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#12
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In article , says...
Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light. Regards, Julian www.shuttertalk.com Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect. With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little difference. Hunt |
#13
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Hunt wrote:
In article , says... Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light. Regards, Julian www.shuttertalk.com Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect. With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little difference. I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin a filter than replace a lens. -- Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor) http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online |
#14
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Hunt wrote:
In article , says... Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light. Regards, Julian www.shuttertalk.com Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect. With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little difference. I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin a filter than replace a lens. -- Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor) http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online |
#15
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In article , hairy.
says... Hunt wrote: In article , says... Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light. Regards, Julian www.shuttertalk.com Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect. With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little difference. I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin a filter than replace a lens. -- Andy Hewitt Andy, I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color, because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's, but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a & 1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the clearest glass I could find of the highest quality. Hunt |
#16
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In article , hairy.
says... Hunt wrote: In article , says... Probably won't affect the colour or white balance... but check the filter information - some skylights cost you 1 or 2 stops of light. Regards, Julian www.shuttertalk.com Nikon multi-coated 1B is -1/3/f, so it is not really an issue, ND effect. With digital capture, however, I'd question why one might use a filter in the skylight category v UV, as the color balance is easily adjustable. Now, if one has high quality skylights of the right size, then there should be little difference. I usually stick a 1a onto a lens just to protect it. It's cheaper to bin a filter than replace a lens. -- Andy Hewitt Andy, I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color, because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's, but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a & 1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the clearest glass I could find of the highest quality. Hunt |
#17
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Hunt wrote:
Snipped Text I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color, because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's, but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a & 1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the clearest glass I could find of the highest quality. Agreed, my old Olypus lenses have Hoya filters on them. I've not managed to attach one to my digitals though, as they are compacts and don't have filter threads. I did used to take my camera to some places that would increase the risk of damage to the lens - such as the Snowdonian mountains. -- Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor) http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online |
#18
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Hunt wrote:
Snipped Text I agree, provided that it's a quality filter. If I were shooting digital and needed either a 52mm, or 62mm thread filter for protection, I'd just probably grab one of my old Nikon Multi-coated 1b's, and not worry about the color, because I'd bring the RAW into PS anyway. I think I may still have the UV's, but only in 52mm, and, as I recall, though Nikon, were not multi-coated. Faced with buying one today, I'd probably opt for a good UV, and not worry about any warming effect, though I believe that the UV-cutoff was a bit better with 1a & 1b over straight UV. Agian, with everything going through PS, I'd go with the clearest glass I could find of the highest quality. Agreed, my old Olypus lenses have Hoya filters on them. I've not managed to attach one to my digitals though, as they are compacts and don't have filter threads. I did used to take my camera to some places that would increase the risk of damage to the lens - such as the Snowdonian mountains. -- Andy Hewitt ** FAF#1, (Ex-OSOS#5) - FJ1200 ABS Honda Concerto 16v: Windows free zone (Mac G5 Dual Processor) http://www.thehewitts.plus.com - now online |
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