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D7000 Liveview switch
"Ian" wrote:
The manual at http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manu...2/D7000_EN.pdf doesn't mention a lock. See pages 49 and 53. Hi Ian, yes thanks. I guess he switch must be faulty. Pity, as I'm a considerable distance from a repair shop. -- Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l |
D7000 Liveview switch
"Nige Danton" wrote in message
... : "Ian" wrote: : : The manual at : http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manu...2/D7000_EN.pdf : doesn't mention a lock. See pages 49 and 53. : : Hi Ian, yes thanks. I guess he switch must be faulty. Pity, as I'm a : considerable distance from a repair shop. : : -- : Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l Hello Nigel. These switches are small and it might be that the mechanism is binding/jammed and that moving it gently and slightly in different directions might free it. I've found this with other small switches where the switch mechanism has very little leeway in movement for it to bind. I suspect they are much more of a compromise, mechanically, than switches of a larger size. The inbuilt flash of my DSLR had problems for a while and needed a push to pop up (this had to be a prompt push otherwise the camera would decide that the flash was faulty and go into fault mode). After a while the flash settled down in its pivots and is now back in normal working order. Best wishes, Ian. --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
D7000 Liveview switch
"Ian" wrote:
Hello Nigel. These switches are small and it might be that the mechanism is binding/jammed and that moving it gently and slightly in different directions might free it. I've found this with other small switches where the switch mechanism has very little leeway in movement for it to bind. I suspect they are much more of a compromise, mechanically, than switches of a larger size. The inbuilt flash of my DSLR had problems for a while and needed a push to pop up (this had to be a prompt push otherwise the camera would decide that the flash was faulty and go into fault mode). After a while the flash settled down in its pivots and is now back in normal working order. Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro photography. Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have), tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. -- Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l |
D7000 Liveview switch
On 12/27/2014 7:38 PM, Nige Danton wrote:
"Ian" wrote: Hello Nigel. These switches are small and it might be that the mechanism is binding/jammed and that moving it gently and slightly in different directions might free it. I've found this with other small switches where the switch mechanism has very little leeway in movement for it to bind. I suspect they are much more of a compromise, mechanically, than switches of a larger size. The inbuilt flash of my DSLR had problems for a while and needed a push to pop up (this had to be a prompt push otherwise the camera would decide that the flash was faulty and go into fault mode). After a while the flash settled down in its pivots and is now back in normal working order. Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro photography. Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have), tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. Welcome to the macro world. When I don't use a macro lens, I also use extension tubes for my macro work. Just a few hints. I rarely use autofocus. I find that using liveview for focusing is a real PITA, especially outdoors. (YMMV) The above are just my macro preferences. More importantly, many lenses will have noticable diffraction at the smallest aperature. You might want to check the manufacturers website. Not every image needs to be, or should be sharp in all areas. You can use partial image blur creatively. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/1%20Needs%20A%20Shower.jpg -- PeterN |
D7000 Liveview switch
"Nige Danton" wrote in message ... : Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and : is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it : in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro : photography. : : Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject : than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have), : tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), : and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using : all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light : on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. : : -- : Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l : Hello again Nige. That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam will hopefully not happen again. Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out. May I suggest a couple of things? 1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll probably use f6.3-8. 2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension tube despite the resulting image not being as large. More tubes = dimmer viewfinder. Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and see what differences you can see. I used this technique when deciding whether to buy a 150-500mm lens or keep my 70-300mm lens. When I used these lenses at the long end (500mm and 300mm respectively) and zoomed into the images so they were the same size I found that the images from the 70-300mm were sharper and had better contrast than those from the 150-500mm lens. The tests saved me from buying the bulky and heavy 150-500mm lens. I have a 60mm macro lens (approx 96mm on my APS-C DSLR) which I use for macro work in my garden (flowers and insects). I don't take it on holiday so use my 15-85mm for macro work and the results are not at all bad. The 60mm lens is a luxury and one I would not have bought at new price. I bought it second-hand from a dealer I can trust (LCE in Nottingham and Derby). Have fun. Best wishes, Ian. --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
D7000 Liveview switch
On 12/28/2014 10:27 AM, Ian wrote:
"Nige Danton" wrote in message ... : Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and : is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it : in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro : photography. : : Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject : than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have), : tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), : and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using : all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light : on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. : : -- : Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l : Hello again Nige. That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam will hopefully not happen again. Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out. May I suggest a couple of things? 1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll probably use f6.3-8. 2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension tube despite the resulting image not being as large. More tubes = dimmer viewfinder. Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and see what differences you can see. That depends on the lens. I use my 70-200 and have put all three tubes, and it gives me crisp images. Some lenses are not designed for close up, or macro work. Others, such as my 200mm micro IIRC I have put five tubes on, with no loss of image quality. However, the lens gives terrible images at distances greater than 10', although it focuses to infinity. I used this technique when deciding whether to buy a 150-500mm lens or keep my 70-300mm lens. When I used these lenses at the long end (500mm and 300mm respectively) and zoomed into the images so they were the same size I found that the images from the 70-300mm were sharper and had better contrast than those from the 150-500mm lens. The tests saved me from buying the bulky and heavy 150-500mm lens. I have a 60mm macro lens (approx 96mm on my APS-C DSLR) which I use for macro work in my garden (flowers and insects). I don't take it on holiday so use my 15-85mm for macro work and the results are not at all bad. The 60mm lens is a luxury and one I would not have bought at new price. I bought it second-hand from a dealer I can trust (LCE in Nottingham and Derby). -- PeterN |
D7000 Liveview switch
In article , PeterN
wrote: On 12/28/2014 10:27 AM, Ian wrote: "Nige Danton" wrote in message -september .org... : Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff : and : is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it : in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try : macro : photography. : : Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the : subject : than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have), : tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), : and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using : all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough : light : on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. : : -- : Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l : Hello again Nige. That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam will hopefully not happen again. Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out. May I suggest a couple of things? 1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll probably use f6.3-8. 2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension tube despite the resulting image not being as large. More tubes = dimmer viewfinder. Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and see what differences you can see. That depends on the lens. I use my 70-200 and have put all three tubes, and it gives me crisp images. Some lenses are not designed for close up, or macro work. Others, such as my 200mm micro IIRC I have put five tubes on, with no loss of image quality. However, the lens gives terrible images at distances greater than 10', although it focuses to infinity. It's the med Nikkor 200mm 5.6, right? That lens is designed for closeup work in institutions and the infinity setting is really a freebie, sort of... You really should use bellows and a tripod instead of extension tubes with that thingie! I used this technique when deciding whether to buy a 150-500mm lens or keep my 70-300mm lens. When I used these lenses at the long end (500mm and 300mm respectively) and zoomed into the images so they were the same size I found that the images from the 70-300mm were sharper and had better contrast than those from the 150-500mm lens. The tests saved me from buying the bulky and heavy 150-500mm lens. I have a 60mm macro lens (approx 96mm on my APS-C DSLR) which I use for macro work in my garden (flowers and insects). I don't take it on holiday so use my 15-85mm for macro work and the results are not at all bad. The 60mm lens is a luxury and one I would not have bought at new price. I bought it second-hand from a dealer I can trust (LCE in Nottingham and Derby). -- teleportation kills |
D7000 Liveview switch
You might try a sparing application of some contac/control cleaner and
lubricant. AKA tuner cleaner back in the day of the mechanical rotary TV tuners. This was useful in helping cure then main switch issues associated with aging Nikon CP-990s and similar cameras. Remember to block off the viewfinder if using auto exposure with liveview. On Sun, 28 Dec 2014 00:38:25 +0000 (UTC), Nige Danton wrote: Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff and is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try macro photography. Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the subject than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have), tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough light on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. |
D7000 Liveview switch
On 12/28/2014 11:24 AM, android wrote:
In article , PeterN wrote: On 12/28/2014 10:27 AM, Ian wrote: "Nige Danton" wrote in message -september .org... : Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff : and : is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used it : in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try : macro : photography. : : Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the : subject : than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I have), : tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), : and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am using : all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough : light : on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. : : -- : Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l : Hello again Nige. That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam will hopefully not happen again. Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out. May I suggest a couple of things? 1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll probably use f6.3-8. 2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension tube despite the resulting image not being as large. More tubes = dimmer viewfinder. Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and see what differences you can see. That depends on the lens. I use my 70-200 and have put all three tubes, and it gives me crisp images. Some lenses are not designed for close up, or macro work. Others, such as my 200mm micro IIRC I have put five tubes on, with no loss of image quality. However, the lens gives terrible images at distances greater than 10', although it focuses to infinity. It's the med Nikkor 200mm 5.6, right? That lens is designed for closeup work in institutions and the infinity setting is really a freebie, sort of... You really should use bellows and a tripod instead of extension tubes with that thingie! Nope: It's an f4, manual focus. The lens cap is 52mm. To give you an idea of its age, I bought it used over 35 years ago. I often use it on a tripod. I sold my bellows because I did not like working with them. I used this technique when deciding whether to buy a 150-500mm lens or keep my 70-300mm lens. When I used these lenses at the long end (500mm and 300mm respectively) and zoomed into the images so they were the same size I found that the images from the 70-300mm were sharper and had better contrast than those from the 150-500mm lens. The tests saved me from buying the bulky and heavy 150-500mm lens. I have a 60mm macro lens (approx 96mm on my APS-C DSLR) which I use for macro work in my garden (flowers and insects). I don't take it on holiday so use my 15-85mm for macro work and the results are not at all bad. The 60mm lens is a luxury and one I would not have bought at new price. I bought it second-hand from a dealer I can trust (LCE in Nottingham and Derby). -- PeterN |
D7000 Liveview switch
In article , PeterN
wrote: On 12/28/2014 11:24 AM, android wrote: In article , PeterN wrote: On 12/28/2014 10:27 AM, Ian wrote: "Nige Danton" wrote in message -septemb er .org... : Coincidentally, it's partially freed itself now. It's still very stiff : and : is slow to return, but at least it's sort-of working. I've rarely used : it : in the past but I've recently bought a set of extension tubes to try : macro : photography. : : Switching topics to macro: it's much (much) harder to focus on the : subject : than I'd anticipated. My set up is an 18-105 lens (the only lens I : have), : tripod, aperture priority (smallest f-stop to maximise the depth of field), : and outdoors. I'm just experimenting with flowers right now and am : using : all three extension tubes. One of the difficulties is getting enough : light : on the subject. All that said, it's good fun. : : -- : Nige Danton - Replace the obvious with g.m.a.i.l : Hello again Nige. That's good news on the switch and it is what I hoped would happen. The jam will hopefully not happen again. Macrophotography is good fun but has its challenges as you are finding out. May I suggest a couple of things? 1) Using the smallest aperture makes sense for depth of field but lenses usually perform best when stopped down only 2-3 stops from fully open. For example, when I use aperture priority with my 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 lens I'll probably use f6.3-8. 2) You may find it easier to take photos if you use only one extension tube despite the resulting image not being as large. More tubes = dimmer viewfinder. Try using all three tubes then try using one tube. Load the images onto your computer and compare the images after zooming so they are the same size and see what differences you can see. That depends on the lens. I use my 70-200 and have put all three tubes, and it gives me crisp images. Some lenses are not designed for close up, or macro work. Others, such as my 200mm micro IIRC I have put five tubes on, with no loss of image quality. However, the lens gives terrible images at distances greater than 10', although it focuses to infinity. It's the med Nikkor 200mm 5.6, right? That lens is designed for closeup work in institutions and the infinity setting is really a freebie, sort of... You really should use bellows and a tripod instead of extension tubes with that thingie! Nope: It's an f4, manual focus. The lens cap is 52mm. To give you an idea of its age, I bought it used over 35 years ago. I often use it on a tripod. I sold my bellows because I did not like working with them. Oki... I used this technique when deciding whether to buy a 150-500mm lens or keep my 70-300mm lens. When I used these lenses at the long end (500mm and 300mm respectively) and zoomed into the images so they were the same size I found that the images from the 70-300mm were sharper and had better contrast than those from the 150-500mm lens. The tests saved me from buying the bulky and heavy 150-500mm lens. I have a 60mm macro lens (approx 96mm on my APS-C DSLR) which I use for macro work in my garden (flowers and insects). I don't take it on holiday so use my 15-85mm for macro work and the results are not at all bad. The 60mm lens is a luxury and one I would not have bought at new price. I bought it second-hand from a dealer I can trust (LCE in Nottingham and Derby). -- teleportation kills |
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