help with crescent moon crimping

I am looking for help/suggestions to remove the crescent moon crimping marks
on a roll of 120 negatives where I had trouble loading the film to reel. I
unfortunately didn't process the film soon enough after exposing (months)
and subsequently the film became difficult to load, especially at the end of
the role (beginning of the exposures). The film developed well enough except
for the crimping. Fortunately, the negative has a totally black background
(clear on the negative) and the crimping is within this cleared area and
does not interfere with the subject. I can maneuver the print during the
printing process to eliminate the crimping in the final print but I would
like to know if it is possible to completely remove the crimping mark on the
negative permanently without damaging the negative. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks.

In article ,
"Robert J. Mathes" wrote:

I am looking for help/suggestions to remove the crescent moon crimping marks
on a roll of 120 negatives where I had trouble loading the film to reel. I
unfortunately didn't process the film soon enough after exposing (months)
and subsequently the film became difficult to load, especially at the end of
the role (beginning of the exposures). The film developed well enough except
for the crimping. Fortunately, the negative has a totally black background
(clear on the negative) and the crimping is within this cleared area and
does not interfere with the subject. I can maneuver the print during the
printing process to eliminate the crimping in the final print but I would
like to know if it is possible to completely remove the crimping mark on the
negative permanently without damaging the negative. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I doubt you'll be able to fix it for optical printing, you may be able
to spot out the area(s) affected....the best fix may be possible by
(gasp) using a film scanner and outputting the "fixed" image file.

Seems like a good reason to justify digital work

But you never know, maybe rewashing the negatives and heat drying them
in a drying cabinet may work.
--
George W. Bush is the President Quayle we never had.

"Robert J. Mathes" wrote

remove the crescent moon crimping marks
on a roll of 120 negatives where I had
trouble loading the film to reel. the
negative has a totally black background
(clear on the negative) and the crimping
is within this cleared area, I would
like to know if it is possible to
completely remove the crimping mark on the
negative permanently without damaging the negative.


You can bleach the emulsion clear with Farmer's
Reducer, applying to the crimp mark with a q-tip.

If the celluloid has a crimp mark in it I don't
think you will be able to get it out.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com

In article t,
"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote:

You can bleach the emulsion clear with Farmer's
Reducer, applying to the crimp mark with a q-tip.

Won't that leave a big black spot on his prints
shaped like the moon shape ?


If the celluloid has a crimp mark in it I don't
think you will be able to get it out.
--
George W. Bush is the President Quayle we never had.

"Robert J. Mathes" wrote in message
...
I am looking for help/suggestions to remove the crescent
moon crimping marks
on a roll of 120 negatives where I had trouble loading the
film to reel. I
unfortunately didn't process the film soon enough after
exposing (months)
and subsequently the film became difficult to load,
especially at the end of
the role (beginning of the exposures). The film developed
well enough except
for the crimping. Fortunately, the negative has a totally
black background
(clear on the negative) and the crimping is within this
cleared area and
does not interfere with the subject. I can maneuver the
print during the
printing process to eliminate the crimping in the final
print but I would
like to know if it is possible to completely remove the
crimping mark on the
negative permanently without damaging the negative. Any
suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks.

It think the best you can do is to retouch the prints. If
you bleach out the marks of the negatives it will leave dark
marks on the print. Its much easier to fill white or light
areas than bleach out dark ones.
Local relative humidity seems to have a effect on how
limp the film is when you load it. I've found that with the
stainless steel Nikor type reels I use that cutting the
corners of the film will help getting it started in the
reel. I am not quite sure why, perhaps because the edges
don't get it cocked in the reel. I've been using SS tanks
for 50 years now but still occasionally have trouble with
them.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

In article ,
"Richard Knoppow" wrote:


It think the best you can do is to retouch the prints. If
you bleach out the marks of the negatives it will leave dark
marks on the print. Its much easier to fill white or light
areas than bleach out dark ones.
Local relative humidity seems to have a effect on how
limp the film is when you load it. I've found that with the
stainless steel Nikor type reels I use that cutting the
corners of the film will help getting it started in the
reel. I am not quite sure why, perhaps because the edges
don't get it cocked in the reel. I've been using SS tanks
for 50 years now but still occasionally have trouble with
them.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA


Cutting beveled corners on every roll of film regardless of the reel
type in my experience is a very sound practice. A little bit of
preventative
medicine.
--
George W. Bush is the President Quayle we never had.