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#11
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On Aug 14, 6:44 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote:
Its not an exact match - the original bulb is thinner and longer. Microtek rated the bulb for 6000 hours. The driver board looks pristine, so I figure its easy enough to solder in the new one and try it. Please let us know of the results. |
#12
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On Aug 14, 7:17 am, Noons wrote:
On Aug 14, 6:44 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote: Its not an exact match - the original bulb is thinner and longer. Microtek rated the bulb for 6000 hours. The driver board looks pristine, so I figure its easy enough to solder in the new one and try it. Please let us know of the results. I'm sorry to say, the new bulb did not make a difference. It does light, sometimes, but after using it for a couple of scans, it goes out and won't relight. Same behavior as the old bulb. From what I can tell, the driver board has 3 inputs, Ground, CTL and +12, so its not as easy as replacing it with an off the shelf inverter board. |
#13
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On Sep 18, 10:09 pm, "Neil Gould" wrote:
Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted: On Aug 14, 7:17 am, Noons wrote: On Aug 14, 6:44 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote: Its not an exact match - the original bulb is thinner and longer. Microtek rated the bulb for 6000 hours. The driver board looks pristine, so I figure its easy enough to solder in the new one and try it. Please let us know of the results. I'm sorry to say, the new bulb did not make a difference. It does light, sometimes, but after using it for a couple of scans, it goes out and won't relight. Same behavior as the old bulb. From what I can tell, the driver board has 3 inputs, Ground, CTL and +12, so its not as easy as replacing it with an off the shelf inverter board. Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. Thanks for the follow-up. yeah, same feeling here... |
#14
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Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted:
On Aug 14, 7:17 am, Noons wrote: On Aug 14, 6:44 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote: Its not an exact match - the original bulb is thinner and longer. Microtek rated the bulb for 6000 hours. The driver board looks pristine, so I figure its easy enough to solder in the new one and try it. Please let us know of the results. I'm sorry to say, the new bulb did not make a difference. It does light, sometimes, but after using it for a couple of scans, it goes out and won't relight. Same behavior as the old bulb. From what I can tell, the driver board has 3 inputs, Ground, CTL and +12, so its not as easy as replacing it with an off the shelf inverter board. Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. Thanks for the follow-up. Regards, Neil |
#15
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On Sep 18, 8:09 am, "Neil Gould" wrote:
Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted: On Aug 14, 7:17 am, Noons wrote: On Aug 14, 6:44 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote: Its not an exact match - the original bulb is thinner and longer. Microtek rated the bulb for 6000 hours. The driver board looks pristine, so I figure its easy enough to solder in the new one and try it. Please let us know of the results. I'm sorry to say, the new bulb did not make a difference. It does light, sometimes, but after using it for a couple of scans, it goes out and won't relight. Same behavior as the old bulb. From what I can tell, the driver board has 3 inputs, Ground, CTL and +12, so its not as easy as replacing it with an off the shelf inverter board. Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. Thanks for the follow-up. Regards, Neil There are 2 caps on the driver board - one connects to the lamp output and the transformer. Its labeled "1S 3KV SEC:". The "S" might be an "8" The other cap is near the input, between ground and +12V and is labeled ".47uf 50V" |
#16
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Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted:
On Sep 18, 8:09 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. There are 2 caps on the driver board - one connects to the lamp output and the transformer. Its labeled "1S 3KV SEC:". The "S" might be an "8" This is a likely culprit. The key is the "...3KV...", or 3,000 volt rating. All of the lamps had a trigger voltage higher than a couple hundred volts, and it is typical that a capacitor such as this one would feed a coil that connects to the lamp (you may be mistaking the coil for a tranformer?). I'd replace this cap and see what happens. The other cap is near the input, between ground and +12V and is labeled ".47uf 50V" I doubt that this cap would affect the problem at hand, but while you're in there, replace it, too. Neil |
#17
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On Sep 18, 10:01 am, "Neil Gould" wrote:
Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted: On Sep 18, 8:09 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. There are 2 caps on the driver board - one connects to the lamp output and the transformer. Its labeled "1S 3KV SEC:". The "S" might be an "8" This is a likely culprit. The key is the "...3KV...", or 3,000 volt rating. All of the lamps had a trigger voltage higher than a couple hundred volts, and it is typical that a capacitor such as this one would feed a coil that connects to the lamp (you may be mistaking the coil for a tranformer?). I'd replace this cap and see what happens. The other cap is near the input, between ground and +12V and is labeled ".47uf 50V" I doubt that this cap would affect the problem at hand, but while you're in there, replace it, too. Neil i just ordered from Mouser. will report back... |
#18
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On Sep 18, 10:25 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote:
On Sep 18, 10:01 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted: On Sep 18, 8:09 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. There are 2 caps on the driver board - one connects to the lamp output and the transformer. Its labeled "1S 3KV SEC:". The "S" might be an "8" This is a likely culprit. The key is the "...3KV...", or 3,000 volt rating. All of the lamps had a trigger voltage higher than a couple hundred volts, and it is typical that a capacitor such as this one would feed a coil that connects to the lamp (you may be mistaking the coil for a tranformer?). I'd replace this cap and see what happens. The other cap is near the input, between ground and +12V and is labeled ".47uf 50V" I doubt that this cap would affect the problem at hand, but while you're in there, replace it, too. Neil i just ordered from Mouser. will report back... The new capacitor is in. So far, I've scanned a couple of slides and a couple of negatives and it seems to be working. This is using the new bulb and the scans look fine, with no recalibration other than what Lasersoft does automatically. I also replaced the noisy fan, so I'm very happy. Thanks for your help! |
#19
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On Sep 21, 12:52 pm, viewerofrecphoto wrote:
On Sep 18, 10:25 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote: On Sep 18, 10:01 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted: On Sep 18, 8:09 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. There are 2 caps on the driver board - one connects to the lamp output and the transformer. Its labeled "1S 3KV SEC:". The "S" might be an "8" This is a likely culprit. The key is the "...3KV...", or 3,000 volt rating. All of the lamps had a trigger voltage higher than a couple hundred volts, and it is typical that a capacitor such as this one would feed a coil that connects to the lamp (you may be mistaking the coil for a tranformer?). I'd replace this cap and see what happens. The other cap is near the input, between ground and +12V and is labeled ".47uf 50V" I doubt that this cap would affect the problem at hand, but while you're in there, replace it, too. Neil i just ordered from Mouser. will report back... The new capacitor is in. So far, I've scanned a couple of slides and a couple of negatives and it seems to be working. This is using the new bulb and the scans look fine, with no recalibration other than what Lasersoft does automatically. I also replaced the noisy fan, so I'm very happy. Thanks for your help! Thank you for sharing this information, I'm sure it will be useful to others! |
#20
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Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted:
On Sep 18, 10:25 am, viewerofrecphoto wrote: On Sep 18, 10:01 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Recently, viewerofrecphoto posted: On Sep 18, 8:09 am, "Neil Gould" wrote: Sorry to hear that the easy solution wasn't the fix. If I follow what you've described, that it works soon after you turn the unit on, but soon stops working, it sounds as if there is a bad capacitor in the lamp's trigger voltage circuit. There are 2 caps on the driver board - one connects to the lamp output and the transformer. Its labeled "1S 3KV SEC:". The "S" might be an "8" This is a likely culprit. The key is the "...3KV...", or 3,000 volt rating. All of the lamps had a trigger voltage higher than a couple hundred volts, and it is typical that a capacitor such as this one would feed a coil that connects to the lamp (you may be mistaking the coil for a tranformer?). I'd replace this cap and see what happens. The other cap is near the input, between ground and +12V and is labeled ".47uf 50V" I doubt that this cap would affect the problem at hand, but while you're in there, replace it, too. Neil i just ordered from Mouser. will report back... The new capacitor is in. So far, I've scanned a couple of slides and a couple of negatives and it seems to be working. This is using the new bulb and the scans look fine, with no recalibration other than what Lasersoft does automatically. I also replaced the noisy fan, so I'm very happy. Thanks for your help! I'm glad you got it up and running again! Who knows... I might need to do the same to my 120TF some day. Neil |
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