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Nikon Speedlight SB600



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 16th 07, 02:04 PM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
Bruce
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Posts: 119
Default Nikon Speedlight SB600

Hi

I've started using the SB600 and I'm not clear about the flash sync settings
that Nikon mention in the D80 & Sb600 instructions. What is the standard
shutter sync speed on the D80 1/60th ? Then they go on about slow sync & FP
sync. Guessing I use slow sync below 1/30th and have FP set on the camera
which I assume will cover speeds over 1/125.

Is this correct.

Thanks Bruce


  #2  
Old September 16th 07, 03:47 PM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
Paul Furman
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Posts: 7,367
Default Nikon Speedlight SB600

Bruce wrote:

Hi

I've started using the SB600 and I'm not clear about the flash sync settings
that Nikon mention in the D80 & Sb600 instructions. What is the standard
shutter sync speed on the D80 1/60th ?


1/200

Then they go on about slow sync & FP
sync. Guessing I use slow sync below 1/30th and have FP set on the camera
which I assume will cover speeds over 1/125.


Above 1/200 FP high speed synch mode takes you to 1/4000

Is this correct.


Right, the numbers are better though.


Thanks Bruce




--
Paul Furman Photography
http://edgehill.net
Bay Natives Nursery
http://www.baynatives.com
  #3  
Old September 16th 07, 04:03 PM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
Bruce
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Posts: 119
Default Nikon Speedlight SB600

Thanks Paul

When do you need to use slow sync?


Bruce


"Paul Furman" wrote in message
t...
Bruce wrote:

Hi

I've started using the SB600 and I'm not clear about the flash sync
settings that Nikon mention in the D80 & Sb600 instructions. What is the
standard shutter sync speed on the D80 1/60th ?


1/200

Then they go on about slow sync & FP sync. Guessing I use slow sync below
1/30th and have FP set on the camera which I assume will cover speeds
over 1/125.


Above 1/200 FP high speed synch mode takes you to 1/4000

Is this correct.


Right, the numbers are better though.


Thanks Bruce



--
Paul Furman Photography
http://edgehill.net
Bay Natives Nursery
http://www.baynatives.com



  #4  
Old September 16th 07, 04:26 PM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
David Ruether
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Posts: 495
Default Nikon Speedlight SB600



"Bruce" wrote in message . uk...
"Paul Furman" wrote in message t...
Bruce wrote:


I've started using the SB600 and I'm not clear about the flash sync settings that Nikon mention in the D80 & Sb600 instructions.
What is the standard shutter sync speed on the D80 1/60th ?


1/200


Then they go on about slow sync & FP sync. Guessing I use slow sync below 1/30th and have FP set on the camera which I assume
will cover speeds over 1/125.


Above 1/200 FP high speed synch mode takes you to 1/4000


Is this correct.


Right, the numbers are better though.
--
Paul Furman Photography


When do you need to use slow sync?
Bruce


When you want to use slow shutter speeds, as for using available light with the
flash - especially in low light levels. In this situation, you can als make good use
of the rear curtain synch, and also the ability to apportion the relative amount of
flash and available light exposures in the photo.
[BTW, please bottom or "interleave" your posts so that a logical posting order
can be maintained without having to edit the thread entries, as I did here...]
--
David Ruether

http://www.donferrario.com/ruether


  #5  
Old September 16th 07, 04:34 PM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
Bruce
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 119
Default Nikon Speedlight SB600


"David Ruether" wrote in message
...


"Bruce" wrote in message
. uk...
"Paul Furman" wrote in message
t...
Bruce wrote:


I've started using the SB600 and I'm not clear about the flash sync
settings that Nikon mention in the D80 & Sb600 instructions. What is
the standard shutter sync speed on the D80 1/60th ?


1/200


Then they go on about slow sync & FP sync. Guessing I use slow sync
below 1/30th and have FP set on the camera which I assume will cover
speeds over 1/125.


Above 1/200 FP high speed synch mode takes you to 1/4000


Is this correct.


Right, the numbers are better though.
--
Paul Furman Photography


When do you need to use slow sync?
Bruce


When you want to use slow shutter speeds, as for using available light
with the
flash - especially in low light levels. In this situation, you can als
make good use
of the rear curtain synch, and also the ability to apportion the relative
amount of
flash and available light exposures in the photo.
[BTW, please bottom or "interleave" your posts so that a logical posting
order
can be maintained without having to edit the thread entries, as I did
here...]
--
David Ruether

http://www.donferrario.com/ruether


One photo I want to take is of a large country church interior.Last time I
tried the shadow area to left & right of the aisle was a bit underexposed
but the stained glass windows were overexposed. So on my next visit I
propose to (using a tripod) take a couple of shots exposed for the
windows,then the main aisle using my one SB600 fired to left then right
(exposure was around 30 seconds). Then in Elements 4 superimpose the
windows. Is this practicle?

Bruce




  #6  
Old September 16th 07, 11:02 PM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
David Ruether
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 495
Default Nikon Speedlight SB600



"Bruce" wrote in message k...
"David Ruether" wrote in message ...
"Bruce" wrote in message . uk...


When do you need to use slow sync?
Bruce


When you want to use slow shutter speeds, as for using available
light with the flash - especially in low light levels. In this situation, you can also make good use of the rear curtain synch
[with moving subjects and dark backgrounds], and also use the ability to apportion the relative amount of flash and available
light exposure in the photo.
--
David Ruether


One photo I want to take is of a large country church interior.Last time I tried the shadow area to left & right of the aisle was
a bit underexposed but the stained glass windows were overexposed. So on my next visit I propose to (using a tripod) take a couple
of shots exposed for the windows,then the main aisle using my one SB600 fired to left then right (exposure was around 30 seconds).
Then in Elements 4 superimpose the windows. Is this practicle?

Bruce


I don't know what the out-of-coverage-angle illumination
roll-off of the SB-600 is like (it was very gradual with the
SB-24, making "shading" of the flash light easy with it - but
early Vivitars had such abrupt illumination roll-off that
attempts at shading with the flash by tilting/turning the
head a bit were generally disastrous. If the SB-600 has
a nice edge shading-off of the light, it may be possible,
with experimentation, to have the flash somewhat stronger
on the sides without problems in the center, and also to
properly match the flash with the ambient light. If you still
wind up with overexposed windows, you should be able
to bring in the properly exposed ones from another image
using a good photo editor (guess how photographers of
large groups get all the people in one photo with their
eyes open and with good expressions these days...;-).
--
David Ruether

http://www.donferrario.com/ruether


  #7  
Old September 17th 07, 11:31 AM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
Wolfgang Weisselberg
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Posts: 5,285
Default Nikon Speedlight SB600

Bruce wrote:

One photo I want to take is of a large country church interior.Last time I
tried the shadow area to left & right of the aisle was a bit underexposed
but the stained glass windows were overexposed. So on my next visit I
propose to (using a tripod) take a couple of shots exposed for the
windows,then the main aisle using my one SB600 fired to left then right
(exposure was around 30 seconds). Then in Elements 4 superimpose the
windows. Is this practicle?


Well, if you use a tripod anyway, you can use HDR
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging
basically using shots of the window, properly exposed, and
shots of the rest, properly exposed[1], blended into one image,
yet retaining details in both.

Alternatively, you can dress in dark clothes and move the
flash closer to the dark parts of the image, firing it there
(pointed away from the camera, and _not_ making yourself
visible as an outline). As long as you don't stay long at
any place or are backlit by flash, you will not be seen in
the resulting image. (This also works with powerful enough
torch lights.)

-Wolfgang

[1] i.e. exposed to the right, but absolutely _not_ clipped,
since you are going to work on them anyway.
 




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