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Tri-x 400 examples



 
 
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  #11  
Old March 7th 05, 09:21 PM
Alan Browne
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R.Schenck wrote:

I seriously resent you linking to a site with pop-ups.

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  #12  
Old March 8th 05, 05:23 AM
Peter Irwin
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In rec.photo.equipment.35mm wrote:
I just wanted to respond to multiple posters at once. Thanks for all
the replies.

I had the film developed at a 'pro' shop nearby, the images on-line are
what came on the photo-cd that they also made, so I'd think that they
are scanned from negatives.


They did a poor job (or you did something funny to their file),
the blank highlights are not the fault of film or exposure.
The detail is certain to be there on the negative. If you want
to use them again, I would suggest taking your negatives and the
scans to them and showing what is wrong. If they are a pro lab
in any sane sense of the word they should be able to get you
better scans.

I have no darkroom nor ability to develop film and process prints on my
own and usually go to a 'market' type developer with my color film.
I've had problems getting them to develop anything 'pushed' in one
direction or another so will probably go to a pro-shop to develop
anything I do that with in the future.


If you want good B&W it really makes sense to do it yourself.
It is actually fairly easy to get results which are better
than anyone else is likely to do for you. It also gives you
good feedback on your technical ability with the camera
which you don't get when someone else does your printing.

Developing B&W film is easy and the equipment is inexpensive.
A tank, a thermometer, a measuring cup, some old bottles, and
a packet of developer and a bottle of rapid fixer is all you need
to get started. It should be easy to get it all for under $50
or possibly even half of that.

The printing set-up is only a little more expensive given what
used enlargers can be had for these days, but I would suggest
finding out what is available in your community. Some schools
have adult education courses in photography where you can use
their darkroom.

Peter.
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  #13  
Old March 8th 05, 09:22 AM
geletine
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Bob Hickey wrote:
"R.Schenck" wrote in message
...
I exposed at 400 speed
http://photobucket.com/albums/y13/Nygdan/Boston%20BnW/?

This one seems like perhaps it could'vebeen sharper, to have more

detail
on
what I think is a filled in doorway.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13...oll1DX-04A.jpg

I rather like this one, I didn't realize that it was a bit over

exposed
when I had first gotten the print, but now that i've had at least

some
experience with this sort of thing its rather obvious

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13...oll1DX-02A.jpg

Should this t-x 400 be exposed at some other speed perhaps, 400 is

the
usual no?

Any criticisms of the photos would be appreciated from either group


To me, they look like the paper grade is too high, or

they've
been overdeveloped a little. Labs usually go with a lot more

contrast than
I do, but that's the opinion of the wolds worst scanner. That would

be me.
I usually expose Tri-X @ 200, D76 1:1 is a very easy to use

developer,
although I like Rodinal when I can get it. It's necessary to find

your own
standard everything. Don't be afraid to bracket a few shots and

bracket
developement. The results will pay off in the future. I find that way

too
much contrast makes better scans, but I develop for prints, so

there's the
tradeoff. Bob Hickey


I was just wondering how you bracket development, presuming you mean
per frame, if you mean the whole roll, forgive me for asking

  #14  
Old March 8th 05, 10:14 AM
geletine
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geletine wrote:
Bob Hickey wrote:
"R.Schenck" wrote in message
...
I exposed at 400 speed
http://photobucket.com/albums/y13/Nygdan/Boston%20BnW/?

This one seems like perhaps it could'vebeen sharper, to have more

detail
on
what I think is a filled in doorway.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13...oll1DX-04A.jpg

I rather like this one, I didn't realize that it was a bit over

exposed
when I had first gotten the print, but now that i've had at least

some
experience with this sort of thing its rather obvious


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13...oll1DX-02A.jpg

Should this t-x 400 be exposed at some other speed perhaps, 400

is
the
usual no?

Any criticisms of the photos would be appreciated from either

group


To me, they look like the paper grade is too high, or

they've
been overdeveloped a little. Labs usually go with a lot more

contrast than
I do, but that's the opinion of the wolds worst scanner. That would

be me.
I usually expose Tri-X @ 200, D76 1:1 is a very easy to use

developer,
although I like Rodinal when I can get it. It's necessary to find

your own
standard everything. Don't be afraid to bracket a few shots and

bracket
developement. The results will pay off in the future. I find that

way
too
much contrast makes better scans, but I develop for prints, so

there's the
tradeoff. Bob Hickey


I was just wondering how you bracket development, presuming you mean
per frame, if you mean the whole roll, forgive me for asking


I would like to add, I am talking about roll film, not large format
sheet film

  #15  
Old March 8th 05, 12:46 PM
Bob Hickey
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Default


"geletine" wrote in message
oups.com...

I was just wondering how you bracket development, presuming you mean
per frame, if you mean the whole roll, forgive me for asking
Just shoot about 6 or 8 frames, a few blanks. 6 or 8

more, etc, then cut them into 3 lengths. Look up the times on the Massive
Developement chart; then Bracket. If they recommend 10 mins, try 8, 10, and
12. When I wrote that, I didn't know you were sending them out.
Bob Hickey


  #17  
Old March 14th 05, 12:01 AM
R.Schenck
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Default

Alan Browne on 07 Mar 2005 posted

R.Schenck wrote:

I seriously resent you linking to a site with pop-ups.


Does it have pop-ups? Man, that /is/ annoying. I'm not sure if I like the
photobucket site, but there don't seem to be any free sites that are much
better, and I'm not going to spend for a pay site. No, I'm not cheap, I'm
'thrifty'.


Ok I'm cheap.


 




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