks ago--. i'll let you know the results on friday.

i hope i'll start printing soon --i still miss a red safe filter for
enlarger lenses: my enlargers were used for color prints and have no
safelight filter at the moment--.

regards,


  #6  
Old April 6th 05, 10:13 AM
Gianni Rondinini
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 11:09:54 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any
wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do


well, after reading your post i read the sticker on the agepon bottle
and saw that it says "30"-1'"
i wasn't in a hurry to remove the film from the wetting agent and used
to leave it there while i washed the tank and something else.

"Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give
better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped
(or overexposed).


ok, i wrote it the wrong way, but got the point.
i said sacrifice meaning that i won't use a roll of "meaningful"
photos to do some experiments. usually i shot some still life to do my
experiments with films and everything else: a meaningless film can be
sacrified to understand where i'm missing somethings.

thank you.
--
Gianni Rondinini
Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it
Tel: +39 0545 78036
Fax: +39 0545 78727
  #7  
Old April 6th 05, 10:13 AM
Gianni Rondinini
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 11:09:54 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any
wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do


well, after reading your post i read the sticker on the agepon bottle
and saw that it says "30"-1'"
i wasn't in a hurry to remove the film from the wetting agent and used
to leave it there while i washed the tank and something else.

"Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give
better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped
(or overexposed).


ok, i wrote it the wrong way, but got the point.
i said sacrifice meaning that i won't use a roll of "meaningful"
photos to do some experiments. usually i shot some still life to do my
experiments with films and everything else: a meaningless film can be
sacrified to understand where i'm missing somethings.

thank you.
--
Gianni Rondinini
Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it
Tel: +39 0545 78036
Fax: +39 0545 78727
  #8  
Old April 6th 05, 10:13 AM
Gianni Rondinini
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:10:44 GMT, pgg
wrote:

Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film


i thought they were. after one day of drying the films seemed nice,
but i haven't printed them yet.

developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible
and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this.


ok, i understand.

Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200.


but *impossible* to find in italy. i even thought that it was
discontinued. i can find tmax and xtol, if they may be better.

regards,
--
Gianni Rondinini
Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it
Tel: +39 0545 78036
Fax: +39 0545 78727
  #9  
Old April 6th 05, 10:13 AM
Gianni Rondinini
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:10:44 GMT, pgg
wrote:

Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film


i thought they were. after one day of drying the films seemed nice,
but i haven't printed them yet.

developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible
and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this.


ok, i understand.

Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200.


but *impossible* to find in italy. i even thought that it was
discontinued. i can find tmax and xtol, if they may be better.

regards,
--
Gianni Rondinini
Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it
Tel: +39 0545 78036
Fax: +39 0545 78727
  #10  
Old April 6th 05, 04:41 PM
Gianni Rondinini
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 14:04:59 GMT, PGG
wrote:

This probably means 30 parts water to 1 part Agepon. Make sure it is


no, it's the time suggested for tratment...

as diluition, i work at the recommended 1+200.
never used distilled water, but i'll give it a chance.

thank you.

regards,
--
Gianni Rondinini
Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it
Tel: +39 0545 78036
Fax: +39 0545 78727
 




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