I've settled on PyroCat-MC as my main developer, especially with
medium format and this combo is very nice with HP5+. I've been a
darkroom rat for 40+ years and always maintained some "go-to"
combinations when things needed to be predictable and absolutely give
usable results. I also played with many films and developers because
it kept my interest and imagination stirred up. As I've gotten older
and tinker less, I've appreciated the PyroCat variants because of 3
primary reasons:

1. Superb highlight control.... It virtually eliminates clipping and
allows me to have great shadow detail and not fear blown highlights.
Most films behave predictably at 1/2 box speed as a great starting
point and exhibit this basic behavior.

2. Great skin tones. People pictures just seem to print themselves
with a beautiful tone spread that gives a 3D effect and depth to
faces. Its sharpness and edge effects make eyelashes pop but somehow
is also kind to crows' feet, etc.

3. It solved most of my scanning headaches. The tonal range depicted
and smooth grain characteristics are especially compatible with
scanner's rendition with very little of that grain scatter appearance.
The edge effects aid in adding an apparent sharpness that translates
well in the digital process.

Over the years, I've had good success and a good understanding of most
of Ilford's films, Fuji and many of Kodak's. I started with D-76 and
still respect it as a great soup that one could happily use forever
and give up very little to anything else in general duties. FG-7 was
a favorite for many years and I also enjoyed DDX following that. XTOL
and the new TMY-2 seem made for each other, too. I only mention these
details so you don't think I'm a Pyro fanatic who's been to the
mountaintop!

The process is also easy and streamlined... I use a 1 minute initial
slow inversions cycle, followed by 1 gentle inversion per minute
(seems to add a bit of edge effect without getting exaggerated).
Follow with a double water rinse (no stop bath) and then fixing in
TF-4. Following washing and a drop or 2 of wetting agents, they also
seem to sheet off and dry spot free, too. Some films show some
emulsion expansion (sort of a frosty look with bright back light) and
some show an etching/raised effect on the emulsion side but they seem
to settle down after drying.

I wish someone would have promoted giving it a try earlier in my
darkroom escapades. I would encourage giving it a shot. A neutral or
alkaline fixer can aid in keeping the stain effect consistent with
Pyro (they're effective and pleasant to use anyway).