A Photography forum. PhotoBanter.com

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » PhotoBanter.com forum » General Photography » In The Darkroom
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old February 22nd 08, 03:00 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing


"Ken Hart" wrote in message
...

jjs wrote in message ...

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...

Yes, I'm familiar with tube processing, as I use it for sheet film (4x5
& 9x12). For film, it makes a lot of sense to me, at least compared to
tray processing, with which I've had little success. (I would prefer
tray processing if I weren't such a klutz, since I belive it yields
superior results.)


Keep your eyes open for those 'canoe' or rocking stainless trays once
used for color processing. I ran across three NIB for $5 each. Very good
for 8x10" film. And short print runs.


I've seen pictures of those things, but never in real life...
How do you drain them? Seems to me if you tried to drain from the sides
(to follow the canoe analogy, from the gunwales), that it would go all
over the place. And from the pictures, it seems as if the ends (the bow
and the stern) have a lip that would prevent draining.
Thanks!




  #32  
Old February 22nd 08, 03:02 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing


"Claudio Bonavolta" wrote in message
...

Well, "professionals" most probably don't use the single-tray but
other more productive techniques (processors, etc


Not in the USA. Professional B&W custom printers use trays.


  #33  
Old February 22nd 08, 04:09 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing

jjs wrote in message ...

"Ken Hart" wrote in message
...

\ Keep your eyes open for those 'canoe' or rocking stainless trays once
used for color processing. I ran across three NIB for $5 each. Very
good for 8x10" film. And short print runs.


I've seen pictures of those things, but never in real life...
How do you drain them?


They have a hole on one side near the top, so all you do is tip it in that
direction to empty. You would be right that it would be difficult otherwise
because the ends are rounded to contain sloshing chemicals. They also have a
nice detent to hold film/paper in place so it does not slosh about loose in
the chemicals. If I can find the instructions I will post a scan on a
website.


  #34  
Old February 22nd 08, 05:29 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Ken Hart[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 117
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing


jjs wrote in message ...

"Claudio Bonavolta" wrote in message
...

Well, "professionals" most probably don't use the single-tray but
other more productive techniques (processors, etc


Not in the USA. Professional B&W custom printers use trays.


If I'm printing a lot of B&W prints, then I'll get out the old stabilization
processor, fill it with Polymax in both racks, and run the prints thru three
times. But if I'm making some custom B&W's it's nice to use the trays so
that I can gently rub an area that needs just a wee bit more developement,
or even blot an area with a cotton ball dipped in straight developer.
For final wash and dry, I feed the prints into the wash racks of the color
processor.


  #35  
Old February 22nd 08, 03:04 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Steven Woody
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 164
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing

On Feb 22, 9:06 am, wrote:
On Feb 21, 2:08 am, Steven Woody wrote:



Dan,


1, What's the dillution you used for developor and fixer?
2, What is your workflow? ( i.e. how many fixing, how
many rinses, I mean how you do the one-tray thing
step by step )


My method is Very simple and direct; develop, fix.
No stop bath and no rinses. Prints after the fix go into
a hold and soak tray. I use non-woven polyester sheets
to keep the prints separated. The same for the two
following soaks. The last soak is overnight.

If I were to use D-72 I would make up one liter of
working strength by diluting the full strength 1:7. That
would be 125ml of stock plus 875ml of water. Use 1/3 of
that liter of working strength for each 8x10. Allow 4 minutes
of constant agitation for development. Turn the print over
upon itself now and then to insure a thorough mixing
of the fresh but very dilute solution


Thank you very much for your information.

Let me know which fixer you use so that I can suggest
a dilution. I use sodium thiosulfate pure and simple. It is
a dry concentrate which will keep for many years. I mix
fresh fixer just prior to use.


I interested what you said pure hypo fixer and like to use it if
possible. Here are two questions about it:

1, How to mix it? ( in what temperature and what dillution )
2, It looks like Adams's plain fixer. What's the difference between
them?

And, because I still have one or two bottle of Ilford's rapid fixer.
If i want to use it, can you suggest a usage for me? Thanks.


BTW, if you are testing using 5x7 use 140ml of that
dilute D-72. Dan


  #36  
Old February 23rd 08, 05:48 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Dudley Hanks
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 457
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing


"Ken Hart" wrote in message
...

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...
On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus:

Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have
some suggested brands? Thanks again.


Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need the
drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.)


With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have
one, no way am I giving it up!

I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it
right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one
side and set a container there to stop it from going further.

The processor I have uses a motor driven arm that goves back-and-forth as
well as the circular motion. In this way, it gets the chemicals moving from
end to end in the drum as well as circulating the picture.

Also, the drum attaches to the arm via a magnet, so hook ups are quick, so
your timings stay consistent.

It's a great system.

Take Care,
Dudley



  #37  
Old February 23rd 08, 05:54 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Dudley Hanks
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 457
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing


"Lawrence Akutagawa" wrote in message
t...
I've heard of some folks placing large rubber bands around both ends of
the drum close to the rollers to keep the drum from drifting. Dunno
myself - I do the manual rolling back and forth, varying the angle and
duration of the rolls.

"Ken Hart" wrote in message
...

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...
On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus:

Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have
some suggested brands? Thanks again.

Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need
the drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.)


With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have
one, no way am I giving it up!

I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get
it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to
one side and set a container there to stop it from going further.


The first time I used a drum, I just rolled it back and forth on a
countertop, switching the tank end for end every so often. It wasn't
ideal, but it worked.


Take Care,
Dudley


  #38  
Old February 23rd 08, 06:50 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing


I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get
it right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to
one side and set a container there to stop it from going further.


Try placing a flat rubber band around the cylinder, to the inside of one
wheel and outside of the other (if there is room on the outside) so that
there is about 1/8" to 1/4" room for movement.

Mine walks, then walks back.


  #39  
Old February 23rd 08, 09:44 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
____
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 534
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing

In article r7Yvj.40484$w57.25161@edtnps90,
"Dudley Hanks" wrote:

"Ken Hart" wrote in message
...

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...
On 2/21/2008 7:59 AM Steven Woody spake thus:

Thanks for you advices. How much a print drum will cost? Do you have
some suggested brands? Thanks again.

Beseler/Unicolor. Used. Look on eBay; they're pretty cheap. (You need the
drum and the motor base used to rotate it. Forget doing it by hand.)


With all due respect, you don't NEED a roller base. But now that I have
one, no way am I giving it up!

I have problems with the drum 'walking' to one side or the other as it
rotates. I've tried adjusting the leveling screw, but can't seem to get it
right. Any suggestions? My current solution is to just have it walk to one
side and set a container there to stop it from going further.

The processor I have uses a motor driven arm that goves back-and-forth as
well as the circular motion. In this way, it gets the chemicals moving from
end to end in the drum as well as circulating the picture.

Also, the drum attaches to the arm via a magnet, so hook ups are quick, so
your timings stay consistent.

It's a great system.

Take Care,
Dudley


Its a Jobo

--
Reality is a picture perfected and never looking back.
  #40  
Old February 24th 08, 02:47 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 137
Default Some simple questions about Single-Tray Processing

On Feb 22, 6:04*am, Steven Woody wrote:

Dan,


1, What's the dillution you used for developor and fixer?
2, What is your workflow? *( i.e. how many fixing, how
many rinses, I mean how you do the one-tray thing
step by step )


* *My method is Very simple and direct; develop, fix.
No stop bath and no rinses. Prints after the fix go into
a hold and soak tray. I use non-woven polyester sheets
to keep the prints separated. The same for the two
following soaks. The last soak is overnight.


* *If I were to use D-72 I would make up one liter of
working strength by diluting the full strength 1:7. That
would be 125ml of stock plus 875ml of water. Use 1/3 of
that liter of working strength for each 8x10. Allow 4 minutes
of constant agitation for development. Turn the print over
upon itself now and then to insure a thorough mixing
of the fresh but very dilute solution


Thank you very much for your information.

* *Let me know which fixer you use so that I can suggest
a dilution. I use sodium thiosulfate pure and simple. It is
a dry concentrate which will keep for many years. I mix
fresh fixer just prior to use.


I interested what you said pure hypo fixer and like to use it if
possible. Here are two questions about it:

1, How to mix it? ( in what temperature and what dillution )
2, It looks like Adams's plain fixer. What's the difference
between them?

If I were to mix enough fix for 3 8x10s I would dissolve 18
grams of sodium thiosulfate anhydrous to make 1 liter. Then
use 1/3 of that liter for each 8x10. That strength of fix will fix
Kentmere Bromide paper; a paper which takes more fix
than a few other papers I've tested.
I use fresh fixer prepared at time of use so have no need
for preservative; the sulfite Adams added to his Plain Fixers.
My print sessions are short. If yours are protracted then a
little sulfite may be a good idea.

And, because I still have one or two bottle of Ilford's rapid fixer.
If i want to use it, can you suggest a usage for me? Thanks.

To make a liter good for 3 8x10s include 30ml of the
concentrate. Plain or Rapid fix allow 4 minutes with
constant agitation. Now and then turn the print over
upon itself back to front and right to left. Both
developer and fixer are very dilute.
A second fix is superfuless. A single use of a very dilute
fix does not build up any harmful amount of dissolved silver.
In fact silver levels are well within archival levels.
Further more the amount of very dilute developer carried
into the fixer is too little to be of any bother. Skip the stop.
Any more questions?
I don't recommend my method for all darkroom work. If
you've a small darkroom and the work volume is modest
it's a very good way to go. Like I've said, single-tray use
is similar to single tube processing, one-shot or save
for the next print. I though have enough dark area for
tray processing and seeing what is happening. Dan

 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A Simple Processing Of Color Negs? Alan Smithee In The Darkroom 47 March 31st 05 03:35 AM
Simple advice for a simple photographer wanna be. Kim Digital Photography 4 January 24th 05 01:59 PM
Tray Development Largformat Large Format Photography Equipment 44 October 17th 04 04:19 PM
Tray developing 4x5 - questions Stephan Goldstein In The Darkroom 18 October 15th 04 03:52 AM
Tray processing cut film John McGraw Large Format Photography Equipment 2 September 30th 04 07:59 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 PhotoBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.