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#21
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DSLR for "full auto" shooting of kids? or Point-and-shoot?
["Followup-To:" header set to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems.]
2Bdecided wrote: On 18 Jan, 16:45, Paul Furman wrote: Do you really need zoom for family photos though? It seemed very useful, but I don't know. The idea of changing lenses worries me - I'd break something. Unless you are in the habit of dropping your Ixus, you won't. It's _build_ to be used. The reason I ask is a fixed length fast 'prime' lens is really ideal for kids & indoor family shooting: you can shoot without any flash at all and capture the ambiance much better and you can get a faster shutter speed for herky-jerky little kids. This is something I'm interested in. Let's say a given amount of light (indoors, night, normal-ish lighting) meant the zoom lens needed ISO 1600 and 1/100th. I have no idea what aperture. The zoom lens would probably have ca. f/4 (short end) or f/5.6 (towards long end) as fastest aperture. The result would be noisy, of course. What ISO could I come down to with a fast fixed length lens, still at 1/100th, for a comparably bright picture, with hopefully much less noise? If the lens is f/2.0 or better (e.g. Canon 50mm f/1.8, ~ USD100 IIRC, optically sound but all plastics), ISO 400 or ISO 200. If the lens is f1.4 or better (e.g. Canon 50mm f/1.4, Sigma 30mm f/1.4, ...), ISO 200 or ISO 100. -Wolfgang |
#22
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DSLR for "full auto" shooting of kids? or Point-and-shoot?
["Followup-To:" header set to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems.]
2Bdecided wrote: On 18 Jan, 13:09, "Allowa" . wrote: No point and shoot will compare to a dslr for picture quality but they are big and if that doesn't suit then there are plenty of alternatives. The link below will give you everything about canon you want to know.http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...ad.php?t=42034 Thanks, fascinating. Lots to read! P.s. The viewfinder is better for getting sharp pictures Even if I don't plan to focus them myself? A viewfinder has no lag. A monitor has the read sensor-interpret- convert-display cycle, which you'll see if you turn with the camera: the monitor lags behind. AF is also faster and more accurate if you do not have to flip up the mirror (there are a very few cameras that have a secondary sensor for life view), because for AF you either have to flip down the mirror again or you have to use contrast based AF (compact camera type) instead of phase shift AF (SLR type). The viewfinder also works when any monitor will only show grain and noise due to a lack of light. -Wolfgang |
#23
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DSLR for "full auto" shooting of kids? or Point-and-shoot?
2Bdecided wrote:
We hated... * after lots of continuous shooting, the flash suddenly needed a very long time to recover, and became very sluggish Try an external flash (or, if you want to go all out, several units, remote controlled from the master on the camera). Try indirect flash (flash directed at the ceiling or walls), it looks 10 times better than just direct flash[1] * having to look through a view finder - I know that's intrinsic to how almost all DSLRs work, but we really missed the live view on the LCD You'll get used to it. We also missed the Canon Zoom Browser software, which we use to automatically download the photos from the camera, spin them around, and sort them into dated folders. There are many other tools that can do that --- and personally, I use a card reader, worth USD10, much faster than the camera. The supplied lens maybe wasn't pixel sharp, but it was better than what we were used to. Almost all fixed focal length lenses beat almost all zooms in image quality. So, my question is, if I'm to take the leap into the world of DSLR, what should I consider? I've looked at the Canon 400D and Nikon D40X on dpreview. Both are OK. These reviews don't seem to focus on what I really care about - they didn't mention the fantastic lack of red eye, With an external flash, that's even much better --- and with indirect flash, there's sort of no chance of a problem. But generally, you shouldn't have to worry much. or the annoying flash recycle time problem with the 400D for example. Here also an external unit may help. How am I to learn about these things before buying the camera? I don't want to make an expensive mistake. Ask your local dealer. Try the camera out. Rent the camera first. So many ways. I can't imagine wanting to change lenses. The idea of exposing the sensor to dust doesn't appeal anyway! Dust is a minor problem --- and any lens that extends in length has to move air in and out, so you expose the sensor anyway. Do not worry over dust, worry about dropping the camera. Always put the strap round your neck. I have had my camera for 3 years, I change lenses whenever I use the camera, I am not really careful about dust. I have had to blow out some dust maybe 4 times, and had to do one wet cleaning. Counting all the times together, that's maybe 2 or 3 hours and no problems. Alternatively, if there's a point-and-shoot which can match the speed None. and safe exposure You can always set the exposure control to -1/3 or -2/3rds or a stop. of the 400D, and yet still fit in my pocket and show me everything on an LCD, I'd like to hear about it. You'd be back to red eyes. -Wolfgang [1] You can add some direct flash light to e.g. get that reflecting 'gleam' into the eye --- that works even with a single flash unit if you point it at the ceiling and have a small bit of paper (or an inbuild reflector) reflect a small part of the light directly from the flash. |
#24
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DSLR for "full auto" shooting of kids? or Point-and-shoot?
Wolfgang Weisselberg wrote:
The viewfinder also works when any monitor will only show grain and noise due to a lack of light. Actually live view is nice in the dark, it brightens things up. |
#25
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DSLR for "full auto" shooting of kids? or Point-and-shoot?
Paul Furman wrote:
Wolfgang Weisselberg wrote: The viewfinder also works when any monitor will only show grain and noise due to a lack of light. Actually live view is nice in the dark, it brightens things up. Try that at LV 0 or LV -5 or less ... -Wolfgang |
#26
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DSLR for "full auto" shooting of kids? or Point-and-shoot?
Wolfgang Weisselberg wrote:
Paul Furman wrote: Wolfgang Weisselberg wrote: The viewfinder also works when any monitor will only show grain and noise due to a lack of light. Actually live view is nice in the dark, it brightens things up. Try that at LV 0 or LV -5 or less ... I have an awfully hard time focusing in the dark with an optical viewfinder. |
#27
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DSLR for "full auto" shooting of kids? or Point-and-shoot?
Paul Furman wrote:
Wolfgang Weisselberg wrote: Paul Furman wrote: Wolfgang Weisselberg wrote: The viewfinder also works when any monitor will only show grain and noise due to a lack of light. Actually live view is nice in the dark, it brightens things up. Try that at LV 0 or LV -5 or less ... I have an awfully hard time focusing in the dark with an optical viewfinder. But no problems at all on a black live view with nothing but grain on it, right? -Wolfgang |
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