Photography - Same subject at different apertures

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Same subject at different apertures

What was I thinking, $1,400 for that lens, jeeze I wish. $2,900 is what the
price is.
On 12/3/04 2:35 PM, in article , "Bunyip"
wrote:

Does anyone have an online album of the same subject at different apertures.
I am wanting to see the difference between f2.8, 3.5, 4, 5.6. The reason
behind my curiousity is that I'm trying to figure out if it is worth my
while spending AUD1,400 on a faster zoom lens. The Canon 70-200mm F2.8 is
the one I have my eye on.

Many Thanks

Bunyip

Same subject at different apertures

Does anyone have an online album of the same subject at different
apertures.
I am wanting to see the difference between f2.8, 3.5, 4, 5.6. The reason
behind my curiousity is that I'm trying to figure out if it is worth my
while spending AUD1,400 on a faster zoom lens. The Canon 70-200mm F2.8 is
the one I have my eye on.

comparison images of wide open and closed down are common in basic
photography textbooks. Long lenses wide open have very shallow depth of
field, you can miss focus and end up with an aggravating image of a blurry
face and very sharp ears. Most of your fashion shoots on location use the
technique of a long and large lens wide open as it gives an almost studio
background to the image, a blurry indistinct suggestion of a location
without distracting details.

Same subject at different apertures

Try the Nikon web site. As I remember they had an excellet set of
pictures depicting exactly this subject.

Bunyip wrote in message ...
Does anyone have an online album of the same subject at different apertures.
I am wanting to see the difference between f2.8, 3.5, 4, 5.6. snip

Same subject at different apertures

"zeitgeist" wrote in message news:llc4c.13211$Gm5.44185@attbi_s04...
Most of your fashion shoots on location use the
technique of a long and large lens wide open as it gives an almost studio
background to the image, a blurry indistinct suggestion of a location
without distracting details.

Spot on! Lenses tend to be marked with HYPERFOCALS. That is to say,
the f-stop markings are often printed alongside the focusing ring so
that at, say f/5.6 you can read off the nearest and furthest points
that are "in focus" when you have set the focusing point to the dot.

"In focus" is however, subjective. It will be based upon the "minimum
circle of least confusion" on the NEGATIVE. More enlargement will
produce more blur, but the final decision as to whether detail is
distracting rests with the viewer.

A wide-aperture lens should be chosen
(1) if you often need to soften a distracting background
(2) if you often need to photograph without flash in poor light.

Charles Douglas Wehner

Same subject at different apertures

Bunyip wrote:

Does anyone have an online album of the same subject at different apertures.
I am wanting to see the difference between f2.8, 3.5, 4, 5.6. The reason
behind my curiousity is that I'm trying to figure out if it is worth my
while spending AUD1,400 on a faster zoom lens. The Canon 70-200mm F2.8 is
the one I have my eye on.

Try this one:
http://www.photonhead.com/exposure/simcam.php

--
Angela M. Cable
Neocognition, digital scrapbooking source:
http://www.neocognition.com/

PSP Tutorial Links:
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5th Street Studio, free graphics, websets and mo
http://www.fortunecity.com/westwood/alaia/354/

Same subject at different apertures

Angela, your a star, this is exactly what I was after.

Cheers.

Try this one:
http://www.photonhead.com/exposure/simcam.php

Same subject at different apertures

Bunyip wrote in message ...
Angela, your a star, this is exactly what I was after.

Cheers.

Try this one:
http://www.photonhead.com/exposure/simcam.php

Angela is INDEED a star.

I too looked on the Internet for such a demonstration, but after a
quarter of an hour gave up. I am glad she found it.

For those who are interested in WET-PROCESS photography WITHOUT an
exposure meter, here is my usual trick;

Suppose you have 100 ASA film. Set the shutter to 1/100th or 1/125th.
(With 400 ASA, use 1/400 or 1/500 &c.)

GUESS the "day". For example, a "5.6 DAY". If the light is dimmer than
average, it will be a "4 DAY" or even "2.8 DAY" &c.

Now use that brilliant demonstration.

We have f/5.6 at 1/125.

Try one stop up (shutter), one down (aperture) &c.
f/8 at 1/60
f/11 at 1/30
f/16 at 1/15
f/22 at 1/8

Try one stop down (shutter), one up (aperture) &c.
f/4 at 1/250
f/2.8 at 1/500

That demonstration allows you to see the changing depth-of-field.

You can see how my method reduces the problem of exposure guessing to
a single standard guess - "guess the day". All the above exposures
give the same brightness of image, but with varying timing and depth
of field.

So you can now select from the list the properties you want - fast
shutter for sports, slow shutter for deep focus with static scenes.

DIGITAL cameras are not normally standardised in ASA, because of
automatic changes in the sensitivity. But with experience, one can
force the camera to behave as if it had a particular ASA-type of
gelatine film.

Charles Douglas Wehner

Same subject at different apertures

Kibo informs me that Bunyip stated that:

Angela, your a star, this is exactly what I was after.

grin It's a nifty demo, isn't it? The bit that got a laugh out of me
was that they include simulated blur from camera shake if you shoot at
1/30th or slower. ;)

BTW, if you can afford to buy the Canon 70-200mm F2.8 - get one!
I have a 100-300m f5.6L, which is a great lems, but I could really,
really use the extra two stops I'd get with the F2.8. ;)

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
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