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How to use a hand light-meter?
wrote
I just feel reflected metering requires the most "subjective" interpretation as you have to take into account how far from a matte finish gray card your subject is. Depending on the color of the subject, how much sky the meter is seeing and how many clouds are in the sky etc the reading can vary wildly and ends up being a guesstimate at best. Unless for some odd reason I can't get into aprox the same light that is falling on the subject, I always prefer to use incident metering. I agree that it takes more interpretation and multiple readings when using a reflected meter. What I was getting at originally is that in some cases a distant scene may not be in or have the same light quality as that in front of your nose. That's why I will take readings both ways to ensure I've got it right. At $6.50 a pop these days for 4x5 transparency film and processing, I don't want to make a mistake. Howard |
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How to use a hand light-meter?
On Wed, 8 Sep 2010 19:06:45 UTC, Lew wrote:
You're correct about the palm, however I wasn't necessarily referring to white skin, nor have I tested black skin. I just used the trial & error method on my skin and reported the result in my email. You are correct in inferring that I am of Caucasian origin, however I believe that anyone of any race or skin color may use this trial & error method to arrive at an adjustment suitable for their practice as long as they have hands. _____ I have used this very same method to measure reflected light (and inferred incident light) for years. The palm of my left hand reads 1 1/2 stops to 2 stops too high using the built-in camera light meter (Nikon F2/F3), and i set the camera accordingly. Neutral gray card stays at home. It does not matter if the incident light is from direct sun, or cloudy sky. / John -- |
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