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#11
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UC napisał(a):
There are better non-solvent developers. Pick one - ANY one - and it will be better than Rodinal. De gustibus non disputandum est. I've picked rodinal and I'm happy with the grain and tonality it gives (1+50 or 1+75) (as well as with xtol and acutol BTW cheers -- alkos at tlen pl http://onephoto.net/portfolio.php3?id_autora=17765 |
#12
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UC napisał(a):
There are better non-solvent developers. Pick one - ANY one - and it will be better than Rodinal. De gustibus non disputandum est. I've picked rodinal and I'm happy with the grain and tonality it gives (1+50 or 1+75) (as well as with xtol and acutol BTW cheers -- alkos at tlen pl http://onephoto.net/portfolio.php3?id_autora=17765 |
#13
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alkos wrote:
: Maybe a poor man's developer, but not "poor". At all. It gives much more : defined and visually sharper image than D-76 (stock), with bigger but : nice grain (it isn't a big issue with pan-f 50, is it?) and - thats true : - lower speed. Not -1EV, maybe 0,5; so not EI 25 - go 32. Please ignore the troll. -- Keep working millions on welfare depend on you ------------------- |
#14
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Matt McGrattan napisał(a):
I have a couple of rolls of film already exposed at iso 50 so I have to develop those at the marked EV. I'll maybe give it a go at 1:50 and then experiment with 32 in future. I like this dilution. For me it's "normal" one - while 1+25 is contrasty and 1+100 soft. When you'll finish developing, don't use stop bath - just pour clean water into tank and leave it there, no stirring, for 5-10 minutes. It will give you some more shadow detail (so-called non-bromide developing) If anyone has any experience of trying it at 1:100 I'd like to hear how long they developed it for. It will give you a rather flat negative. If the subject you've photographed was very contrasty, try it. Rodinal - it's what I have. I am open to suggestions for something else in the future. Rodinal is ok... I think some would be surprised looking at i.e. HP5+ exposed at 1600 and developed in 1+100 @ 75 minutes Anyway, try X-tol. It gives full film speed, small grain if used undiluted, nice tonality (although I prefer Rodinal here), and pushes films very good if diluted from 1+1 to 1+3. cheers -- alkos at tlen pl http://onephoto.net/portfolio.php3?id_autora=17765 |
#15
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Matt McGrattan napisał(a):
I have a couple of rolls of film already exposed at iso 50 so I have to develop those at the marked EV. I'll maybe give it a go at 1:50 and then experiment with 32 in future. I like this dilution. For me it's "normal" one - while 1+25 is contrasty and 1+100 soft. When you'll finish developing, don't use stop bath - just pour clean water into tank and leave it there, no stirring, for 5-10 minutes. It will give you some more shadow detail (so-called non-bromide developing) If anyone has any experience of trying it at 1:100 I'd like to hear how long they developed it for. It will give you a rather flat negative. If the subject you've photographed was very contrasty, try it. Rodinal - it's what I have. I am open to suggestions for something else in the future. Rodinal is ok... I think some would be surprised looking at i.e. HP5+ exposed at 1600 and developed in 1+100 @ 75 minutes Anyway, try X-tol. It gives full film speed, small grain if used undiluted, nice tonality (although I prefer Rodinal here), and pushes films very good if diluted from 1+1 to 1+3. cheers -- alkos at tlen pl http://onephoto.net/portfolio.php3?id_autora=17765 |
#16
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"UC" wrote in message ups.com... Paterson FX-39 absolutely trounces Rodinal. I use it all the time. Try 1+17 dilution for 6,5 minutes at 20C/68F. DO NOT use Paterson's dilutions and times. Please explain why the developing times and dilutions that Paterson suggest, should not be used as a starting point. Matt McGrattan wrote: On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 23:37:05 +0100, alkos wrote: UC napisa?(a): Why Rodinal? It's a poor developer. It does not give as much film speed as D-76. In the case of Pan-F, use EI 25. Maybe a poor man's developer, but not "poor". At all. It gives much more defined and visually sharper image than D-76 (stock), with bigger but nice grain (it isn't a big issue with pan-f 50, is it?) and - thats true - lower speed. Not -1EV, maybe 0,5; so not EI 25 - go 32. cheers I have a couple of rolls of film already exposed at iso 50 so I have to develop those at the marked EV. I'll maybe give it a go at 1:50 and then experiment with 32 in future. If anyone has any experience of trying it at 1:100 I'd like to hear how long they developed it for. Rodinal - it's what I have. I am open to suggestions for something else in the future. What about Paterson FX-39? Matt |
#17
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"UC" wrote in message ups.com... Paterson FX-39 absolutely trounces Rodinal. I use it all the time. Try 1+17 dilution for 6,5 minutes at 20C/68F. DO NOT use Paterson's dilutions and times. Please explain why the developing times and dilutions that Paterson suggest, should not be used as a starting point. Matt McGrattan wrote: On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 23:37:05 +0100, alkos wrote: UC napisa?(a): Why Rodinal? It's a poor developer. It does not give as much film speed as D-76. In the case of Pan-F, use EI 25. Maybe a poor man's developer, but not "poor". At all. It gives much more defined and visually sharper image than D-76 (stock), with bigger but nice grain (it isn't a big issue with pan-f 50, is it?) and - thats true - lower speed. Not -1EV, maybe 0,5; so not EI 25 - go 32. cheers I have a couple of rolls of film already exposed at iso 50 so I have to develop those at the marked EV. I'll maybe give it a go at 1:50 and then experiment with 32 in future. If anyone has any experience of trying it at 1:100 I'd like to hear how long they developed it for. Rodinal - it's what I have. I am open to suggestions for something else in the future. What about Paterson FX-39? Matt |
#18
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On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 10:47:29 +0100, alkos
wrote: Matt McGrattan napisa?(a): I have a couple of rolls of film already exposed at iso 50 so I have to develop those at the marked EV. I'll maybe give it a go at 1:50 and then experiment with 32 in future. I like this dilution. For me it's "normal" one - while 1+25 is contrasty and 1+100 soft. When you'll finish developing, don't use stop bath - just pour clean water into tank and leave it there, no stirring, for 5-10 minutes. It will give you some more shadow detail (so-called non-bromide developing) I had a go this morning at 1:100. The negatives look OK. Maybe a bit flat and perhaps a little dark -- I'll need to scan them before I can get a good look. However, peering through a loupe they look much better than previous attempts -- which were incredibly grainy and contrasty. Matt |
#19
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On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 10:47:29 +0100, alkos
wrote: Matt McGrattan napisa?(a): I have a couple of rolls of film already exposed at iso 50 so I have to develop those at the marked EV. I'll maybe give it a go at 1:50 and then experiment with 32 in future. I like this dilution. For me it's "normal" one - while 1+25 is contrasty and 1+100 soft. When you'll finish developing, don't use stop bath - just pour clean water into tank and leave it there, no stirring, for 5-10 minutes. It will give you some more shadow detail (so-called non-bromide developing) I had a go this morning at 1:100. The negatives look OK. Maybe a bit flat and perhaps a little dark -- I'll need to scan them before I can get a good look. However, peering through a loupe they look much better than previous attempts -- which were incredibly grainy and contrasty. Matt |
#20
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On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 10:47:29 +0100, alkos
wrote: Anyway, try X-tol. It gives full film speed, small grain if used undiluted, nice tonality (although I prefer Rodinal here), and pushes films very good if diluted from 1+1 to 1+3. As long as it works. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Please remove the "_" when replying via email |
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