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#1
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delta3200 with rodinal: ok but takes a little bit longer than 11 minutes
hi all.
yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal. i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent. i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone, but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll "sacrify" a film for a deeper test. a friend of mine insists that with rodinal you can deeply modify contrast and grain of the film and says that going to 19 --or even a bit less-- degrees and increasing development time by 30% would give far better results as grain and contrast --with fast films--. perhaps next time i'll give this a try. chances are also that this wednesday evening i'll develop delta3200's @12500 with t-max developer --the ones we've been talking about some weeks ago--. i'll let you know the results on friday. i hope i'll start printing soon --i still miss a red safe filter for enlarger lenses: my enlargers were used for color prints and have no safelight filter at the moment--. regards, -- Gianni Rondinini Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it Tel: +39 0545 78036 Fax: +39 0545 78727 |
#2
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On 4/4/2005 7:56 AM Gianni Rondinini spake thus:
yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal. i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent. 6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do is coat the film so the water film covers it all over. i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone, but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll "sacrify" a film for a deeper test. "Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped (or overexposed). If the film seems too light, then you may want to try more development. -- "I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon." - Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by the late Hunter S. Thompson |
#3
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On 4/4/2005 7:56 AM Gianni Rondinini spake thus:
yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal. i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent. 6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do is coat the film so the water film covers it all over. i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone, but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll "sacrify" a film for a deeper test. "Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped (or overexposed). If the film seems too light, then you may want to try more development. -- "I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon." - Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by the late Hunter S. Thompson |
#4
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Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film
with a true film speed of 1000-1200 instead of 3200. Therefore you want a developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this. Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200. On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 16:56:25 +0200, Gianni Rondinini wrote: hi all. yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal. i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent. i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone, but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll "sacrify" a film for a deeper test. a friend of mine insists that with rodinal you can deeply modify contrast and grain of the film and says that going to 19 --or even a bit less-- degrees and increasing development time by 30% would give far better results as grain and contrast --with fast films--. perhaps next time i'll give this a try. chances are also that this wednesday evening i'll develop delta3200's @12500 with t-max developer --the ones we've been talking about some weeks ago--. i'll let you know the results on friday. i hope i'll start printing soon --i still miss a red safe filter for enlarger lenses: my enlargers were used for color prints and have no safelight filter at the moment--. regards, |
#5
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Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film
with a true film speed of 1000-1200 instead of 3200. Therefore you want a developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this. Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200. On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 16:56:25 +0200, Gianni Rondinini wrote: hi all. yesterday evening i developed 2 of my delta3200's with rodinal. i used rodinal 1+25, 20°c. then i fixed for 8 minutes with ornano rapid fixer and the usual 6/7 minutes in agepon, agfa's wetting agent. i must say the negatives show a good contrast and a reasonable tone, but i think that overdeveloping at least 1 minute may give better results, because the film seems a little bit dark to me. i'll "sacrify" a film for a deeper test. a friend of mine insists that with rodinal you can deeply modify contrast and grain of the film and says that going to 19 --or even a bit less-- degrees and increasing development time by 30% would give far better results as grain and contrast --with fast films--. perhaps next time i'll give this a try. chances are also that this wednesday evening i'll develop delta3200's @12500 with t-max developer --the ones we've been talking about some weeks ago--. i'll let you know the results on friday. i hope i'll start printing soon --i still miss a red safe filter for enlarger lenses: my enlargers were used for color prints and have no safelight filter at the moment--. regards, |
#6
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On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 11:09:54 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote: 6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do well, after reading your post i read the sticker on the agepon bottle and saw that it says "30"-1'" i wasn't in a hurry to remove the film from the wetting agent and used to leave it there while i washed the tank and something else. "Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped (or overexposed). ok, i wrote it the wrong way, but got the point. i said sacrifice meaning that i won't use a roll of "meaningful" photos to do some experiments. usually i shot some still life to do my experiments with films and everything else: a meaningless film can be sacrified to understand where i'm missing somethings. thank you. -- Gianni Rondinini Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it Tel: +39 0545 78036 Fax: +39 0545 78727 |
#7
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On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 11:09:54 -0700, David Nebenzahl
wrote: 6-7 minutes? Why on earth would you do that? You need 30 seconds max. with any wetting agent, whether Agepon, Photo-Flo or dish detergent. All you need to do well, after reading your post i read the sticker on the agepon bottle and saw that it says "30"-1'" i wasn't in a hurry to remove the film from the wetting agent and used to leave it there while i washed the tank and something else. "Sacrifice"? But surely you meant to say that _underdeveloping_ may give better results, because if the film seems a bit dark, then it's overdeveloped (or overexposed). ok, i wrote it the wrong way, but got the point. i said sacrifice meaning that i won't use a roll of "meaningful" photos to do some experiments. usually i shot some still life to do my experiments with films and everything else: a meaningless film can be sacrified to understand where i'm missing somethings. thank you. -- Gianni Rondinini Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it Tel: +39 0545 78036 Fax: +39 0545 78727 |
#8
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On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:10:44 GMT, pgg
wrote: Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film i thought they were. after one day of drying the films seemed nice, but i haven't printed them yet. developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this. ok, i understand. Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200. but *impossible* to find in italy. i even thought that it was discontinued. i can find tmax and xtol, if they may be better. regards, -- Gianni Rondinini Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it Tel: +39 0545 78036 Fax: +39 0545 78727 |
#9
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On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 23:10:44 GMT, pgg
wrote: Rodinal and Delta3200 aren't a good match. The latter is a grainy film i thought they were. after one day of drying the films seemed nice, but i haven't printed them yet. developer that extracts as much shadow detail (or film speed) as possible and dissolves grain. Rodinal does _not_ do this. ok, i understand. Ilford Microphen is a good match with Delta3200. but *impossible* to find in italy. i even thought that it was discontinued. i can find tmax and xtol, if they may be better. regards, -- Gianni Rondinini Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it Tel: +39 0545 78036 Fax: +39 0545 78727 |
#10
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On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 14:04:59 GMT, PGG
wrote: This probably means 30 parts water to 1 part Agepon. Make sure it is no, it's the time suggested for tratment... as diluition, i work at the recommended 1+200. never used distilled water, but i'll give it a chance. thank you. regards, -- Gianni Rondinini Icem s.r.l. - http://www.icem.it Tel: +39 0545 78036 Fax: +39 0545 78727 |
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