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#31
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
"Ken Hart" wrote in message ... jjs wrote in message ... "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message s.com... Yes, I'm familiar with tube processing, as I use it for sheet film (4x5 & 9x12). For film, it makes a lot of sense to me, at least compared to tray processing, with which I've had little success. (I would prefer tray processing if I weren't such a klutz, since I belive it yields superior results.) Keep your eyes open for those 'canoe' or rocking stainless trays once used for color processing. I ran across three NIB for $5 each. Very good for 8x10" film. And short print runs. I've seen pictures of those things, but never in real life... How do you drain them? Seems to me if you tried to drain from the sides (to follow the canoe analogy, from the gunwales), that it would go all over the place. And from the pictures, it seems as if the ends (the bow and the stern) have a lip that would prevent draining. Thanks! |
#32
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
"Claudio Bonavolta" wrote in message ... Well, "professionals" most probably don't use the single-tray but other more productive techniques (processors, etc Not in the USA. Professional B&W custom printers use trays. |
#33
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
jjs wrote in message ...
"Ken Hart" wrote in message ... \ Keep your eyes open for those 'canoe' or rocking stainless trays once used for color processing. I ran across three NIB for $5 each. Very good for 8x10" film. And short print runs. I've seen pictures of those things, but never in real life... How do you drain them? They have a hole on one side near the top, so all you do is tip it in that direction to empty. You would be right that it would be difficult otherwise because the ends are rounded to contain sloshing chemicals. They also have a nice detent to hold film/paper in place so it does not slosh about loose in the chemicals. If I can find the instructions I will post a scan on a website. |
#34
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
jjs wrote in message ... "Claudio Bonavolta" wrote in message ... Well, "professionals" most probably don't use the single-tray but other more productive techniques (processors, etc Not in the USA. Professional B&W custom printers use trays. If I'm printing a lot of B&W prints, then I'll get out the old stabilization processor, fill it with Polymax in both racks, and run the prints thru three times. But if I'm making some custom B&W's it's nice to use the trays so that I can gently rub an area that needs just a wee bit more developement, or even blot an area with a cotton ball dipped in straight developer. For final wash and dry, I feed the prints into the wash racks of the color processor. |
#35
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
On Feb 22, 9:06 am, wrote:
On Feb 21, 2:08 am, Steven Woody wrote: Dan, 1, What's the dillution you used for developor and fixer? 2, What is your workflow? ( i.e. how many fixing, how many rinses, I mean how you do the one-tray thing step by step ) My method is Very simple and direct; develop, fix. No stop bath and no rinses. Prints after the fix go into a hold and soak tray. I use non-woven polyester sheets to keep the prints separated. The same for the two following soaks. The last soak is overnight. If I were to use D-72 I would make up one liter of working strength by diluting the full strength 1:7. That would be 125ml of stock plus 875ml of water. Use 1/3 of that liter of working strength for each 8x10. Allow 4 minutes of constant agitation for development. Turn the print over upon itself now and then to insure a thorough mixing of the fresh but very dilute solution Thank you very much for your information. Let me know which fixer you use so that I can suggest a dilution. I use sodium thiosulfate pure and simple. It is a dry concentrate which will keep for many years. I mix fresh fixer just prior to use. I interested what you said pure hypo fixer and like to use it if possible. Here are two questions about it: 1, How to mix it? ( in what temperature and what dillution ) 2, It looks like Adams's plain fixer. What's the difference between them? And, because I still have one or two bottle of Ilford's rapid fixer. If i want to use it, can you suggest a usage for me? Thanks. BTW, if you are testing using 5x7 use 140ml of that dilute D-72. Dan |
#36
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
"Ken Hart" wrote in message ... "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message s.com... On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus: Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have some suggested brands? Thanks again. Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need the drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.) With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have one, no way am I giving it up! I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one side and set a container there to stop it from going further. The processor I have uses a motor driven arm that goves back-and-forth as well as the circular motion. In this way, it gets the chemicals moving from end to end in the drum as well as circulating the picture. Also, the drum attaches to the arm via a magnet, so hook ups are quick, so your timings stay consistent. It's a great system. Take Care, Dudley |
#37
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
"Lawrence Akutagawa" wrote in message t... I've heard of some folks placing large rubber bands around both ends of the drum close to the rollers to keep the drum from drifting. Dunno myself - I do the manual rolling back and forth, varying the angle and duration of the rolls. "Ken Hart" wrote in message ... "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message s.com... On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus: Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have some suggested brands? Thanks again. Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need the drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.) With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have one, no way am I giving it up! I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one side and set a container there to stop it from going further. The first time I used a drum, I just rolled it back and forth on a countertop, switching the tank end for end every so often. It wasn't ideal, but it worked. Take Care, Dudley |
#38
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one side and set a container there to stop it from going further. Try placing a flat rubber band around the cylinder, to the inside of one wheel and outside of the other (if there is room on the outside) so that there is about 1/8" to 1/4" room for movement. Mine walks, then walks back. |
#39
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
In article r7Yvj.40484$w57.25161@edtnps90,
"Dudley Hanks" wrote: "Ken Hart" wrote in message ... "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message s.com... On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus: Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have some suggested brands? Thanks again. Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need the drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.) With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have one, no way am I giving it up! I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one side and set a container there to stop it from going further. The processor I have uses a motor driven arm that goves back-and-forth as well as the circular motion. In this way, it gets the chemicals moving from end to end in the drum as well as circulating the picture. Also, the drum attaches to the arm via a magnet, so hook ups are quick, so your timings stay consistent. It's a great system. Take Care, Dudley Its a Jobo -- Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back. |
#40
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Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing
On Feb 22, 6:04*am, Steven Woody wrote:
Dan, 1, What's the dillution you used for developor and fixer? 2, What is your workflow? *( i.e. how many fixing, how many rinses, I mean how you do the one-tray thing step by step ) * *My method is Very simple and direct; develop, fix. No stop bath and no rinses. Prints after the fix go into a hold and soak tray. I use non-woven polyester sheets to keep the prints separated. The same for the two following soaks. The last soak is overnight. * *If I were to use D-72 I would make up one liter of working strength by diluting the full strength 1:7. That would be 125ml of stock plus 875ml of water. Use 1/3 of that liter of working strength for each 8x10. Allow 4 minutes of constant agitation for development. Turn the print over upon itself now and then to insure a thorough mixing of the fresh but very dilute solution Thank you very much for your information. * *Let me know which fixer you use so that I can suggest a dilution. I use sodium thiosulfate pure and simple. It is a dry concentrate which will keep for many years. I mix fresh fixer just prior to use. I interested what you said pure hypo fixer and like to use it if possible. Here are two questions about it: 1, How to mix it? ( in what temperature and what dillution ) 2, It looks like Adams's plain fixer. What's the difference between them? If I were to mix enough fix for 3 8x10s I would dissolve 18 grams of sodium thiosulfate anhydrous to make 1 liter. Then use 1/3 of that liter for each 8x10. That strength of fix will fix Kentmere Bromide paper; a paper which takes more fix than a few other papers I've tested. I use fresh fixer prepared at time of use so have no need for preservative; the sulfite Adams added to his Plain Fixers. My print sessions are short. If yours are protracted then a little sulfite may be a good idea. And, because I still have one or two bottle of Ilford's rapid fixer. If i want to use it, can you suggest a usage for me? Thanks. To make a liter good for 3 8x10s include 30ml of the concentrate. Plain or Rapid fix allow 4 minutes with constant agitation. Now and then turn the print over upon itself back to front and right to left. Both developer and fixer are very dilute. A second fix is superfuless. A single use of a very dilute fix does not build up any harmful amount of dissolved silver. In fact silver levels are well within archival levels. Further more the amount of very dilute developer carried into the fixer is too little to be of any bother. Skip the stop. Any more questions? I don't recommend my method for all darkroom work. If you've a small darkroom and the work volume is modest it's a very good way to go. Like I've said, single-tray use is similar to single tube processing, one-shot or save for the next print. I though have enough dark area for tray processing and seeing what is happening. Dan |
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