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Quality of negatives for scanning



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 30th 06, 12:58 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
[email protected]
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Posts: 6
Default Quality of negatives for scanning

Hi all,

We wanted to get our 35mm film developed and scanned. Our local photo
lab or Walmart type place can only produce scanned images good enough
to print a 4x6 at best, they're tiny (100K) jpeg files.

I have just found that I have access to a negative scanner at work and
was thinking of trying that out.

Does anyone know if it would make a difference where the negatives are
produced? ie. a walmart type place uses a seemingly standard
processing machine, they feed the roll in one side and a set of
negatives and pictures comes out the other (or atleast seems that way).
Would it make a different to me in scanning the negatives if I could
the film developed at a Walmart/Kroger or at Joe's Professional Film
Lab? Or is it the type of film that would really make a difference
when scanning the negatives in?

Thanks,

Kevin

  #2  
Old October 30th 06, 03:59 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
rafe b
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Posts: 169
Default Quality of negatives for scanning


wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi all,

We wanted to get our 35mm film developed and scanned. Our local photo
lab or Walmart type place can only produce scanned images good enough
to print a 4x6 at best, they're tiny (100K) jpeg files.

I have just found that I have access to a negative scanner at work and
was thinking of trying that out.

Does anyone know if it would make a difference where the negatives are
produced? ie. a walmart type place uses a seemingly standard
processing machine, they feed the roll in one side and a set of
negatives and pictures comes out the other (or atleast seems that way).
Would it make a different to me in scanning the negatives if I could
the film developed at a Walmart/Kroger or at Joe's Professional Film
Lab? Or is it the type of film that would really make a difference
when scanning the negatives in?



Obvously the end-quality depends on the film itself and
your skills as a photographer. C41 processing is
ubiquitious and takes no particular skill.

OTOH, there are a number of ways that film can be
screwed up in processing by carelessness, mis-handling,
old chemistry, etc. etc.

So it's mostly a matter of finding a lab that takes the
proper care. I wish there were a more definitive
answer -- but that's been my experience over many
years. Once you find a good lab, stick with it.

One more idea/suggestion: ask for "processing only" --
ie., no prints. In my experience, a good deal of the
mis-handling wasn't in the processing per se, but in
the mis-handling during the printing stage.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com


  #3  
Old October 30th 06, 04:42 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
bmoag
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Posts: 235
Default Quality of negatives for scanning

I think that one of the reasons that digital P&S destroyed film P&S shooting
so rapidly was because of how unspeakably lousy most commercial
photofinishing was and still is. In camera jpeg processing is far superior
to the corner walmart/drug store minilab. It shouldn't be, but it is.
I had no clue what was locked in my color negatives until I got my first
film scanner, the original HP photosmart, now many years ago.


  #4  
Old October 30th 06, 05:12 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
jeremy
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Posts: 984
Default Quality of negatives for scanning


Does anyone know if it would make a difference where the negatives are
produced? ie. a walmart type place uses a seemingly standard
processing machine, they feed the roll in one side and a set of
negatives and pictures comes out the other (or atleast seems that way).
Would it make a different to me in scanning the negatives if I could
the film developed at a Walmart/Kroger or at Joe's Professional Film
Lab?


You will not be able to just feed a roll of negatives into a scanner and
have the prints come out.

Film scanners are separate from printers. A film scanner creates a digital
image file, just as one would get from a standard digital camera. You would
typically burn those image files to a CD, and then taken them home and edit
them in PhotoShop, Paint Shop Pro, or some other editing program, to adjust
things like brightness, contrast, color saturation, color balance,
sharpness, etc. Once you've tweaked the file to be the way you want it, you
would print the images. You could print them on a home inkjet, or take them
to a camera shop that does on-site printing of digital files, or you could
upload them to an online printer and they would mail the prints back to you.

Once you scan the film into digital image files, you have choices. The
first step is to scan the film, and you need to know something about
technique. Scanners can be set to a wide range of resolutions, and you
would want high-resolution scans for best results. Also, the scanner will
give superior results if it has ICE3, as opposed to scanners that don't,
because it can correct scratches and dust spots in just a couple of minutes,
whereas it might take you hours to manually get every one if you had to do
the job yourself.

At this point, you should try to get someone to teach you how to use the
scanner that is available to you, and to create digital files. Since you
have no prior experience with scanning, don't expect to be up to speed at
the very outset. There is a learning curve involved.

The benefit is that once you learn how to extract the maximum information
from your film images, and then to use editing software to tweak them just
right, you will be able to produce prints that rival those of custom labs,
and you can get them done at cheap prices. After all, you were the one that
did most of the work.

I recommend that you look at www.scantips.com to get a feel for some of the
factors involved. Then try to produce good scans of your negs. Only then
should you work on learning to edit them.


  #5  
Old October 30th 06, 05:19 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Nicholas O. Lindan
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Posts: 1,227
Default Quality of negatives for scanning

"rafe b" wrote

One more idea/suggestion: ask for "processing only" --
ie., no prints. In my experience, a good deal of the
mis-handling wasn't in the processing per se, but in
the mis-handling during the printing stage.


My Mileage Did Vary [MMDV?]: When I asked for 'negs only'
they took the whole 6' strip and rolled it back into the
little plastic can, sweeping the floor with the loose end
and then tightening the roll to get the film into the can
and the dirt into the emulsion. Happened thrice at three
different establishments. If I just let them do the same
old same old same old and make prints and put them in
sleeves they do it just fine.

Maybe it is a strategy to keep folks from ordering
'negs only'.

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com


  #6  
Old October 30th 06, 06:22 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
William Graham
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Posts: 4,361
Default Quality of negatives for scanning


"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote in message
hlink.net...
"rafe b" wrote

One more idea/suggestion: ask for "processing only" --
ie., no prints. In my experience, a good deal of the
mis-handling wasn't in the processing per se, but in
the mis-handling during the printing stage.


My Mileage Did Vary [MMDV?]: When I asked for 'negs only'
they took the whole 6' strip and rolled it back into the
little plastic can, sweeping the floor with the loose end
and then tightening the roll to get the film into the can
and the dirt into the emulsion. Happened thrice at three
different establishments. If I just let them do the same
old same old same old and make prints and put them in
sleeves they do it just fine.

Maybe it is a strategy to keep folks from ordering
'negs only'.

Same experience here....They gave me the film back rolled up in the plastic
jar that normally holds the film canister.....When I unrolled it for
scanning, there were numerous scratches and dust spots on it.....More than I
would normally expect to find on film that I would get back cut into strips
for printing. As a matter of fact, the best quality printing of film I can
get is in slides.....For some reason, the people who handle slide film, and
mount it into slides, take about the best care of film I have been able to
get from anyone......Another reason why I pretty near always just shoot
slide film......But, in general, I think the only way to keep dust, dirt,
and scratches away from your pictures is to go 100% digital. This may be
sad, but it is true. I have several thousand dollars tied up in film
equipment....Cameras, scanners, and associated computer software.....If I
were ten years younger, I would sell it all and buy a good quality digital
camera that mounts my lens set, and be done with film forever......At least
then, I would have no one to blame for bad pictures but myself.


  #7  
Old October 30th 06, 06:29 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
William Graham
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,361
Default Quality of negatives for scanning


"jeremy" wrote in message
news:Znq1h.3440$OK3.2046@trndny09...

Does anyone know if it would make a difference where the negatives are
produced? ie. a walmart type place uses a seemingly standard
processing machine, they feed the roll in one side and a set of
negatives and pictures comes out the other (or atleast seems that way).
Would it make a different to me in scanning the negatives if I could
the film developed at a Walmart/Kroger or at Joe's Professional Film
Lab?


You will not be able to just feed a roll of negatives into a scanner and
have the prints come out.

Film scanners are separate from printers. A film scanner creates a
digital image file, just as one would get from a standard digital camera.
You would typically burn those image files to a CD, and then taken them
home and edit them in PhotoShop, Paint Shop Pro, or some other editing
program, to adjust things like brightness, contrast, color saturation,
color balance, sharpness, etc. Once you've tweaked the file to be the way
you want it, you would print the images. You could print them on a home
inkjet, or take them to a camera shop that does on-site printing of
digital files, or you could upload them to an online printer and they
would mail the prints back to you.

Once you scan the film into digital image files, you have choices. The
first step is to scan the film, and you need to know something about
technique. Scanners can be set to a wide range of resolutions, and you
would want high-resolution scans for best results. Also, the scanner will
give superior results if it has ICE3, as opposed to scanners that don't,
because it can correct scratches and dust spots in just a couple of
minutes, whereas it might take you hours to manually get every one if you
had to do the job yourself.

At this point, you should try to get someone to teach you how to use the
scanner that is available to you, and to create digital files. Since you
have no prior experience with scanning, don't expect to be up to speed at
the very outset. There is a learning curve involved.

The benefit is that once you learn how to extract the maximum information
from your film images, and then to use editing software to tweak them just
right, you will be able to produce prints that rival those of custom labs,
and you can get them done at cheap prices. After all, you were the one
that did most of the work.

I recommend that you look at www.scantips.com to get a feel for some of
the factors involved. Then try to produce good scans of your negs. Only
then should you work on learning to edit them.

Hear, hear! - But why not buy a good printer too, and cut the labs out of
the picture altogether? For the first time in history, photographers can
become totally independent, and do it all themselves. (Not counting the
fact, of course, that we have to buy this fancy equipment from the
manufacturers.)


  #8  
Old October 30th 06, 06:57 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
rafe b
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 169
Default Quality of negatives for scanning


"Nicholas O. Lindan" wrote in message
hlink.net...

My Mileage Did Vary [MMDV?]



Absolutely. I've been through *lots* of photo labs.

Some did OK for a while and then got sloppy.
Others were sloppy "sometimes" and I just put
up with the odds. Some were "pro" labs that
were even worse than the local mini-lab. There
was absolutlely no pattern to it.

The lab I'm using now is the closest to my
house.. just a small local shop. The guy that
runs the place looks and dresses like he just
stepped off his Harley.

And yet they've done consistent, quality work
for me since day I started dealing with them,
about four years ago. I can't figure it out
either, but for once, I'm not complaining.

FWIW, processing-only of C41 is $3.50.
Same price for 35mm or 120.


rafe b
www.terrapinphoto.com


  #9  
Old October 30th 06, 07:05 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
jeremy
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Posts: 984
Default Quality of negatives for scanning

"rafe b" wrote in message
...

either, but for once, I'm not complaining.

FWIW, processing-only of C41 is $3.50.
Same price for 35mm or 120.



My local CVS Pharmacy has a Noritsu processor. They develop my negatives
while I wait (about 15 minutes) for $2.50.

Their photo department is open 24/7.

I shot a roll yesterday morning, then dropped by the pharmacy and had the
negs developed. I took the canister right out of my camera and handed it to
the operator. I had my negs 15 minutes later.

Life is good!


  #10  
Old October 30th 06, 07:29 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.35mm
Philip Homburg
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Posts: 576
Default Quality of negatives for scanning

In article ,
William Graham wrote:
For the first time in history, photographers can
become totally independent, and do it all themselves.


It seems to me that you still have to buy your paper and ink.

And you now depend on a lot of high-tech gizmos instead of just film,
paper, and some chemicals (and some other relatively low-tech stuff like
cameras and an enlarger)


--
That was it. Done. The faulty Monk was turned out into the desert where it
could believe what it liked, including the idea that it had been hard done
by. It was allowed to keep its horse, since horses were so cheap to make.
-- Douglas Adams in Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency
 




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