storing rodinal

Now that the last mad dash for Rodinal is on, what is the best way to
atore it for the long haul, ie 5,10,20 years? Given Rodinal's long
shelf life, is there any point in refrigerating it? I found one post on
photonet saying its unwise to refrigerate liquid chemicals because some
things may precipitate that wont remix, but others say they have
refrigerated (or even frozen!) liquids.

they say it keeps for yeaeaears, and it keeps it's properties even after it
turns dark brown.
But don't panic: there is APH09 frop ADOX too, with about the same
characteristics, APH09 is based upon the Rodinal formula.
Bought me a bottle (www.fotoimpex.de) and I don't regret.

For thos not familiar with the name ADOX: it has been called Calbe before,
see www.digitaltruth.com for time tables (select on developers by Calbe).

Jan

"Joe" schreef in bericht
ups.com...
| Now that the last mad dash for Rodinal is on, what is the best way to
| atore it for the long haul, ie 5,10,20 years? Given Rodinal's long
| shelf life, is there any point in refrigerating it? I found one post on
| photonet saying its unwise to refrigerate liquid chemicals because some
| things may precipitate that wont remix, but others say they have
| refrigerated (or even frozen!) liquids.
|

I have read that the Calbe is decidedly different than Rodinal.


Jan T wrote:
they say it keeps for yeaeaears, and it keeps it's properties even after it
turns dark brown.
But don't panic: there is APH09 frop ADOX too, with about the same
characteristics, APH09 is based upon the Rodinal formula.
Bought me a bottle (www.fotoimpex.de) and I don't regret.

For thos not familiar with the name ADOX: it has been called Calbe before,
see www.digitaltruth.com for time tables (select on developers by Calbe).

Jan

"Joe" schreef in bericht
ups.com...
| Now that the last mad dash for Rodinal is on, what is the best way to
| atore it for the long haul, ie 5,10,20 years? Given Rodinal's long
| shelf life, is there any point in refrigerating it? I found one post on
| photonet saying its unwise to refrigerate liquid chemicals because some
| things may precipitate that wont remix, but others say they have
| refrigerated (or even frozen!) liquids.
|

Store August Rodin(al) in an oven at about 6000F.



Joe wrote:
Now that the last mad dash for Rodinal is on, what is the best way to
atore it for the long haul, ie 5,10,20 years? Given Rodinal's long
shelf life, is there any point in refrigerating it? I found one post on
photonet saying its unwise to refrigerate liquid chemicals because some
things may precipitate that wont remix, but others say they have
refrigerated (or even frozen!) liquids.

In article ,
"Jan T" writes:

But don't panic: there is APH09 frop ADOX too, with about the same
characteristics, APH09 is based upon the Rodinal formula.
Bought me a bottle (www.fotoimpex.de) and I don't regret.

For thos not familiar with the name ADOX: it has been called Calbe before,
see www.digitaltruth.com for time tables (select on developers by Calbe).

For those in the US (I don't know where the OP is), Calbe R09 is available
from J&C (http://www.jandcphoto.com). Fomadon R09 is another brand with
(supposedly) the same formula as Calbe R09. AFAIK Fomadon R09 is not
readily available in the US, but is available in Europe. Also,
Photographer's Formulary (http://www.photoformulary.com) sells a Rodinal
clone, but the description sounds like it ships in powdered form. If so,
it's probably just small bags with the constituent chemicals. You can buy
these and mix it yourself from scratch. Here's one formula:

http://www.jackspcs.com/frodinal.htm

Note that several "Rodinal-like" developer formulas have been published. I
don't know which one is closest to what Agfa now sells as Rodinal, or to
the original (patented in 1891). Mixing Rodinal from solid chemicals is
potentially more dangerous than mixing most other developers because it
requires handling potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide (depending on
which formula you follow). Both are very caustic substances that tend to
heat up when they're added to water, enough so they can cause boiling. If
you're not comfortable with this, best to stick with Agfa Rodinal for as
long as your stock lasts or switch to Calbe R09, Fomadon R09, or whatever
other pre-mixed substitutes emerge in the coming months or years.

If you're concerned about getting precisely identical results, buy some
now and try it out to judge its effects for yourself. IIRC, Calbe R09
requires slightly different dilutions than Agfa Rodinal, so be sure to
research that before using it.

As to the original question, though....

"Joe" schreef in bericht
ups.com...
| Now that the last mad dash for Rodinal is on, what is the best way to
| atore it for the long haul, ie 5,10,20 years? Given Rodinal's long
| shelf life, is there any point in refrigerating it? I found one post on
| photonet saying its unwise to refrigerate liquid chemicals because some
| things may precipitate that wont remix, but others say they have
| refrigerated (or even frozen!) liquids.

I've heard the same advice about freezing liquid developers. I wouldn't
try it. It might be worth transferring the developer from the plastic jars
Agfa uses (or used, I guess) into glass jars. The plastic is more
permeable to air than glass, so glass jars will help long-term storage, at
least in theory.

Personally, I wouldn't bother stocking up. Although alternatives like
Calbe R09 are currently available from very few sources, I'm sure
distribution will improve once Agfa's Rodinal stream dries up; or maybe
some other company (Ilford, say) will begin marketing the stuff, possibly
even based on Agfa's current formula.

--
Rod Smith,
http://www.rodsbooks.com
Author of books on Linux, FreeBSD, and networking

Rod Smith wrote:

Personally, I wouldn't bother stocking up. Although alternatives like
Calbe R09 are currently available from very few sources, I'm sure
distribution will improve once Agfa's Rodinal stream dries up; or maybe
some other company (Ilford, say) will begin marketing the stuff, possibly
even based on Agfa's current formula.

a couple years ago I would have agreed, but not anymore. What will keep
Calbe in business (I dnt even know what their business is)? No, I think
expecting the worst is the best strategy now. I'm not going to buy a
lifetime supply of Rodinal though, just a buffer (already on the way).

I have put all my stored Rodinal and ektaflo paper developer in amber
glass bottles and taped the caps to insure a perfect seal.

Regards.

Bob Mccarthy

"Rod Smith" wrote

potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide [AKA lye/Draino] ...
heat up when they're added to water, enough so they
can cause boiling.

They also quickly eat holes in your skin. Na/KOH + fat
[in skin & cellular membranes] == soap. If your
skin feels soapy rinse well with lots of warm water and then
splash on some vinegar/stop bath.

As youngsters, my neighbor and I were fooling around
with a jar of NaOH pellets the chemistry teacher had
let him have -- times were different then, the school
of hard knocks was still open -- and there was this
strange sensation - "what in *** is under my fingernail".
A learning experience.

Draino is lye plus metal shavings so that it -theoretically-
doesn't eat a hole in the sink drain. Red Devil lye is
pure lye that can be used photographically.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
Fstop timer - http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm

Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:

"Rod Smith" wrote



potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide [AKA lye/Draino] ...
heat up when they're added to water, enough so they
can cause boiling.



They also quickly eat holes in your skin. Na/KOH + fat
[in skin & cellular membranes] == soap. If your
skin feels soapy rinse well with lots of warm water and then
splash on some vinegar/stop bath.

As youngsters, my neighbor and I were fooling around
with a jar of NaOH pellets the chemistry teacher had
let him have -- times were different then, the school
of hard knocks was still open -- and there was this
strange sensation - "what in *** is under my fingernail".
A learning experience.

Draino is lye plus metal shavings so that it -theoretically-
doesn't eat a hole in the sink drain. Red Devil lye is
pure lye that can be used photographically.



I think the shavings are there to cause bubbling which is supposed to
loosen deposits.

On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 00:55:15 -0500, PATRICK
GAINER wrote:
....
I think the shavings are there to cause bubbling which is supposed to
loosen deposits.


October 31, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

And heat. I think the metal shavings are
magnesium. Bubbling and boiling. Happy
Hallowe'en!

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email:
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
--